Akris’ discreet charm, PPR invests in The Fancy, Richemont cautious, Nordstrom disappoints, Versace’s bright idea

Albert Kriemler of Akris | Source: Estilo Moda

The Discreet Charm of Akris (WSJ) “Perhaps it is Kriemler’s understated, reluctant approach to anything overt or loud—fashionable or otherwise—that attracts women as powerful and talented as Condoleezza Rice, Angelina Jolie, Susan Sarandon and Nicole Kidman to his clothes… Kriemler works extensively with artisans from Akris’s hometown of St. Gallen. The town is renown in the business for its skilled

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PPR acquires Brioni, H&M and Versace, Boss ups targets, iPad catalog experience, Alber Elbaz’s real drama

Brioni Autumn/Winter 2011 | Source: Luxos

PPR set to buy men’s wear brand Brioni (FT) “PPR, the French luxury goods group, has confirmed it will acquire Brioni, the Italian high end men’s wear group that has dressed Vladimir Putin and the fictional character James Bond in several movie outings. In a statement on Tuesday, PPR said it would be buying 100 per cent of the family owned group for an undisclosed sum… PPR is reorienting and expanding its

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Fashion Week battles, Burberry valuation plummets, Stella keeps it real, H&M focus, Louboutin retrospective

Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2012 | Source: Style.com

Battle of the catwalks as Milan clashes fashion week with London (Telegraph) “Milan has announced that its fashion week next September will overlap those of New York and London, meaning that if no solution can be found, department store buyers and fashion magazine editors would be forced to choose one city over another.” Burberry slumps on fears of end to Asian boom (Guardian) “Shares in the British superbrand Burberry took a

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Looking back with caution, Don’t forget the clothes, H&M’s profits fall, Haulers drive marketing, Cool McQueen

L-R Rick Owens, Balmain, Balenciaga | Source: Style.com

Raid the Archives With Caution (NY Times) “Mr. Ghesquiere can come away refreshed from the Balenciaga archive, but for most designers the postwar couture is an element in the cut-and-paste process that largely defines current fashion. Designers saw the Madame Grès exhibition here this summer; they know Balenciaga’s volumes and bullring pomp by heart. But they always have to do something extreme to make you think it’s

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Going 3-D, Guess’ massive moves in China, Burberry Body, Fast-fashion battle online, Irreverent Carine

Zombie Boy | Source: NY Times

Designers Start to See in Triplicate (NY Times) “With something like 250 runway shows and parties crammed into the New York Fashion Week that begins Sept. 8, a lot of designers are saying that there must be a better way to show clothes, or at least some way to grab people’s attention for more than a second or two. The latest thing, if a handful of them are correct, would be fashion shows in 3-D.” Guess joins the queue

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The Hermès culture, Marc and Vuitton, Sickness spreads in Cambodia H&M factory, Back to the 70s, Zac’s back

Hermès silk printing table by Brigitte Lacomb | Source: WSJ

The Battle for Hermès (WSJ) “‘My job,’ says the lean, formal 44-year-old and sixth-generation descendant of the company’s founder, ‘is to keep the strong creativity of Hermès alive. To nourish the rigor and the vision . . . to make these values vibrate. ‘This,’ he says, ‘is the force of Hermès.’ Those values—the dedication to rigor, vision and creativity—are what set Hermès

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Pandora’s problems, Coach’s margins decline, H&M’s leading lady, Men’s fashion takes a risk, Military Model

Moda Operandi | Source: Refinery 29

Pandora loses its shine after profits warning (FT) “Shares in Pandora, best known for the charm bracelets that it sells in 55 countries, fell 65 per cent after it slashed its full-year earnings outlook and parted company with its chief executive less than a year after it came to market in one of the biggest IPOs in Europe in 2010.” Coach profit boosted by sales, margins a concern (Reuters) “Upscale handbag maker Coach

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BoF Daily Digest| PPR eyes Brioni, Proenza Schouler’s new deal, Forever 21 arrives in London, Beckham at H&M, Behind Swarovski

PPR eyes Brioni (Reuters) “French luxury goods and retail group PPR is considering buying family-owned Italian tailor Brioni for about 350 million euros ($508.4 million)… The deal, if it goes ahead, would allow PPR to make further progress on its pledge to get out of retail and make luxury and sports brands its central focus.” A Proenza Schouler Deal Is Near (On the Runway) “A European private-equity firm is expected to

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Long view on flash sales, Milan gets sporty, SuperGroup saturation, Versace for H&M, Della Valle’s Empire

Gilt Men's Shirt Shop | Source: Gilt

Bargains on Flash Sale Sites Serve a Long-Range View (NY Times) “Flash sale Web sites, a thriving e-commerce trend to promote limited-time sales, started as a way for brands to unload excess inventory… But now they have become something else: a way to advertise and find new customers, many of whom visit the sites of the brands and buy full-price merchandise soon after the sales.” Olympics Ahoy! (IHT) “Love

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Dressing pop stars, Bottega Veneta’s ambition, Burberry reinvests in London, The young Chinese, H&M’s Johansson

Rihanna wears Hervé Léger by Max Azria | Source: Vogue US

Why designers love to dress pop music’s leading ladies (Independent) “A quick glance at red carpeted occasions explains why designers, while still happy to dress actors – from fledgling talent to veritable superstars – might find working with their musical counterparts more inspiring.” Bottega Veneta expands with bags of ambition (FT) “Bottega Veneta, which has built a reputation as a discreet, logo-free

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Celebrating Dame Vivienne, Duffy lawsuit, Oxford Street gets facelift, H&M misses targets, Camilla Bruerberg rising

Fashion Girls for Japan | Source: Fashion Girls for Japan

Westwood: From outsider to subversive insider (FT) “This coming week marks 30 years since Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s ‘pirate’ collection stormed the runway in London with a blaze of sunshine colours and ethnic prints. The show was Westwood’s first swagger on to the catwalk, forging a sophisticated post-punk aesthetic with a billowing new romantic silhouette.” Duffy Sued (Vogue UK) “LVMH

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Getting The Luxury Fashion Business Model Right

Elle Macpherson at Louis Vuitton A/W 2010 | Source: Fashionising

Today, BoF exclusively brings you Savigny Partners’ blow-by-blow analysis of the rapidly shifting luxury fashion business model which is undergoing transformation due to underlying shifts in consumer values, technology and globalisation LONDON, United Kingdom — Luxury fashion is a very exciting business which can generate substantial returns if you get the formula right. Not only is there the ability to charge up to ten times

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