Milan looks back, Trouble deepens for Galliano, All Saints on the block, Luxottica’s growth, Jason Wu’s ladylike empire

John Galliano arrives at the 3rd Arrondissement police station | Source: Daily Mail

In Milan, Trying to Leap the Obstacles (NY Times) “Maybe reality is always too unreal without time to reflect, but the problem now seems acute for designers. Many say they don’t have time to design in the traditional sense: exploring new fabrics and shapes. Some have unusual corporate pressures. Their instinct, then, is not to look around them but to adapt the myths of the last few hundred years, be they Mods, flappers or

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Innovation on the surface, Galliano crisis at Dior, Ferré expansion, Training tailors, Middle East impact

L-R Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Marni | Source: Style.com

Surface Attraction (IHT) “Sculpted shapes, clean lines and modernist architecture — why is the fashion ‘streamlining’ of today any different from its previous incarnations of the 1930s to the 1990s?… The answer lies on the surface. A combination of hyper-modern fabrics and imaginative decoration is giving 21st-century style a third dimension.” Galliano counter-sues over racist allegations (FT)

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Galliano opens up, Phoebe’s rewards, Sequoia’s new venture, Fashionista’s ‘Making It’ panel, The rise of me-tailers

John Galliano | Source: fotografuojam

John Galliano on Dior, Fashion and Style (WWD) “Over the next hour he engages in ebullient conversation that is both thoughtful and as entertaining… In addition to addressing [the beautifully redone store], he will discuss his own creative process, anoint a mysterious Brit designer a rising star and argue quite convincingly that the best birthday parties happen in London.” Phoebe Philo wins Designer of the Year

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French Connection sells Nicole Farhi, HoF to expand, MCM makeover, Galliano on the Fringe, Brand recognition

For French Connection, a U-Turn, Nicole Farhi Brand Sold (WSJ) “The British French Connection, known for its sassy and borderline-profane marketing, plans to close most of its U.S. stores and sell its Nicole Farhi brand, serving up a cautionary tale for Zeitgeist-chasing fashion retailers that fail to adjust to a rapidly changing market.” House Of Fraser Set To Expand As Sales Jump 10% (WSJ) “U.K. and Ireland

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H&M scion forges ahead, Equestrian luxury, Galliano menswear, Scant succession planning, DVF’s story

Keeping Fast Fashion Fresh, and Profitable (IHT) "It is not often that the Grand Palais... hosts a giant Ferris Wheel, a spinning swing, a shimmering mini Eiffel Tower, and a parade of scantily clad models showing lingerie on a catwalk resembling the Champs-Élysées. In the center of this adult amusement park stood Karl-Johan Persson, 34, in his new role as chief executive of H&M Hennes & Mauritz." Hermès and Gucci Press Equestrian Advantage (NY Times) "The heart of the sponsorships is not commerce but the soul of the brands. Hermès has never deviated from its noble, officer-and-gentleman image. But this is a good time to reinforce that classy conception, at a moment when luxury has become associated with a period…

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Bidding for Lacroix, LVMH optimistic, Galliano licensing deal, High street predictions, Polyvore designs

Christian Lacroix

Bidding for Lacroix Fuels Hopes of Survival (WSJ) “Italy’s Borletti Group, an investment company that owns stakes in Europe’s La Rinascente and Le Printemps department stores, is one of four firms to have submitted bids for Christian Lacroix fashion house, raising hopes that the struggling French brand won’t be closed down.” LVMH 1H Net Pft -23% On Distributor Destocking (WSJ) “LVMH Moet Hennessy

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Haute Couture: A premature death?

Merrill Lynch and Cap Gemini issued the 2007 edition of their annual World Wealth Report last week and the Financial Times and other media took notice, remarking on the dramatic growth of high-net worth individuals and the risky investment strategies that have helped make the world's rich even richer (subscription required). And then, today's WWD reported on the dramatic rise in Haute Couture sales experienced by houses from Dior to Chanel to Givenchy. Was Haute Couture's death knell premature? Conventional wisdom says that the Haute Couture lines of famous Parisian fashion houses are more like publicity machines and creative R&D playgrounds. For the price of  a collection of  hand-made, intricately designed dresses, the maisons of Paris get millions of dollars…

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Rodnik: This is not a rock band

Selfridges in London held an event tonight celebrating the launch of a new Surreal Things exhibit at the Victoria & Albert museum. Anyone walking down Oxford Street over the past week has probably seen the designer windows commissioned by the Oxford Street emporium, showing the creative work of Victor & Rolf and John Galliano, among others. [If you haven't seen the windows, you can see photos of them on Susie Bubble's site]. Another window has been designed by the dynamic duo of Rich and Phil, also known as Rodnik, who were the real stars of tonight's launch event. I first met the Rodnik guys during New York Fashion Week in September 2006. I had been introduced to them via email…

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Creativity and Commerce: The Arcade Fire

Yes, this blog is a commentary on the Business of Fashion. But, it is also a blog, more generally, on how you can take artistic and creative ideas and channel them in a way that is economically sustainable (and commercially lucrative) over the long term; how you can make the worlds of creativity and commerce co-exisit and feed off of each other harmoniously, without worrying about "selling out." Yes there is always a tension between the creatives and the corporates, but if the right balance is struck, the results can be magical. For example, when John Galliano takes his fantastical ideas from Haute Couture origami and oriental dreams and declines them for his RTW show in a way that is…

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