British billions, Runway to retail, Dazed Digital relaunch, Betsey Johnson goes Facebook Places, Fashion theatre

London Fashion Week tent at Somerset House | Source: FashionSpot

British fashion industry now worth nearly £21bn a year (Guardian) “The research highlights not only the direct impact of the fashion industry, including wholesale, retail and manufacturing, on the economy but also its effect on other industries including financial services and tourism.” From Runway to Retail (WSJ) “After a New York Fashion Week of dramatic and extreme, if gorgeous, clothes strutting down the

…Continue Reading

Burberry takes control, Hello Tommy, Superdry boosts profits, H&M revenue weakens, LFW lineup

Burberry Autumn/Winter 2010 | Source: Burberry

Burberry to buy out Chinese franchises (FT) “[Burberry] said it would buy out its Chinese franchises in a £70m deal that will see it take direct control of its 50 stores on the mainland. The deal came in the same week China reported 10.3 per cent growth in the past quarter.” Hello Tommy (Vogue.com) “Tommy Hilfiger is adding a new lifestyle label to its repertoire, entitled Tommy. Aimed at twentysomething men and

…Continue Reading

Couture jewelry, New Creative Director at Lacroix, Armani slumps, Prada’s secret Chinese shareholder, Rocha II

Chaumet Tiara | Source: Chaumet

Jewelry With Stories to Tell (IHT) “You don’t need 3-D glasses for the sculpted shapes to stand out and the colors to pop. But the high jewelry that had an open day during last week’s haute couture season is finely tuned to the latest fashion.” Christian Lacroix’s New Creative Director is Up for the Challenge (Fashionista) “Besides Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, there is no designer in the world with a more

…Continue Reading

Digital Scorecard | Burberry 3D Live Stream

[caption id="attachment_10498" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="Burberry Autumn/Winter 2010 | Source: Burberry"][/caption] LONDON, United Kingdom — It was billed as the world’s first truly global fashion show, taking place on the penultimate day of London Fashion Week, beamed live in 3D to five global cities, and streamed to the rest of the world via 73 websites, including Vogue, Grazia and CNN, which all picked up the video feed in a global simulcast. It was undoubtedly the  most widely distributed fashion show a luxury brand has ever staged, potentially reaching an audience of more than 100 million users, according to Burberry CEO Angela Ahrendts. At first, I was disappointed that BoF had not been invited to attend the real event at London's Chelsea…

…Continue Reading

London Fashion Week | Digital Fashion Capital

LONDON, United Kingdom — As the fashion industry continues its march into the digital age, London — always known for its raw creativity and emerging talent — can now add digital innovation to that list. This is no overnight story. To the contrary, it’s taken ten years for fashion players here to plant seeds which are only beginning to bear fruit now, as fashion’s digital tsunami really begins to take hold. The British capital, after all, is home to revolutionary fashion website SHOWStudio, e-commerce pioneer Net-a-Porter, and online hub of youth culture Dazed Digital — all of which were founded many years ago. These seminal businesses have created a foundational and fertile seedbed for other digital businesses and attracted and developed digital talent that…

…Continue Reading

LFW meets BAFTA, Luxury rebound, Hermès boss sees tax hikes, Marc Jacobs sues Christian Audigier, Chaos theory

London fashion week meets the Baftas (Guardian) “It’s a brilliant idea to combine the drama of the Baftas with the catwalk glamour of London fashion week. It’s just amazing no one thought of it before.” Stores Reach Into Bag of Tactics As Luxury-Goods Sales Improve (WSJ) “Optimism is creeping back into style, following three seasons of budget slashing, according to luxury-retail executives who will

…Continue Reading

London Fashion Week | Burberry’s Unforgettable Fashion Frisson

LONDON, United Kingdom — In February of 2004, writing about London Fashion Week in the Guardian newspaper, Charlie Porter declared: "It's that old London fashion week conundrum all over again — wondering what's the point, and failing to find an answer." A month earlier, Porter said that London Fashion Week was in crisis mode. Looking back, it's easy to understand Porter's lack of optimism. That February, London hosted 40 shows in a 5-day schedule. This was a decline from 50 shows in September of 2003. Style.com only reviewed 13 of the on-schedule shows in London, or about 33 percent. As a proxy for quality, this ratio did not bode well for London's position amongst the major fashion capitals. Major editors…

…Continue Reading

H&M sales disappoint, LFW looks forward, Condé Nast prepares for cuts, Leibovitz for LV, Luxury and social media

Jimmy Choo for H&M, courtesy of H&M

H&M August sales disappoint (FT) “Hennes & Mauritz, the world’s third-biggest clothing retailer by sales, on Thursday announced a 4 per cent increase in third-quarter earnings but August sales were worse than expected.” Eye on London: Fashion Week at a Turning Point (WSJ) “A three-year, $6.9 million funding package from the London Development Agency has helped fund the British Fashion Council’s

…Continue Reading

Patriotic buying, Japan gets thrifty, New fashion world order, Mass retail helps, Mario Testino talks

A/W 2009, by Burberry, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney

Patriotic buying in turbulent economic times (FT) “They say a crisis can unite the most unlikely of characters, so when a cantankerous tycoon and a leggy It-girl both lend their celebrity quotient to helping the economy, it shouldn’t raise too many eyebrows.” Once Slave to Luxury, Japan Catches Thrift Bug (New York Times) “Not long ago, many Japanese bought so many $100 melons and $1,000 handbags that this was the

…Continue Reading

CEO Talk | Harold Tillman, Chairman, The British Fashion Council

Harold Tillman, former chairman of The British Fashion Council

LONDON, United Kingdom — Long before he was appointed Chairman of The British Fashion Council, Harold Tillman had already shown a commitment for supporting British Fashion, and young designers in particular. He famously gave Paul Smith his first job. And, in my first meeting with him back in 2006, Mr. Tillman and I vigorously debated and discussed the common challenges faced by the city’s designers and what could possibly be

…Continue Reading

Pringle’s new fairytale, Creative commerciality, Fashion’s Night Out, London’s homecoming, Burberry gets social

Norma Kamali for Walmart, courtesy of Walmart.jpg

A lady from Chanel who wants to drive Pringle off the golf course (Guardian) “American Mary-Adair Macaire aims to restore the struggling Scottish knitwear firm’s name for elegance.” From the Garage to the Runway (WSJ) “Little more than a year ago, 27-year-old Hannah Marshall spent most days at a garage in rural Essex, two hours outside London, working in a makeshift studio to create tight, sexy-sinister

…Continue Reading

Garment District woes, Narciso’s solo act, Boris on LFW, Sri Lankan sanctions, Debenhams’ designers

Pushing carts through New York's garment district

NY garment district battling for survival (Reuters) “New York’s reputation as a global fashion capital is under threat with the city’s once bustling garment district facing extinction, experts say.” A Minimalist Gets a Makeover (WSJ) “Under the Bryant Park tents of New York fashion week Tuesday evening, Narciso Rodriguez will show off his typically minimalist evening gowns and day dresses. What the

…Continue Reading

Bonkers London Fashion Week, Christopher meets Donatella, TK Maxx prospers, Polyvore investors, Grocery chic

London Fashion Week going to be bonkers (Telegraph) Sarah Mower reports that “the British Fashion Council’s biggest problem is finding enough room on the schedule to accommodate everyone hammering on the door. But as problems go, it’s a nice one to have.” Donatella Versace on fashion and celebrity (Times) Christopher Kane interviews Donnatella Versace and learns that she finds “the excessive emphasis on finance

…Continue Reading