Pierre Mallevays of Savigny Partners | Source: Savigny Partners

Today, BoF brings you an exclusive interview with a key adviser to the private family trust which, as announced today, made an investment in Lanvin, one of the hottest fashion brands in the world.

PARIS, France — Over the past few years, under the creative stewardship of industry darling Alber Elbaz, Lanvin has risen to heights that most fashion brands can only dream of, with nearly unanimous positive reviews from buyers and editors and a seemingly insatiable appetite amongst luxury fashion customers for Lanvin’s clothes, accessories and jewelry.

There was only one problem. After having invested significant sums early on, Shaw-Lan Chu-Wang, who purchased Lanvin from L’Oreal in 2001, was not injecting any more cash to grow the business. This left Lanvin’s hyper industry buzz and brand potential underexploited.

Not anymore. Today, in a press release issued by Lanvin (and as reported in WWD), it was announced that Arpège, the brand’s parent company, has received a cash injection for a minority investment representing 12.5 percent of the equity. The investment was made with a “long-term” view, apparently an indication that the investor does not plan to flip the investment for a quick profit. This is a refreshing change from some of the disastrous investments we have seen in fashion brands in recent years.

I spoke with Pierre Mallevays who advised the private family trust on their investment in Lanvin to learn more about the dynamics of the deal and the fashion and luxury market in general. Pierre is a friend and colleague, and one of the leading investment experts in the luxury space, first having worked as Head of M&A for LVMH for over seven years, and now as Managing Partner of London-based Savigny Partners, a boutique M&A advisory firm.

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Lanvin, Dior, and Paul Smith S/S 10, courtesy of men.style.com

Paris menswear week winds down with Dior, Lanvin (AP)
“The French capital’s spring-summer 2010 menswear displays wound down Sunday with a harder-than-usual silhouette from romantic label Lanvin, a retro rocker at British dandy Paul Smith and a sheer, shorn look at Dior Homme.” 

ASOS says trading robust as profit doubles (Reuters)
“British Internet fashion retailer ASOS Plc posted an expected 93 percent rise in year profit and said current trading was robust, boosted by strong demand for jumpsuits, boyfriend blazers and marble wash denim.”

Why retailers are launching retro collections (FT)
“While fashion has been plundering its own history for years, these days it’s not just the designers who are having a renaissance. Designs of long-ago are, too.”

Ready to Wear: Is it fair to lambast such an innovative designer? (Guardian)
“Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière has once again came under scrutiny online as bloggers point out that a patchwork leather jacket from his 2010 resort collection shown in New York earlier this month bears an uncanny resemblance to a ‘parrot’ jacket, courtesy of East West Musical Instruments that operated in San Francisco during the Sixties and Seventies.”

Karl who?

PARIS, France – We don’t actively engage in the rumour mill here on BoF, but when the whispers involve Karl Lagerfeld, Olivier Theyskens and Alber Elbaz in a Lanvin and Chanel merry-go-round, it seems worthwhile to engage in a bit of Friday afternoon fashion speculation.

Today, Diane Pernet has published a bombshell post outlining this scenario:

“This is not a fact until you officially read it somewhere else but rumour has it that Karl Lagerfeld will not renew his contract at Chanel and that Alber Elbaz will take his place and Olivier Theyskens will take Alber’s place at Lanvin…Nothing is engraved in cement, these are still just rumours you will have to wait and see.”

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Donatella Versace and Giancarlo Di Risio, courtesy of the Wall Street Journal

Bucked by Designer, Versace CEO Eyes Exit (WSJ)
“Gianni Versace SpA Chief Executive Giancarlo Di Risio is expected to resign, a person familiar with the matter said, after months of clashes with lead designer Donatella Versace over how to cut costs at the Italian fashion house.”

Lanvin Posts Profit, Sales Gain 29 Percent (WWD)
“Lanvin, fueled by the creativity of Alber Elbaz, can face the economic crisis “in a healthy way,” said executive vice president Thierry Andretta.” (Subscription required)

Business Journals to relaunch Portfolio.com (BizJournals.com)
“Portfolio.com will migrate to a new home as part of Charlotte-based American City Business Journals Inc.’s bizjournals, effective in July.”

Management rejig at New Look + video of first TV ad (Drapers)
“New Look has promoted Will Kernan to group managing director (owned stores), overseeing its entire network of company-owned stores.” (click here to view the ad)

Lanvin's London store, courtesy of FashionIndie

The New Lanvin Store Opens In London (Fashion Indie)
Lanvin, the uber luxe womenswear line designed by Alber Elbaz, opens a new store London store.

A marriage made in marble: Fashion local and global (IHT)
In Delhi, “the Emporio Mall is an Indian temple to haute luxury.”

US newspaper crisis deepens (FT)
The New York Times and the Washington Post are in deep cost-cutting mode.

Cartier Launches its Biggest Boutique in Middle East (Khaleej Times)
The massive store in the “upscale Dubai Mall testifies to Cartier’s confidence that chilly economic winds will not deter well-heeled residents and visitors to Dubai from buying its jewelry, watches, handbags and other high-end merchandise.”

Lanvin A/W '09, courtesy of the New York Times

Two Words for Fall: Toughen Up (New York Times)
The recession could turn out to make designers better.

Do You Want Clothes to Go With That Perfume? (WSJ)
At Rochas, there are now clothes that come with its legendary scent.

Gap boss takes pay cut (Drapers)
“Gap’s chairman and chief executive Glenn Murphy will take a 15% salary cut as part of plans to cut costs.”

Hermès Net Up 0.8 Percent (WWD)
Hermès post steady sales with marginal profit gain. (Subscription required)