Canal Street AF1, created to drive counterfeit awareness | Source: Kicks on fire

Copyrighting Fashion: Who Gains? (NY Times)
“Paradoxically, the payoff from free copying has been enormous.  The fashion cycle turns faster, and the industry gets richer – and creates new designs more frequently. So why on earth would anyone want to change that?”

Luxury brands wrest back China market, eye smaller cities (Reuters)
“Many piled into China over the last decade, pairing with re-sellers and joint venture partners, but with so much at stake, they are severing these ties and bringing their own considerable financial and marketing muscle as well as expertise to China.”

Lanvin to Make Clothes for H & M (NY Times)
“Lanvin, one of the oldest Paris fashion houses, announced today that it will do a collection this fall for H & M. People can have their first look at the collection on Nov. 2, in a film that will be shown on hm.com. The clothes will go on sale Nov. 23 in 200 H & M stores worldwide.”

Esprit to Double China Sales After Decline in European Revenue (Business Week)
“Esprit Holdings, the biggest Hong Kong-listed clothier, aims to at least double China sales in the next five years after reporting an 11 percent drop in full-year profit. The stock fell the most in three months.”

Should John Lewis revamp their fashion? (Telegraph)
“The department store has just announced a revamp – the word alone will send a shiver down the spines of its fans – with the aim of becoming genuinely fashionable. Why on earth does Britain’s Favourite Retailer need to get groovy?”

WHY Wally Hermès Yacht | Source: Twistedsifter.com

What’s Next: Luxury Products (WSJ)
“Pierre-Alexis Dumas embraces innovation. But as the sixth-generation member of his family to lead, in his case, the creative end of the French luxury house Hermès, he must uphold tradition, as well.”

John Lewis Adds to Evidence Of February Sales Bounce (NY Times)
“Bellwether retailer John Lewis posted another double-digit percentage rise in weekly sales as wet weather drove customers to its stores, adding to evidence consumer spending bounced back in February.”

Balmain produces this year’s template for the high street (Independent)
“High-street bosses will be on the look out for inspiration for their autumn/winter 2010 designs, and the Balmain show will have been the focus for much of their attention. The French label… has been heavily copied by mass-market brands over the last year.”

Creating the World of Tomorrow? (IHT)
“A definitive exhibition of the work of Yves Saint Laurent, whose masculine/feminine vision dominated the wardrobe of the 20th-century woman, and a book celebrating 60 years of Pierre Cardin, fashion’s eternal futurist, gives pause for thought.”

Gianni Versace, a life lived as a 90s fashion icon (Reuters)
“‘House of Versace: The Untold Story of Genius, Murder, and Survival,’ by Deborah Ball tells the story of how Gianni, with his flamboyant sister Donatella as muse, not only became the cutting edge of 90s fashion but symbolized the era.”

Benetton Autumn/Winter 09 | Source: Benetton

Benetton’s Faded Colors (Time)
“Benetton, which had sales last year of about $3 billion, hasn’t gone away. The ads for its United Colors of Benetton stores are tamer and its growth less stellar, but even in middle age — the brand turned 43 this year — Benetton is proving itself to be a case study in business management.”

Luxe Market Faces Wealth of Challenges (Adweek)
“With economic conditions compelling even affluent consumers to pay more heed to what’s “absolutely necessary,”… survey data on the attitudes of affluent consumers, plus the observations of people in the business of tracking their thinking, point to a market that faces a wealth of challenges.”

Questioning the value of designer brands (FT)
“‘I used to look at $3,000 dresses and think that was reasonable – expensive, of course, but worth it. That’s just what things cost,’ says New York businesswoman Betty Sargent. ‘Then I saw all the sales last autumn and it altered my perspective.’”

John Lewis online fashion sales triple (Drapers)
“John Lewis Direct managing director Robin Terrell said that the department store had aimed to generate £8.5m of extra revenue from the relaunched fashion website in the half year to January. However, it is now expected to hit its target in early December.”

New fashion label relies on web community to design clothes (Independent)
“Beta Fashion, dubbed by its owner as the “first online fashion label whose collections are entirely based on designs submitted by members of its community,” has launched October 21, ready to take on the big labels of this world.”

J.Crew A/W 09, courtesy of J Crew

Despite Fourth-Quarter Loss, J. Crew Sees Room to Grow (WWD)
“Tightfisted consumers and rising costs may have pushed J. Crew Group Inc. to a $13.5 million loss in the fourth quarter, but the retailer still has cautious expansion.” (Subscription required)

Has spring sprung for US retailers? (Just-Style)
Though February sales have improved, this is an unlikely sign of a total recovery.

Simon Fuller to launch fashion retail portal (Drapers)
“Pop mogul Simon Fuller and Sojin Lee, formerly Net-a-Porter.com, are to launch a fashion style website which will be affiliated with brands and retailers via pop-up shops and advertising.”

Stefano Pilati Gets The Season’s Shoulder Just Right at YSL (WSJ)
The power shoulder is one of the biggest trends this season, but Stefano Pilati at YSL, offerred the “2009 version of 1985.”

John Lewis profits fall 27% (Drapers)
“John Lewis saw operating profit fall back 26.8% to £146 million for the year ended January 31, but sales were flat at £2.81 billion.”