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8 December, 2010 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Galliano opens up, Phoebe’s rewards, Sequoia’s new venture, Fashionista’s ‘Making It’ panel, The rise of me-tailers

John Galliano | Source: fotografuojam

John Galliano on Dior, Fashion and Style (WWD)
“Over the next hour he engages in ebullient conversation that is both thoughtful and as entertaining… In addition to addressing [the beautifully redone store], he will discuss his own creative process, anoint a mysterious Brit designer a rising star and argue quite convincingly that the best birthday parties happen in London.”

Phoebe Philo wins Designer of the Year (Telegraph)
“Phoebe Philo, who has been hailed as the ‘Queen of the New Minimalism’, won the Designer of the Year 2010 title at the British Fashion Awards… [for Céline the] brand she has turned into one of the world’s most sought-after luxury labels, since her appointment two years ago.”

Fashion and You raises $8 mn from Sequoia (Economic Times)
“Online apparel retailer Fashion and You has raised $8 million from venture capital firm Sequoia Capital… Fashion and You is a members-only website that retails international brands, Indian designer wear and handicrafts.”

Seven Lessons Learned at Our “How I’m Making It” Panel (Fashionista)
“Last night was Fashionista’s first ever panel discussion! Bringing our ‘How I’m Making It’ feature to life was so much fun and incredibly informative… If last night proved anything, it was that this business ain’t easy.”

The Rise of Holiday Me-tailers (WSJ)
“Social-networking also has helped break down inhibitions … We are so used to customizing the world around us… and technology has powered that… ‘In this day and age, I find everybody needs to be a little different.’”

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16 March, 2010 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | French Connection sells Nicole Farhi, HoF to expand, MCM makeover, Galliano on the Fringe, Brand recognition

French Connection Spring/Summer 2010 Ads | Source: French Connection

French Connection Spring/Summer 2010 Ads | Source: French Connection

For French Connection, a U-Turn, Nicole Farhi Brand Sold (WSJ)
“The British French Connection, known for its sassy and borderline-profane marketing, plans to close most of its U.S. stores and sell its Nicole Farhi brand, serving up a cautionary tale for Zeitgeist-chasing fashion retailers that fail to adjust to a rapidly changing market.”

House Of Fraser Set To Expand As Sales Jump 10% (WSJ)
“U.K. and Ireland department-store chain House of Fraser said sales have jumped over 10% since its Jan. 31 year-end as it confirmed new debt covenants that will allow the group to expand its own-brand lines and online sales.”

MCM’s Eastern Makeover (WSJ)
“Now MCM, rechristened Mode Creation Munich, is attempting a resurrection. At its helm is Sung Joo Kim, an outspoken Korean businesswoman who earned her fortune licensing European luxury lines in Asia—and who is now trying to make her country, a big consumer of luxury brand names, into a creative fashion force.”

John Galliano takes a seat for Fashion Fringe (Telegraph)
“John Galliano, the global fashion star and creative director of Christian Dior in Paris, will take over from the Italian designer, Donatella Versace, as the honorary chairman of the annual Fashion Fringe at Covent Garden talent quest – and he wants to find fashion rebels just like himself.”

Brand Recognition Is the Issue (IHT)
“What is the final assessment on the 321 collections shown over the last month in London, Milan, New York and Paris?… Brand recognition is the vital issue, especially now that collections go global and viral before buyers have even had a chance to get to the showroom and make a choice.”

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15 December, 2009 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | H&M scion forges ahead, Equestrian luxury, Galliano menswear, Scant succession planning, DVF’s story

Keeping Fast Fashion Fresh, and Profitable (IHT)
“It is not often that the Grand Palais… hosts a giant Ferris Wheel, a spinning swing, a shimmering mini Eiffel Tower, and a parade of scantily clad models showing lingerie on a catwalk resembling the Champs-Élysées. In the center of this adult amusement park stood Karl-Johan Persson, 34, in his new role as chief executive of H&M Hennes & Mauritz.”

Hermès and Gucci Press Equestrian Advantage (NY Times)
“The heart of the sponsorships is not commerce but the soul of the brands. Hermès has never deviated from its noble, officer-and-gentleman image. But this is a good time to reinforce that classy conception, at a moment when luxury has become associated with a period of extravagance and excess… Last weekend’s event may turn out for Gucci to be a Masters not just in jumping, but also in handling its heritage.”

John Galliano to start men’s wear line (Independent)
“Italian fashion giant Ittierre will license John Galliano’s first men’s wear range. While Galliano is responsible for the creative direction of French luxury fashion house Dior (in addition to his own label, John Galliano), this new line will be down-to-earth in comparison, with the designer eyeing a ‘contemporary-priced, ‘urban casual’ sportswear line.’”

Tough to let go for 70-something fashion designers (Reuters)
“The passing of the artistic torch is one of the most discussed subjects in the fashion world as it can make or break the survival of the brand — but no fashion house is willing to talk about it officially. Aside from Armani, the clock is ticking for a number of other fashion companies headed by 70-something designers including Ralph Lauren and Oscar de la Renta in the United States and Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel in France.”

A fashion icon, unwrapped (Chicago Tribune)
“Meeting Diane von Furstenberg, we weren’t sure what to expect. After all, this is a woman who married a prince, made millions, graced the cover of Newsweek at age 29 and hung out with Andy Warhol… Definite diva potential. Instead, DVF …was decidedly un-diva like. No big sunglasses. No handlers. No swish of the fur à la Meryl Streep in ‘The Devil Wears Prada.’”

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28 July, 2009 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Bidding for Lacroix, LVMH optimistic, Galliano licensing deal, High street predictions, Polyvore designs

Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix

Bidding for Lacroix Fuels Hopes of Survival (WSJ)
“Italy’s Borletti Group, an investment company that owns stakes in Europe’s La Rinascente and Le Printemps department stores, is one of four firms to have submitted bids for Christian Lacroix fashion house, raising hopes that the struggling French brand won’t be closed down.”

LVMH 1H Net Pft -23% On Distributor Destocking (WSJ)
“LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA Monday reported a bigger-than-expected 23% decline in first-half net profit, despite a 0.2% gain in sales, hurt by heavy destocking at its third-party distributors at its wines & spirits and Watches & Jewelry businesses. Still, the Paris-based luxury goods and beverages group predicted it will increase market share in general.”

IT Holding unit signs Galliano fashion licence (Reuters)
“A unit of Italian fashion group IT Holding, currently in special administration, has signed a licence agreement with designer John Galliano to produce and distribute its Galliano menswear and womenswear lines.”

High street revival `unsustainable` (Drapers)
“A leading credit ratings agency has dismissed recent signs of life on the high street as unsustainable, predicting that the downturn may continue through to 2011.”

Site Wins Fashion Fans by Letting Them Design (New York Times)
“The fashion magazines Vogue, InStyle and Lucky may rule the newsstand racks. But online, they are also-rans, overlooked by the fashion-conscious in favor of Polyvore, an upstart Web site far from Fifth Avenue.”

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2 July, 2007 | by Imran Amed, Editor

Haute Couture: A premature death?

Dior_haute_couture

Merrill Lynch and Cap Gemini issued the 2007 edition of their annual World Wealth Report last week and the Financial Times and other media took notice, remarking on the dramatic growth of high-net worth individuals and the risky investment strategies that have helped make the world’s rich even richer (subscription required). And then, today’s WWD reported on the dramatic rise in Haute Couture sales experienced by houses from Dior to Chanel to Givenchy. Was Haute Couture’s death knell premature?

Conventional wisdom says that the Haute Couture lines of famous Parisian fashion houses are more like publicity machines and creative R&D playgrounds. For the price of  a collection of  hand-made, intricately designed dresses, the maisons of Paris get millions of dollars worth of media coverage that helps build the mystique and exclusiveness of their brands. In this way, couture is the single most important method for communicating the individual persona of a luxury fashion brand.

… Continue Reading

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