PARIS, France — "It's all cinema, it's all from film," said Jean Paul Gaultier, summing up haute couture. Paris' enfant terrible seemed to have a point, speaking on the last day of fall-winter shows that have seen spectators transported from apocalyptic opera houses to the circus and flung across the four corners of the globe.
Colin’s Column | Is Haute Couture Poised for Reinvention or Irrelevance? (Opinion) “Couture! This magic word was all but forgotten 30-odd years ago, except in the most exalted and privileged of social circles. Since its high point in the late 1940s and 1950s, couture clients had shrivelled away just as the lifestyles the couturiers once clothed had withered as well.” Colin’s Column | Paris Couture Week,
PARIS, France — The weather was vile, the taxi shortage extreme. The gutters ran with filthy water from melting snow. We slid and slithered in ankle deep slush. In short, Paris was not at its best. But this was Couture Week (well, three days, which is symptomatic of how fashion ‘weeks’ have shrunk, but old habits — and titles — die hard in fashion circles) and we felt privileged to be there. But is everything shown in Paris during
The Discreet Charm of Christophe Lemaire (WSJ Magazine) “It’s been two years since Lemaire was hired to replace Jean Paul Gaultier as the designer of women’s ready-to-wear for Hermès. This accounts for less than 10 percent of the company’s sales and is dwarfed by accessories, which have the advantage of being both more iconic… and more accessible, like its silk scarves, watches and enamel
A love story that sparked a fashion empire (Reuters) “Mention the name Missoni, and most think of a fashion empire that revolutionized textile patterns, spawned the no-bra look on the catwalks, and is now a global brand that designs everything from sweaters to sheets to hotels. But none of it would have happened had it not been for the 1948 London Olympics, where one kind of flame sparked another between Rosita Jelmini and
The Prime of an Enfant Terrible (NY Times) “Watching Mr. Gaultier — and this is the interesting thing, as he stands with his face pressed close to a wall of mirrors, watching not the model, as she moves, but her reflection — you do wonder if the job still holds the charm it once did… But for some time, the fashion world hasn’t known quite what to make of Mr. Gaultier; the one time enfant terrible turns 60 in
Fast Retailing sets sights on US expansion (FT) “Fast Retailing is poised to expand aggressively in the US, where it is opening its largest Uniqlo store on Friday, as part of its plan to globalise operations rapidly and reduce dependence on its home market… Fast Retailing, which made its name selling high quality, affordable, casual clothes, is accelerating its overseas build-up, with plans to open 200 to 300 stores
In China, Women Begin Splurging (WSJ) “‘Many people are inclined to believe that gentlemen are generously purchasing luxury gifts for women in China, but our observation is that the great majority [of the buyers] are women who have achieved great success in their business and are now rewarding themselves with the finer things in life.’” GQ, Gilt Groupe Team Up on E-Commerce Site (Ad Week) “Gilt