Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Pitti Immagine

MILAN, Italy — This season, BoF dipped its toes a bit deeper into the waters of the Italian men’s fashion scene, starting with Pitti Uomo and moving on to fashion week in Milan. And, as the fashion circus moves on to Paris tomorrow, my fashion fantasies are still lingering on the outstanding presentation by Raf Simons for Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011 at the stunning Villa Gamberaia just outside Florence. It might not have been particularly wearable, but it certainly left a lasting impression.

Editors and bloggers were out in full force to see Mr. Simons’ pops of colour, which Tommy Ton aptly described—in the words of Michael Roberts, he was careful to point out—as a bit of sorbet to “cleanse the palate” before the start of the season. Tim Blanks called it “a synthetic sundae.” And afterwards, Susie Bubble was practically reeling from the sensory overload created by the combination of fluorescent colour-blocking, the setting sun, a looming rainstorm and those sweet flashes of colour below the classic shoes.

Describing the collection, Raf Simons told BoF that it was “A celebration of colour; a tribute to the vibrancy of extreme tropical nature, with colours that were brighter than ever before, renewing the summer wardrobe and subverting the codes of formal tailoring.” Indeed, it was a refreshing and promising start for the men’s season which had just begun.

There was little subversion in Milan, however, where the mega brands were out in force, doing their commercial thing with the expected dose of Italian swagger. Gucci, D&G, and Ermenegildo Zegna were among the brands who showed their wares in large scale fashion shows dotted throughout the city’s golden triangle.

While of impressive scale, there was little in these events to leave a lasting emotional impact, though there was plenty to add to my personal wish list for next Spring. Unfortunately, it will be at least 6 months before I can buy any of it.

Luckily, Burberry’s outerwear—and not just the trench, this season saw Christopher Bailey’s homage to the biker jacket—was available for sale online immediately, with deliveries in a six to eight week timeframe. But the amazing Burberry gladiator sandals and delicate military shirts will have to wait until the Spring/Summer 2011 merchandise hits the shop floor sometime around December, conveniently in the middle of winter. When we will sort out these fashion seasons for once and for all? I want to buy now.

More exciting than the click-to-buy clothes was Burberry’s clever link-up with young British musicians, a refreshing and authentic step forward after last season’s PR-heavy push to keep livestream and 3D viewers entertained as real-life guests took their seats. This time, online viewers could preview videos of acoustic tracks by some truly talented young musicians, as curated by Christopher Bailey. It risked coming across as gimmicky, but instead felt perfectly in tune with the brand’s British DNA.

“Burberry is an iconic British brand and Britishness is so much about music,” Bailey told me in a mob of international media backstage after the show, saying that he discovered the young talents in lots of different ways. “It’s never very strategic…when something really hits me, I love it.”

As for the Burberry Acoustic concept, Bailey said that it came directly as a result of feedback from the brand’s Facebook fans. “Whenever we’ve done things with music at shows or events, it’s always been incredibly well received. We’ve got a lot of Facebook fans and we’ve had a lot of feedback that they love the music, so this was kind of an organic project,” he explained.

Rumour has it that Live in Film, one of the bands featured in Burberry Acoustic, is being heavily pursued by an international music label. So, the young musicians may get more than just great exposure from the Burberry collaboration, there are music contracts to be had as well.

Speaking of new talent, there were some interesting newbies on Milan’s men’s runways too. Unlike the womenswear season which is pretty much devoid of new talent, young men’s designers in Milan are making a serious mark. The pre-show buzz about Umit Benain was virtually deafening, and Albino showed his first men’s collection in a quiet but confident debut. Tomasso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi showed an elegant and relaxed collection for Gianfranco Ferré, even if it seemed out of step with the brand’s heritage and indeed, its more structured womenswear, designed by the same duo.

All in all, after spending an enjoyable few days in the heart of Italy’s fashion community —and surrounded by some of the best dressed best men anywhere—it looks like the Italian menswear circuit may become part of the BoF roster in seasons to come.

Imran Amed is Founder and Editor of The Business of Fashion, an official media partner of Pitti Immagine

Jil Sander's +J for Uniqlo | Source: Uniqlo

Jil Sander Bathes in the Glow of Uniqlo (NY Times)
“This sensitive yet strong woman, trained as a textile expert, created a fashion house… and listed her company on the Frankfurt stock exchange… The fact that she walked out twice on Prada… is part of 21st-century fashion legend.”

Taking the High Cost Out of Haute Couture (IHT)
“In the spirit of the Jil Sander/Uniqlo collaboration — but at a middle-market price point — Mr. Theyskens is taking to Main Street an aesthetic that has formerly been seen at the Paris houses Nina Ricci and Rochas.”

Luxury brand diversification does have limits (Reuters)
“Diversification into new areas, which you do not really master, can be risky… But the luxury industry is full of examples of failed attempts to branch out.”

Versace sees profit in 2011 after restructuring (Reuters)
“Versace is looking to return to profit in 2011, after restructuring and weak demand dragged down revenue in 2009… [The company] posted a consolidated operating loss of 49.6 million euros in 2009, compared with a loss of 400,000 euros a year earlier.”

CFDA: Fashioning a National Identity (Style.com)
“The 28th annual CFDA Awards were back at Alice Tully Hall in Lincoln Center… for the second year in a row, and the stars came out to support the evening’s nominees.”

Erdem Autumn/Winter 2010 Digital Print Detail | Source: Style.com

Prints for the Cyberage (IHT)
“Printed matter has undergone a digital revolution, as the new millennium has witnessed a dramatic change in the way that a pattern is developed to follow the shape of the body and to overlay actual images with virtual versions.”

Takashimaya’s Net Slumps 34 percent (WSJ)
“Takashimaya Co. said.. that revenue and profit for the year ended Feb. 28 showed steep declines as consumer worries about income and employment hurt the Japanese department store operator’s sales.”

Jil Sander Launches New Line (Elle.com)
“Fashion house Jil Sander has announced that it will be launching a brand new, lower priced line… designed by Raf Simons after all – the line will be less expensive than its catwalk counterpart.”

From Paris to Patna:Net takes high-fashion to small town India (Economic Times)
“The sweeping spread of cyberspace has made it an ideal channel for coveted brands like Versace, Gucci and DKNY to reach out to the nooks and crannies of India, the country often touted as the next big retail destination.”

A fashion duo dresses up a wine label (FT)
“It was recently announced that Basso & Brooke, British designers known for their use of fabric decorated with pornographic prints, had been appointed ‘designers in residence’ to Turning Leaf, E&J Gallo’s traditional wine brand.”

Jil Sander for Uniqlo, courtesy of Uniqlo

Jil Sander’s new range for Uniqlo (Guardian)
“Jil Sander has been off the fashion scene for a while, but now the queen of understatement is taking on a new project – high-class design for the masses – with the Japanese brand Uniqlo.”

China Inc: Not just a maker but new owner of fashion (Reuters)
“After decades of Made-in-China garments, China’s fashion industry is keen to move on from being just a mass manufacturer of clothes — it wants to own western brands and to sell them to China’s 1.3 billion consumers.”

The A-Word: Fashion Embraces Accessibility (WSJ)
“During the boom time, it was considered somewhat shameful to create a ‘commercial’ collection that had practical elements (sleeves, for instance) that made them widely wearable. Now, many designers are creating more casual clothing — known in the industry as ‘contemporary’ — with an emphasis on luxury-quality sportswear.”

Back in fashion – Burberry’s CFO (Accountancy Age)
“In short, Thomson Reuters has delisted, leaving room for another company to enter the FTSE 100. Next in line is Burberry, the luxury fashion brand, and that brings Cartwright, the company’s CFO, into the top flight.”

Luxury Retailers Rush To Adapt: Chic Goes Cheap (Time)
“As fashion editors, department store buyers and couture afficionadoes congregate along the catwalks for New York’s Fashion Week shows, luxury retailers and designers may be looking upon beauty but their thoughts are likely on the ugly economy.”

Jil Sander and Tadashi Yanai, courtesy of AFP

Jil Sander to join Uniqlo (Drapers)
Jil Sander is set to become a design consultant at Uniqlo, “which will see her take overall creative control of the value fashion chain’s womenswear and menswear ranges.”

Delhi gears up for two fashion ‘weeks’ (India PRwire)
“Term it excess in times of a global economic slump, but two parallel events – the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week (WIFW) and the Delhi Fashion Week (DFW) – are again set for a head-to-head clash for their autumn/winter editions later this week.”

The duck that laid the golden egg (IHT)
According to the International Herald Tribune, the Moncler down jacket has come down from the mountains and landed on the city streets and fashionable society.

CFDA Announces Nominees for 2009 Awards (CFDA)
Marc Jacobs and Narciso Rodriguez are among the nominees for the CFDA Awards.

Escada Losses Widen in Quarter (WWD)
“Tough times continue at Escada. Against a backdrop of ongoing restructuring and a weakened luxury market, Escada’s earnings and sales further tumbled in the first quarter…” (Subscription required)