Benetton Unhate campaign | Source: Foto Telegraf

Benetton to make decision on delisting (FT)
“The Benetton family will decide at a board meeting on Wednesday whether to delist the Italian knitwear group known for its brightly coloured jumpers after the company posted another plunge in profits as it struggles to compete with Inditex and H&M.”

Luxury Companies That Can Bring You Closer to the Good Life (Money Morning)
“A lot of consumers are hurting right now, but you wouldn’t know that looking at the earnings of major luxury companies. Many luxury companies like LVMH Moet Hennessey Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Hermès, and Coach Inc had a stronger-than-expected 2011 campaign.”

Bright Young Things (Vogue)
“The British Fashion Council has announced the launch of International Fashion Showcase – a platform for international emerging designers – which will take place during London Fashion Week. Nineteen embassies and cultural institutes across London will display work from over 80 rising designers, spanning the world from Belgium to Botswana.”

The Finnish Fashion Blogger Who Landed A Deal With Diesel (Business Insider)
“Sandra Hagelstam, 24, is the founder of the hot fashion blog 5inchdesandup.com. She started blogging to create a daily log of what she wears… ‘(The blog) has opened up doors for me I never would have imagined in terms of being able to design my own collection and collaborate with others.’”

Divided they stand: the new extremists (Telegraph)
“This may look like a classic case of Roundhead versus Cavalier. Or Minimalist meets Maximalist. But that’s too simplistic.Neither Mary Katrantzou or Osman Yousefzada can be that easily pigeonholed.”

Hermès Flagship, Mumbai | Source: skyscrapercity.com

In our second article this week focused on India, we investigate the barriers impeding the growth of India’s international luxury goods market, which go beyond the recently lifted restrictions on foreign direct investment.

MUMBAI, India — “By the end of 2015, emerging markets should account for more than 50 percent of luxury sales,” Antoine Colonna, a luxury analyst at the asset manager Carmignac Gestion in Paris, told The Wall Street Journal in the spring of 2011. “This isn’t evolution. It’s revolution,” she continued.

But in India, the revolution has yet to take hold. Despite having the world’s second-fastest growing major economy and a rapidly expanding population of high net worth individuals, the country’s market for international luxury goods, worth around $1.3 billion, remains surprisingly small. In fact, while China currently accounts for an estimated 10 percent of the global luxury market, India makes up a mere 1 to 2 percent.

So why has India’s market for international luxury goods failed to take off?

… Continue Reading

Savigny Luxury Index December 2011 | Source: Savigny Partners

LONDON, United Kingdom — While the luxury industry entered 2012 with an overall outlook that remain uncertain, the sector remained resilient.

Big news

• The Savigny Luxury Index (SLI) lost 2.6 percent in December, whilst the general market index MSCI gained 3 percent over the period.  The cause for this divergence was a temporary sell-off in luxury stocks in mid-December.  Two factors contributed to this: the Italian sovereign debt crisis prompting an exodus from Italy-based stocks and the finalisation of Hermès’ defensive structure, which sent its share price down 7 percent in the days following the announcement.

• Despite treacherous capital market conditions, Michael Kors’ listing in New York on 15^th December was a resounding success.  Kors sold more shares than expected, achieving a valuation of close to $4 billion, or 3.8x LTM sales.  Shares jumped 25 percent on their debut and have since climbed a further 8 percent.

• In contrast, the listing of Chinese jeweller Chow Tai Fook in Hong Kong on 9^th December was received with lukewarm interest, which may be attributable to high valuation expectations.

• A Swiss court ruled that Swatch Group can cut down deliveries of watch parts to third parties from next year.  This will create supply issues for a number of watch brands and has already prompted luxury groups such as PPR and LVMH to snap up small watch component manufacturers.

App Icons | Source: Blogversity

Online retailing: The mobile allure (FT)
“The transparency and convenience of ‘mobile commerce’ have given Americans the upper hand over retailers, according to Mr Thompson, who echoes the connect-and-inspire ideology of Silicon Valley when he says: ‘The consumer ultimately holds all the power.’ Indeed, for many traditional retailers, rising competition from the internet has capped sales growth, squeezed profit margins and forced them to re-evaluate how they use their store space.”

LVMH stake in Hermès reaches 22.3 pct (Reuters)
“The world’s biggest luxury group, LVMH, has increased its stake in leather bag maker Hermès to 22.3 percent and now has 16 percent of voting rights, according to a statement from France’s AMF stock market regulator. LVMH, which previously held 21.4 percent of its smaller rival, plans to continue buying Hermès shares ‘according to circumstances and the market situation,’ LVMH said in a filing to the AMF.”

Brand power helps Nike beat estimates (Reuters)
“Nike Inc’s quarterly results beat Wall Street estimates, as its swoosh logo attracted shoppers, especially in emerging markets, despite higher prices. Nike shares were up 3 percent at $96.65 in after-market trade on Tuesday, after closing at $93.63 on the New York Stock Exchange. Worldwide futures orders for the Nike brand, a closely watched measure of demand in coming months, grew 13 percent to $8.9 billion at the end of the quarter.”

Founder with an eye for design (FT)
“One of Mr Totterman’s ideas at the start of the business, was to ask Jean Paul Gaultier, the French fashion designer, if Inspecs could distribute Gaultier-branded spectacles in the UK. ‘At the time we had no design function – we were reliant on other people’s products and we felt we needed a big name if we were to get anywhere. To our surprise [Mr Gaultier] said, ‘Yes.’”

Sophie Theallet on Running a Fashion Business (Thread NY)
“Sophie Theallet worked under masters like Azzedine Alaïa and Jean Paul Gaultier in Paris before decamping to New York City to start her own label, which launched in 2007. Since then, she has racked up acclaim — including the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, which she won in 2009 — and has dressed everyone from Jessica Alba to Michelle Obama.”

Michael Kors | Source: Wall Street Journal

Kors IPO sets US fashion record (FT)
“Michael Kors, an upmarket fashion and accessories brand, has launched the biggest-ever public offering in US fashion, selling more shares than expected in a deal that will value the company at nearly $4bn… The deal was heavily oversubscribed and priced at $20 a share, above the projected range of $17 to $19. Investors in the company sold 47.2m shares, more than the 41m initially offered and raising $944m. The sale valued the company at $3.8bn.”

Hermès family finalises holding to prevent takeover (Reuters)
“The family owners of Hermès said on Wednesday that they had finalised the creation of a holding company with 50.2 percent of the share capital to protect the luxury house from hostile takeover. The creation of the holding, dubbed H51, has been in the works since last autumn when fashion giant LVMH revealed that it had secretly built up a 17 percent stake in Hermès.”

For Fashion Start-Ups, a Bridge to Investors (NY Times)
“Fashion is fickle, making it harder for start-ups to raise capital. But FashInvest, created by David J. Freschman and Karen Griffith Gryga, venture capitalists, is a platform that acts as a kind of matchmaker between seedling fashion companies and investors.”

5 Top Retail Success Stories for 2011 (Forbes)
“Sustainable, savvy, and stylish could best describe the business moves made by certain retailers now winding down the year in stellar fashion.”

Insiders | Susannah Frankel (AnOther)
“Ever since documenting the seminal Fashion-able? shoot by Nick Knight and her close friend, the late Alexander ‘Lee’ McQueen for Dazed’s 1998 issue; Susannah Frankel has forged an ongoing collaboration with Dazed and Confused which led to being appointed as Fashion Features Director of AnOther when it launched in 2000.”