Marc Jacobs | Source: Fashionfreax.net

Marc Jacobs To Dior? (Huffington Post)
“The question of who will take the top job at Dior has remained since Galliano’s ousting. But WWD writes that meetings between Dior representatives from LVMH, the luxury conglomerate that owns the Christian Dior label as well as Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs and a host of other top brands, and Jacobs’ legal representatives are set to take place this week in Paris.”

Carine Roitfeld by Karl Lagerfeld (Interview)
“Although Carine Roitfeld is no longer the editor of French Vogue, she remains steadily at the perch of the fashion world, standing atop those super-high bondage-referencing heels that she partly made a staple of Parisian style. But la femme parisienne, which Roitfeld very much is, makes her own ground wherever she walks.”

Cut from a different cloth (FT)
“What happens when bespoke is not enough? As the ability to personalise everything from your trainers to your trench has become democratised thanks to the internet, those in search of the truly special – the ne plus ultraof made-to-order – have become frustrated. Even more so as their old go-to solution, the tailor, has been constrained by the increasing homogeneity of cloth.”

J. Crew’s Canadian shoppers balk at higher prices (The Globe and Mail)
“J. Crew has raised its merchandise prices by about 15 per cent in its Canadian store and on its new Canadian e-commerce site compared with those at its U.S. outlets. For online customers, taxes and duties raised the final price for orders in some cases by as much as 50 per cent compared with the U.S. site they previously ordered from.”

Summer Scouting (On the Runway)
“F.N.O. was a good idea when it began, back in the depths of the recession when stores were virtually empty. But now it’s become a party, an institutionalized kickoff to Fashion Week, and though it apparently raises money for some causes, I have to believe that the costs of security, crowd control and entertainment, not to mention the traffic headaches, outweigh the actual benefits.”

Karl Lagerfeld for Impulse | Source: Catwalk Queen

Dowdy Department Stores Start Looking Cool Again (WSJ)
“The sector, long derided for dowdy merchandise, maze-like stores and crumbling facades, is making a comeback. Macy’s Inc., Nordstrom Inc. and Kohl’s Corp. are posting solid sales gains even as consumers remain cautious and manufacturing costs rise—and they are poised to continue the streak this fall.”

Lagerfeld for the Masses, Again (On the Runway)
“Macy’s unveiled its newest fast-fashion collection, this one designed by Karl Lagerfeld… What struck me about the designs, actually Mr. Lagerfeld’s second endeavor into the mainstream market, after his pioneering collection for H&M in 2004, was how much more sophisticated they seemed.”

Chinese, U.S. demand helps boost Adidas sales forecast (Reuters)
“Adidas, the world’s second-largest sports clothing company, raised its year forecasts again on Thursday after seeing a 5 percent rise in sales in the second quarter thanks to strong demand in China… The German group said on Thursday it now expects sales this year to be up 10 percent and earnings per share up by 15 percent, with demand in North America also remaining strong.”

Retail Sales Rise at Expensive Stores but Are Mixed Elsewhere (NY Times)
“New data from July shows that the retail economy is locked on two tracks: one for businesses that cater to the well-to-do, and the other for everyone else… While expensive stores turned in strong results, including a startling 15.6 percent increase at Saks Fifth Avenue, almost double what analysts had predicted, middle- and low-end stores were largely dependent on marked-down summer clothes for their increases.”

A Small Victory for Christian Louboutin in the Suit Against Yves Saint Laurent (The Cut)
“A development in the case, which should set a precedent as to whether other luxury shoe labels can safely design shoes with red soles for aesthetic rather than branding reasons, seems to suggest Team Louboutin may have an edge… The judge ruled in Louboutin’s favor on that chart, as well as on other disputed YSL exhibits.”

Mickey Drexler | Source: W Magazine

J.Crew agrees to $3bn takeover (FT)
“J.Crew, the US retailer with a preppy style, has agreed to be acquired by TPG Capital and Leonard Green & Partners in a $3bn deal… The two funds have agreed to pay $43.50 per share in cash for J Crew.”

Divergent paths for US consumers as holidays near (AFP)
“Americans appear to be shaking off the gloom heading into the holiday season with recession no longer hanging over them, but the mood is dampened by a growing split between the haves and have-nots, say analysts.”

Karl Lagerfeld Developing Lower-Priced Line for Macy’s (Media Bistro)
“Designer Karl Lagerfeld will soon unveil a fashion venture with Macy’s… for an affordably priced ready-to-wear line that will range from jeans to gowns. The new line, slated to launch with a collection for fall 2011, is also expected to include a major online component.”

Guess sees full-year above view (Reuters)
“Apparel company Guess Inc reported a quarterly profit on Tuesday that far exceeded Wall Street expectations helped by robust expansion overseas, sending its shares up 8 percent.”

Magical Reality in 3-D From Issey Miyake (IHT)
“Last week, the Japanese designer opened an exhibition called ‘Reality Lab’ in his 21_21 Design Sight cultural center in Tokyo… Other work in the show is by photographers, scientists and a planetary physicist.”

“I think they are very beautiful objects. There is no touch of what is considered bad taste or bad design [with technology], because bad design is bad taste today. They are flawless in a way. Facebook is a flawless object…it’s for me like a Brancusi”

Karl Lagerfeld speaking exclusively to BoF Founder and Editor-in-Chief Imran Amed on technology for The Luxury Channel, following the IHT Heritage Luxury Conference hosted by Suzy Menkes and held in London last week.

Anna Dello Russo | Source: Anna Dello Russo

The New Icons of Fashion (NY Times)
“Ms. Dello Russo and her raffish style-world cohort, who populate the mastheads of the fashion magazines, represent a new breed of Web-based reality star… they are casting a spell, their comings and goings relentlessly tracked by a new generation of aspiring style savants.”

What Does ‘Masstige’ Mean For China? (Jing Daily)
“If masstige collections are offered supplemental to the luxury collections, there is little risk of impacting the luxury spending; instead, masstige opens up a new market segment of middle-class consumers.”

Gap opens first China store, banks on rising incomes (Reuters)
“U.S. clothing retailer Gap Inc opened its first store in mainland China on Thursday, the first of its four planned stores in the country, as it banks on rising Chinese incomes to prop up soft demand back home.”

Polo profit beats, revenue outlook raised (Reuters)
“Polo Ralph Lauren Corp reported a higher-than-expected quarterly profit on Wednesday and again raised its full-year sales outlook due to strong demand globally, sending its shares to an all-time high.”

A McQueen Retrospective at the Met (NY Times)
“‘Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty,’ an exhibition of the fashion of the late British designer, will open at the Costume Institute on May 4 [and] will include designs from Mr. McQueen’s postgraduate show at Central Saint Martins in 1992 until his final collection in 2010.”

But what makes a good fashion film? And are these the same primary concerns that go into a good fashion photograph? While these questions have been circulating since SHOWstudio’s early experiments in moving image, this season, as the medium of fashion film matures, we saw the debate condense around two distinct points of view.

Some industry figures say that creating a successful fashion film is very different to creating a fashion photograph and underscore the primary importance of elements like narrative and acting. “What makes a good fashion film is exactly what makes any good film: direction, lighting, acting, script, sound,” said Diane Pernet, influential fashion blogger and founder of A Shaded View on Fashion Film. “These are elements that go beyond a static photo shoot,” she continued.

Ms. Pernet’s emphasis on the fundamentals of filmmaking was echoed by Alistair Allan, Digital Director at Dazed Group: “Anything near or over two minutes needs to have some form of narrative to keep the viewer engaged. The pace of editing is also important, as is the correct use of cinematography technique, which sadly a lot photographers don’t understand or sympathise with.”

Others think that great fashion films are driven by exactly the same concerns as great fashion photographs where the visual or stylistic story comes first. “I don’t think there are any rules when it comes to communicating a feeling, but for me, a fashion film is always led by the fashion — the lines, the colours,” said pioneering fashion filmmaker Ruth Hogben, who frequently collaborates with Nick Knight’s SHOWstudio. “Rather than film, it’s better to think about fashion: what makes a good fashion communication? It’s exactly the same as a photograph,” she emphasised.

Over the last two fashion cycles, we’ve brought you our seasonal ranking of the Top 10 Fashion Films. This season, the Top 10 includes powerful narrative films, like Karl Lagerfeld’s “Remember Now” for Chanel, as well as stunning films driven primarily by a stylistic story, like Ruth Hogben’s latest film for Gareth Pugh. We’ve also included “Act da Fool,” Harmony Korine’s controversial piece for Proenza Schouler, a piece that, we think, manages to place equal importance on narrative and visual storytelling. As you sit back and enjoy the films, let us know which approach you think works best.

(RSS and Email subscribers, click here to view the films).

1. Gareth Pugh S/S 2011 by Ruth Hogben

Starring a future-forward, silver-haired Kristen McMenamy, Ruth Hogben’s 11-minute geometric epic for Gareth Pugh captivated hundreds of editors, buyers and other industry insiders at Paris Fashion Week, where it was projected at giant scale in the Palais Omnisports in Bercy. Since then, it’s been beamed across the world via SHOWstudio and video sharing sites Vimeo and YouTube, entrancing thousands more. Directed by Ruth Hogben and conceived in collaboration with a close-knit team that included artist Matthew Stone, stylist Katie Shillingford and set designer Simon Costin, this is a film that puts fashion first, exploring Mr. Pugh’s S/S 2011 collection with laser-like focus. But the film also demonstrates with great effect how a designer can leverage abstract, visually-centered storytelling to perfectly communicate a collection and articulate a broader brand vision in one powerful communication.

2. Proenza Schouler “Act da Fool” by Harmony Korine

Proenza Schouler gave Harmony Korine, writer of “Kids” and director of disturbing features like “Gummo” and “Julien Donkey-Boy,” carte blanche to create this controversial film about teenage angst, resulting in what is possibly the most controversial fashion film released since the movement began a few years back. Shot in Nashville, Tennessee (where Korine lives) the film follows a group of African-American girls in as they drink, smoke, write graffiti and skulk around a schoolyard in Proenza Schouler’s Fall 2010 collection. “It’s about girls who sleep in abandoned cars and set things on fire,” said Korine. “It’s about the great things in life. The stars in the sky and lots of malt liquor.” While the film has attracted both severe criticism and praise — provoking a raging debate and discussion online — we rate it highly because it feels like an authentic piece of cultural content and perfectly integrates both narrative and visual storytelling by threading a poetic and mesmerising voiceover through a series of beautifully composed “moving stills.”

3. Chanel: Remember Now by Karl Lagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld’s “Remember Now” for Chanel is a great example of a successful fashion film that’s driven primarily by narrative. Pascal Greggory stars as a veteran playboy who encounters a young and glittering group of friends played by a high-wattage cast including Elisa Sednaoui, Baptiste Giabiconi, Heidi Mount, Abbey Lee and others. We think the film nicely complements Mr. Lagerfeld’s nostalgic, Riviera-inspired 2011 cruise collection and tells a powerful brand story that perfectly captures the gilded and care-free hedonism of summer in Saint-Tropez. Mr. Lagerfeld’s cameo appearance is fun. But our favourite part is the brief intro sequence where Leigh Lezark plays Coco Chanel.

4. Iris by Barnaby Roper

Barnaby Roper’s techno-robotic “Iris,” starring Iris Strubegger, is a stunning visual experiment that dissects a range of fall looks from Stella McCartney, Miu Miu, Givenchy, Céline and Proenza Schouler. We love the way Roper — who has directed music videos for bands like Razorlight, Snowpatrol and Moby, alongside his work for fashion magazines — hypnotizes the viewer with his surgically precise editing technique. “It’s the rhythm of the edit that’s the key to the film, the key to all films,” said Roper in an interview with Nowness, where the film first appeared.

5. H&M Designer Collaboration Teasers (series)

H&M developed a brilliant short video teaser campaign to get consumers excited for the launch of their annual designer collaboration. Featuring stereotypical designer types like a man in a skinny dark suit and a woman in an extreme blouse and chunky jewelry, the series of black-and-white videos engaged viewers in a collective guessing game on the identity of the yet unannounced designer, dropping a sequence of clues specifically designed to lead fashion-savvy viewers one way, then another. Discussion raged on YouTube, spilled onto Twitter and sparked countless posts in the fashion blogosphere that named Carolina Herrera and Thomas Maier of Bottega Veneta among suspected collaborators, before the identity of the real designer was revealed to be Alber Elbaz of Lanvin. Overall, we thought this was a fun and highly effective use of the short video format that was intelligently conceived to generate positive conversation across the social web. Bravo.

5. Holly Fulton by Quentin Jones

“Holly Fulton” by London-based illustrator, animator and director Quentin Jones is a riot of flash bulbs, humming birds, lions and Manhattan skyscrapers that brought a great big smile to our faces, and recalled the signature aesthetic of one of London’s rising design talents. Commissioned by British Vogue art director Jaime Perlman for her experimental fashion platform TEST, we think the film is a perfect complement to Fulton’s bold and graphic, 60s meets Art Deco collection.

7. Burberry Acoustic (Series)

Debuting three days before the brand’s menswear show last June, the “Burberry Acoustic” series cleverly highlights the brand’s longstanding connection to British rock bands with a collection of nicely styled music videos that populate the brand’s YouTube channel and Facebook page. The short films feature Burberry product, integrate with in-store happenings and function as a kind of digital support platform for emerging British music talent. Plus, the music selection is great.

8. Chronology by Luca Guadagnino for NOWNESS

NOWNESS commissioned Luca Guadagnino, director of “I Am Love,” to create this abstract, surrealist film featuring a stunning Mariacarla Boscono in tightly edited highlights from the fall 2010 collections of luxury fashion etailer Net-a-Porter, styled by Cathy Edwards. In a characteristically sharp move from Net-a-Porter, famous for their shopable weekly web magazine and accompanying iPad app, the video content leads consumers directly to commerce opportunities. When the film launched, all the looks seen on Boscono — including fashion from Christopher Kane, Chloé, Miu Miu, Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Sigerson Morrison and Azzedine Alaïa — were available for instant purchase.

9. Nike Gyakusou (Dark Edit) by Jamie Morgan

Jamie Morgan created this evocative film to launch the first collaboration between Nike Sportswear and Jun Takahashi’s cult brand Undercover: the Nike x Undercover Gyakusou performance running collection. The slow-motion visual treatment and playful yet deliberate soundtrack brilliantly capture the surreal sense of pace, stamina and inner focus that lies at the heart of performance running. We think the rain and smoke looks amazing as well.

10. Black Light by Suzie Q & Leo Siboni

Commissioned by Diane Pernet in collaboration with Vogue Italia, Suzie Q and Leo Siboni’s Blacklight appeared at A Shaded View on Fashion Film in Milan last May as part of a special series of one-minute fashion films inspired by “light.” The film plays on codes of fantasy and sporadically immerses the viewer in a blacklit netherworld to dramatic and haunting visual effect.

Did we miss someone? Which fashion films captured your imagination this season? Let the BoF community know which films you liked most.

Louis Vuitton Omotosando | Source: Highsnobiety

Web-Bargain Luxury Comes to Japan (WSJ)
“For decades, the model for selling luxury imported goods in Japan has been simple: plush surroundings, attentive service—and the ‘Japan premium’… But the cozy system may be cracking, [thanks in part to] third-party websites to jump in with deep discounts.”

Karl Lagerfeld cancels Paris show (Catwalk Queen)
“Instead, the designer is working on a new ‘masstige’ ready-to-wear collection in a bid to change the brand image into a more commercial line… The collection will be ready for A/W 2011, and will be sold online.”

Richemont sales beat forecast, Asian demand soars (Reuters)
“Swiss luxury goods group Richemont’s five-month sales jumped 37 percent, beating forecasts and confirming a rebound in the sector as wealthy Asians splash out again on top-end watches and jewellery.”

Phillips-Van Heusen raises outlook (Reuters)
“Apparel maker Phillips-Van Heusen Corp posted an adjusted quarterly profit that surpassed analysts’ expectations, helped by revenue gains in all three units, including its newly-acquired Tommy Hilfiger brand.”

Anna Wintour Weaves Her Web (WWD)
“Just what Anna Wintour needed: another project. On the eve of New York Fashion Week and a mere two days before her brainchild, Fashion’s Night Out… she is unveiling the new vogue.com.”

Nordstrom Rack Campaign Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Nordstom

Discount Store Is New York Beachhead for Nordstrom (NY Times)
“After more than a century, Nordstrom, the upscale department store chain from Seattle, will make its Manhattan debut… But don’t expect $4,000 dresses. Expect 25,000 pairs of discounted shoes, and an automated checkout line more at home in a supermarket than a purveyor of luxury goods.”

Jane Shepherdson: why we want what she’s wearing (Times Online)
“Can Jane Shepherdson do for Whistles what she did for Topshop? Meet the woman reinventing the high street. Hailed as the most powerful woman in British fashion… a retail genius who could predict the subtle shifts of what we might desire, before we knew it ourselves.”

Why marketing strategy should measure more than clicks (Biz Report)
“When it comes to the length of time consumers actually spend on-site, everyone knows the higher the rate the better it is… Likewise, most marketers believe the number of clicks an ad receives the more engaging the campaign is to consumers. Which one of these perceptions is actually correct?”

Designer dreams don’t pay the bills (Times Online)
“If McQueen’s label was still straining to turn a healthy profit, what hope for the newer wave?… Most people would be surprised to learn how long it takes for a brand to post a return on its investment.”

Just cruisin’ with Karl Lagerfeld (Independent)
“Chanel head designer Karl Lagerfeld has released a teaser for the short film “Remember Now,” which has been filmed for the label’s Cruise Collection show in Saint Tropez, May 11.”

Zara Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Zara

Inditex profit climbs 17 percent as sales jump at start of fiscal year (Market Watch)
“Inditex posted a 17% rise in fourth-quarter profit on a 13% rise in revenue as the Spanish retailer saw strong growth in international markets and opened its fiscal year with rapid sales growth.”

Guess Q4 Profit Jumps 81per cent (RTT News)
“International fashion house Guess? Inc. said Wednesday its profit for the fourth quarter jumped 80.7% over last year, driven by higher sales and improved margins. Quarterly adjusted earnings grew 45.5%, and topped the analysts’ expectations.”

Lagerfeld to Help Tod’s With Its Hogan Brand (NYT)
“Karl Lagerfeld has a new world at his feet: The Italian company Hogan, part of the Tod’s footwear empire, said Wednesday that it had signed the designer for a special collection.”

Lessons Learned From Two Retailers (WSJ)
“What’s the difference between Amancio Ortega and Stephen Marks? Superficially, the two have much in common. Both started out as clothing manufacturers…Yet the fortunes of the two have radically diverged.”

All You Need Is Luxe (T Magazine)
“Midway through ‘Imagine: John Lennon,’ the 1988 documentary, Lennon and his new bride, Yoko Ono, are seen prancing through a London airport clad in matching white pantsuits… He knew how to have a good time and how to work a look.”

Roger Vivier Miss Viv | Source: Holt Renfrew

What The Rich Are Buying Now (Forbes)
“While most consumers aren’t returning to their pre-recession shopping patterns, there has been a rebound in luxury spending lately. Ultra affluent shoppers … have started to come out of hiding”

Miuccia and Me (WSJ)
“Bertelli, is the mastermind behind a label most people associate with his wife, Miuccia Prada, the avant-garde designer who has created global sensations out of industrial nylon black backpacks, wallpaper-motif pleated skirts, tiedyed dresses and thick high-heeled wedge shoes, to name just a few.”

Italy’s Della Valle ups stake in Saks to 7.1 pct (CNN Money)
“Italian businessman Diego Della Valle increased his stake in Saks Inc with a series of stock purchases this week, strengthening his position as the second-largest investor in the U.S. upscale department store operator.”

Fashion to hit Tokyo’s runways (Independent)
“Japan has produced some of the world’s most famous designers – from Issey Miyake to Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto and Hanae Mori – and the Japan Fashion Week Organization is aiming to build on their reputations for a new generation of fashion geniuses at the same time as enhancing Tokyo’s reputation as the center of the fashion business in Asia.”

It bags are back as luxury brand sales soar by 60% (Daily Mail)
“Fashion insiders have long been predicting its death. But it seems there is still life in the old ‘It bag’ yet. Selfridges says that it has seen a 60 per cent increase in the past year in sales of ‘must-have’ luxury handbags.”