Photo Diary | PFW, Days 3-6: Isabel Marant, Martin Grant, Acne, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Chloé

PARIS, France —  Today contributing photographer Sonny Vandevelde files backstage imagery from the Isabel Marant, A.F. Vandervorst, Sonia Rykiel, Martin Grant, Viktor & Rolf, Acne, Veronique Leroy, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Chloé and John Galliano shows, held over days three to six of Paris fashion week.

…Continue Reading

Galliano hearing, Pinterest’s retail problem, Bosideng in Europe, Indian retail, Teen Vogue story

John Galliano | Source: This Photo Life

John Galliano in court to challenge dismissal from Dior and label (Telegraph) “Galliano appeared at a hearing at the conseil de prud’hommes (France’s equivalent to an employment tribunal) in Paris yesterday. His lawyer claimed victory after the court ruled it was qualified to hear the 52-year-old designer’s claims against his dismissal of creative director of Christian Dior in March 2011.”

…Continue Reading

Colin’s Column | Is Haute Couture Poised for Reinvention or Irrelevance?

Christian Dior Couture S/S 2013 | Photo: BoF

PARIS, France — Couture! This magic word was all but forgotten 30-odd years ago, except in the most exalted and privileged of social circles. Since its high point in the late 1940s and 1950s, couture clients had shrivelled away just as the lifestyles the couturiers once clothed had withered as well. Fashion had taken its lead from the arts, generally, and jumped on the democratic bus called youth and freedom. Even Yves Saint

…Continue Reading

Colin’s Column | Making the Case for a Modern Couture

Christian Dior Couture Autumn/Winter 2012 by Raf Simons

PARIS, France — Strange people in the fashion world. Take Dior. The couturier who founded the house with money provided by Marcel Boussac, the cotton baron, was secretive and superstitious, always looking for traitors hiding behind curtains. And nothing much seems to have changed since the man described by Cecil Beaton as “the Watteau of couturiers” first took the fashion world by storm in 1947, the year in which Christian Dior

…Continue Reading

Celebrating Yohji, Instagram’s platform, Hedi’s debut, Wintour and Galliano, Rookie’s first print

Ilaria Venturini Fendi | Source: Vogue.it

Yohji Yamamoto’s Museum Style (Interview) “Yohji Yamamoto, champion of the avant-garde, has built an empire crafting ready-to-wear clothing brilliantly complex in texture, fabric, and tailoring… Opening today, the Japanese designer’s work will be celebrated in Israel for the first time at Design Museum Holon, as part of a series of traveling museum exhibitions.” Instagram Becomes a Springboard for

…Continue Reading

Raf’s Dior romance, Schiap’s house, Digital luxury, Eyeing Dr. Martens, The Kooples uncouples

Dior Haute Couture | Source: Hello

Simons Starts Triumphantly at Dior (On the Runway) “The hardest thing to realize in fashion is that the future lies in the past. The second hardest thing is to forget the past. That precise turn of mind is what Raf Simons showed on Monday as he took control of Dior.” Schiap’s House Reborn (NY Times) “The mover and shaker behind the rebirth of the house of Schiaparelli is Diego Della Valle of Tod’s, who has created

…Continue Reading

Christian Dior Looks to Raf Simons

Raf Simons | Source: Hypebeast

PARIS, France – Late Monday in Paris, Christian Dior SA named Raf Simons as its new artistic director, ending more than one year of speculation and rumour following the departure of John Galliano, who was suddenly removed from his role after an anti-semitic outburst at a Paris bar in March 2011 and the subsequent release of a video of Mr Galliano making similar rants at the same bar a few months earlier. “It is with the

…Continue Reading

Sorry state of fashion, Pilati out at YSL, D&G talk, Harvey Nichols record, Oscar’s next big act

Jil Sander Autumn/Winter 2012 | Source: Showmoda

We Are All Guilty for This Mess (IHT) “The current state of fashion, with designers enticed to houses where they may be rejected, removed and re-embraced, leaves a queasy feeling. The drama that started almost exactly a year ago with the breakdown and departure of John Galliano from Dior has spread across the fashion universe.” Yves Saint Laurent creative head Pilati leaves (Reuters) “French fashion brand Yves

…Continue Reading

Dior sans couturier, Rio 2012 and fashion, Burberry boost, Twilight zone, Rising star Umit Benan

Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall 2010 | Source: Tendances

How long can Dior thrive without a couturier? (France 24) “Ten months after John Galliano was sacked over a racist outburst, Dior has yet to name a new chief designer — but sales are booming. Which begs the question: how long can the French fashion house thrive without a couturier at the helm?” Rio 2012: what can the fashion industry do to become more sustainable? (Guardian) “This new ‘fast

…Continue Reading

Galliano’s downward spiral, Vivienne Westwood lawsuit, Attention to detail, Trunk Club, Fashion’s Night Out

Vogue US September 2011 | Source: NY Mag

John Galliano: Rise and fall of a tormented celebrity (BBC News) “In the dossier that was presented to the court in Mr Galliano’s defence, a story emerged of a celebrity tormented by fear, hate, self-indulgence and loneliness. There were plenty of people within the fashion industry who saw this tragedy unfolding. But it seemed no-one had the power to stop it.” Vivienne Westwood faces franchise lawsuit (FT)

…Continue Reading

Colin’s Column | Something Is Rotten in the State of Fashion

Chanel Couture | Source: The New York Times

LONDON, United Kingdom — Death and disgrace do not often darken the world of fashion. In the case of the first, a designer normally dies long after retirement and his demise is of only local interest. In the case of the second, it rarely happens and can usually be covered up by one means or another. But in the last eighteen months there have been two tragedies that can neither be covered up, nor ignored. They are, of course, the

…Continue Reading

Chloë Sevigny opens up, Chalayan’s moment, Gap on track, Kate Moss marries in Galliano dress, Where’s the fun?

Kate Moss' Wedding Dress | Source: Grazia

The ‘It’ Girl, Now a Woman (NY Times) “No profile of Ms. Sevigny over the years has failed to note either her distinctive laugh or the impression that she is little bit coy… It also helps explain why her fashion designs, now sold in 100 stores around the world, have been so successful. They hold the promise of Ms. Sevigny: looking cool without looking like you are trying.” Hussein Chalayan: The man of the moment

…Continue Reading