Fashion criticism, Italian tax twists, Ecommerce imperative, Trunk show, Ethan Koh’s heritage

| Daily Digest

Chanel Autumn/Winter 2012 | Source: Independent

Fashion Week: The beleaguered art of fashion criticism (The Star) “There was a time when fashion designers feared the critics who populated the front rows of their fashion shows. A bad review could mean a collection was ignored by the fashion magazines. Stores might turn elsewhere for the clothes to fill their racks next season.” Italy tax twists throw luxury market in disarray (Reuters) “Jeweller Mattia Cielo

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Moneyed Milano, Branding the baby, China to cut luxury duties, CreateThe buys Morpheus, Brian Duffy’s genius

| Daily Digest

Bottega Veneta Mens Spring 2010 | Source: Style.com

In the Money! (IHT) “The changes are more profound than just strong sales figures, which, in the end, will be counterbalanced by weak numbers from other regions and financial fears about the euro zone. Italian fashion is undergoing the change from successful family-owned brands to multinational conglomerates.” Branding the Baby (WSJ) “Although there were a few early adopters, such as Armani and Stella

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Made in Africa, Londoners debut in New York, Sparkling provenance, Italian protectionism, Cartier’s leading lady

| Daily Digest

Suno Spring/Summer 2011 | Source: Suno

Into Africa (Telegraph) “Made in England; made in Italy; made in China. These are familiar labels in our clothes and accessories. But how about ‘made in Kenya’, stitched into the lining of a Vivienne Westwood handbag? Or on the swing tags of Matches ‘hot new collection, Suno, with its juicy mixes of colour and print?” For New Stars of London, a New York Debut (NY Times) “Among the world fashion

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Bulgari goes global, New day for Valentino, Women in Luxe, Conspicuous and discreet in China, Fashion’s relentless pace

| Daily Digest

Bulgari Store, Rome | Source: Daylife

Bulgari under fire for global ambition (FT) In a globalised world, the relatively small scale of many Italian companies… is proving a problem that is shared by Italian industry at large… ‘The risk to independent brands is that if they do not have revenues of around €3bn [$4bn], they will probably lose market share.’ This is because it is too difficult to compete with companies such as LVMH. A new day for

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Pilati’s precarious pedestal, Sexual extremes, Cutting a new cloth, Prada shuns Milan Borsa, Anne the angel

| Daily Digest

Stefano Pilati | Source: Fashion Squad

Balanced on Fashion’s Wobbly Pedestal (NY Times) “In total, Mr. Pilati has been a designer for nearly 30 years, during which time he has had highs and lows, wrestled with drug abuse, and constantly questioned his place in fashion and whether the pressures are worth it.’I have worked and worked and worked hard again… I have been a monk here.’” It’s Hard to Be Sexy (NY Times) “Of course, all this

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