L-R Mugler, Issey Miyake, 3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2012 | Source: Style.com

Asian Designers Make an Impact in Paris (IHT)
“Asian designers, whether home based or in the fashion diaspora, are making an impact in the opening days of the Paris men’s 2012 season. Phillip Lim, the Cambodian-American designer based in New York, was smart to come to Paris to show a 3.1 Phillip Lim collection that was simple but laced with the conceptual.”

European Luxury-Goods Stocks May Benefit From Weaker Currencies (Bloomberg)
“Investors forecasting the euro and Swiss franc will weaken against the dollar may find comfort in shares of European luxury-goods companies. Financiere Richemont and LVMH are among stocks that would benefit disproportionately if the currencies fall further from year-ago levels.”

Crisis on the catwalk over Britain’s fashion brain drain (Independent)
“The British Fashion Council (BFC) yesterday announced the formation of a Fashion 2012 Menswear committee, designed to raise the profile of UK designers and increase sales.”

More Heads Roll at Ungaro (The Cut)
“After losing Giles Deacon in December and new CEO Jeffry Aronsson just last month, Emanuel Ungaro appears to be on one shaky last leg. WWD reports that the ailing French fashion house told retailers that they’re unable to deliver their spring-summer collection because of ‘internal reorganization.’”

Louis Vuitton’s Kim Jones: exclusive Q&A (Guardian)
“British menswear designer of the year Kim Jones presented his second collection for Louis Vuitton. He talks exclusively to the Guardian about his inspirations and moodboard.”

John Galliano | Source: Prittii

‘Too Much Pressure,’ Galliano Tells Court (WWD)
“John Galliano on Wednesday blamed work-related stress and multiple addictions for a series of public outbursts during which he is charged with uttering racist and anti-Semitic insults at a Paris cafe, but told a French court that he remembered nothing about the incidents.”

Out of Africa (IHT)
“Kim Jones has started his new role as men’s style director at Louis Vuitton with a mission: to embrace, via the luxury label’s travel history, the craft and culture of Africa… the Kim Jones spirit, and creative personality, are now part of the Vuitton team.”

Rock and Rags Are Co-Stars (NY Times)
“Fairs like Glastonbury and Coachella were a magnet for music lovers, their raffish turnouts — floral dresses, parkas and Wellies — a postscript to the main event. But the Hamptons festival (musictoknow.com) may well be the first planned from its inception as a platform for fashion marketing.”

Brazilian fashion: taking on Dior (FT)
“Although the event is now the world’s fifth-largest behind Paris, Milan, London and New York, Brazil is still a good deal away from cracking into international fashion. Indeed a lot of the effort goes into trying to hold on to luxury-hungry local shoppers and stop them buying foreign brands.”

London gets luxury MBA (FT)
“From champagne to handbags and designer frocks to yachts, the growing consumer demand for luxury goods has resulted in a growing number of management programmes to train managers… ‘This is a programme that is focused to reflect the very latest brand management thinking and developments within the global luxury sector.’”

Dries Van Noten Autumn/Winter 2011 | Source: Style.com

A Fresh Breeze of Change (IHT)
“This gentle zephyr is bringing a new fashion attitude. Out goes outré, excess and over-elaborate shows. In comes the quiet, no-fuss presentation of pleasing clothes. Freshness is the best word to describe what seems of the moment. Add to that ‘decency,’ meaning that any hint of ‘vulgarity chic’ has gone — and you get the new mood.”

Fashion Retailer Asos Sets Up Shop on Facebook (Business Week)
“The U.K. clothing site is the first European fashion retailer to open an e-tailing outpost inside the social network… the hip, London-based online clothing site became the first European fashion retailer to open an e-tailing outpost inside Facebook. Competitors such as Gap and Inditex’s Zara use the networking site largely to communicate with fans.”

Whiteley moves to Givenchy (Evening Standard)
“When Sue Whiteley was 13, she bunked off school and went to buy a pair of designer trousers, having saved up her pocket money for six months. Today, some 30 years later, she bestrides the world of luxury fashion, as the newly announced head of Givenchy… [Within] LVMH, Givenchy is second only to Dior.”

Kim Jones takes the helm at Louis Vuitton menswear (Telegraph)
“Jones, 31, previously designed for Uniqlo, Mulberry, Alexander McQueen, Hugo Boss, Umbro and Topman, before moving to Alfred Dunhill in 2008. A fashion all-rounder, Jones has also contributed both as stylist and art director for magazines… and was awarded Menswear Designer of the Year by the British Fashion Council in 2006 and 2009.”

John Galliano Exits the Way That He Entered (NY Times)
“In circumstances like these, a sensible millionaire designer would have jumped into his chauffeured car and gone to his boss and pleaded insanity, whereupon he would have been given an all-expense-paid trip to rehab. But that’s just it: Mr. Galliano is not a sensible man, any more than fashion chiefs are missionaries.”

Christopher Colfer, CEO, Alfred Dunhill | Source: Dunhill

LONDON, United Kingdom — In 1893, at the age of 21, Alfred Dunhill inherited his father’s saddlery business in London and slowly but surely transformed it into a global business spanning several categories including timepieces, automobile accessories and clothing. In this way, it was the first global luxury men’s brand, paving the way for brands like Ermengildo Zegna, Dior Homme and Tom Ford to follow in its footsteps many years later.

But over the years, despite a strong product mix and rich heritage, Dunhill has lacked a clear creative identity. And while Dunhill has the most prominent presence of any men’s luxury brand in China with over 75 stores, its presence in the United Kingdom, its home market, has paled in comparison.

In 2005, Dunhill announced it was bringing in 36 year-old Christopher Colfer from elsewhere in Richemont, where amongst other things, Colfer had overseen the Swiss luxury group’s prescient early investment in Net-a-Porter. Upon taking the reins as CEO, Colfer embarked on a transformation strategy for Dunhill: buying back licenses, appointing Kim Jones as Creative Director, and launching a series of ‘Homes’ in key markets, including London’s Bourdon House.

Formerly the London residence of the late 2nd Duke of Westminster, who had wooed Coco Chanel within its beautiful walls, Bourdon House includes a private member’s club (modeled after the Hellfire Clubs) and is Dunhill’s London ‘Home,’ tucked away near the end of bustling Mount Street, the new epicenter of London’s luxury retail explosion.

I recently met Chris at Bourdon House to take stock of what has been a very busy few years and to look ahead into Dunhill’s plans for the future.

… Continue Reading

Kim Jones, courtesy of IHT

Weaving innovation with history (IHT)
“I do like fantasy fashion – but I am a realist too,” says Kim Jones of his much anticipated work for legendary British label, Dunhill.

UK economy shrinks 1.5% in final quarter (FT)
“Britain fell deeper into recession on Friday after new figures revealed the economy contracted by 1.5 per cent in the final three months of last year,” reports the Financial Times.

The Brazilian New Media Force (JC Report)
A new media explosion is underway in Brazil.

Dubai May Opt to Bag Barneys (WSJ)
“Istithmar World, an investment arm of the Dubai government, is weighing a sale of luxury retailer Barneys New York just 18 months after buying it.”