Pringle thrown an £18m as it moves to recapture the luxury market (Guardian)
“The wealthy foreign owners of Pringle of Scotland have pumped another £18m into the loss-making brand’s continuing attempt to become a Burberry-style luxury label… accounts show the company has received injections of £10m and £8m from its owners, Hong Kong textile dynasty the Fang family.”

Luxury sales reveal return of confidence for the wealthy (FT)
“More prosperous shoppers seem to be defying continuing high unemployment levels and economic uncertainty to renew their spending on luxuries such as jewellery, fashion and cosmetics.”

Burberry show to live stream in 3D (Grazia)
“While guests will be sitting watching the ‘real’ fashion show at Chelsea College of Art & Design in London on February at 4 p.m, Fashion Editors and VIP guests in the selected cities will be putting on 3D spex to watch the larger-than-life broadcast in special ‘customized screening spaces’.”

Louis Vuitton’s emotion monitoring bags (Agenda Inc.)
“According to art director Fernando Lahoz’s website, Louis Vuitton is developing a series of emotion monitoring bags – technologically designed to ‘feel what you feel’… The bag incorporates a new HERM (heart and emotion rate monitor) in the form of a beautiful piece of jewelry which can be purchased with a bag or separately at Louis Vuitton stores.”

Sustainable fashion: what does green mean? (FT)
“‘Sustainable fashion?’… ‘What’s that?’ Good question. And here’s the truth: having spent two days in Copenhagen immersed in the concept, having thought about it over the weeks since then, and having canvassed a wide variety of fashion figures… no one knows.”

Prada Autumn/Winter 2009 | Source: Prada

Luxury jewelry maker Richemont eyes Prada stake (New York Post)
“Prada is close to a tie-up with Swiss watch and jewelry maker Richemont that could shake up the luxury landscape worldwide, sources told The Post. The Italian fashion house — whose ambitions to expand have been hampered for years by a crippling debt load — is nearing a deal to sell about a third of the cash-strapped label to Richemont.”

Luxury retailers see shoppers fed up with ‘frugality fatigue’ spend (Telegraph)
“Fortnum & Mason, the luxury department store on London’s Piccadilly, saw like-for-like sales rise by over 10pc in the first three weeks of December, as the weak pound and “frugality fatigue” caused shoppers to splash out.”

U.K. Retailers Post Strong Holiday Results (WSJ)
“Next and John Lewis, a department store operator, are the first of the U.K.’s big retailers to report Christmas trading results, and the results point to a strong result for the sector as a whole. However, both warned that the outlook for 2010 is still tough.”

The public image: Louis Vuitton’s ‘Savoir-Faire’ campaign (FT)
“‘Heritage’ and ‘hand-crafted’ have become catchphrases for the luxury industry since the recession hit, as old names that had embraced fashion during the consumption bubble attempt to shore up their credentials as investment-worthy brands. No campaign has made the connection quite so obvious, however, as that of Louis Vuitton.”

Meet Mr. Gaga | The Stylist Nicola Formichetti (T Magazine)
“Whether or not you know him by name, you’ll recognize the stylist Nicola Formichetti by his aggressively modern looks (Lady Gaga’s metal orb, anyone?). When it comes to his personal style, Formichetti attributes his unrestricted creativity to his multicultural upbringing, which was shared between Italy and Japan.”

Boss Black by Peter Lindbergh | Source: Hugo Boss

Permira to keep Hugo Boss, ProSieben for years (Reuters)
“Permira doesn’t plan to exit from media company ProSiebenSat.1 and fashion label Hugo Boss for a couple of years, the German head of the private equity company told Reuters.”

Chanel wins counterfeit case but is forced to pay damages (Telegraph)
“A seamstress who took Chanel to court for stealing her small firm’s crochet pattern has lost her counterfeit case but the famous fashion house was ordered to pay 400,000 euros for breach of contract.”

Do These Vuitton Ads Stretch Too Far? (Business Week)
“Instead of sexy models flaunting handbags and lots of skin, Louis Vuitton’s current ad campaign features Vermeer-inspired images of demure young women hand-finishing purses and wallets at a workshop table… There’s just one tiny detail missing. Hardly any Vuitton bags or wallets are handmade.”

Luxury shoppers still spending, but shelling out less (Los Angeles Times)
“The recession’s end hasn’t reached Rodeo Drive, where salesclerks can at times outnumber customers. But many stores are better prepared than last year, with leaner inventories and lower-priced goods.”

Retailers expect steady Christmas trading (Drapers)
“Every retailer surveyed in the British Retail Consortium’s Christmas Trading Snapshot Survey agreed that this year’s Christmas trading period would be at least as good as 2008.”

Martin Margiela Autumn/Winter 2009 | Source: Fashionologie

Martin Margiela to Leave Fashion House He Founded (NY Times)
“Insiders had known for months that Mr. Margiela had left the company in all but name. The designer’s particular vision, which had focused on the authenticity of the vintage artisan fused with modern photo prints depicting wrinkles or handwork, was missing from recent shows.”

Primark beats its one-day sales record (Independent)
“The flagship Primark store in London is thought to have enjoyed the best day’s trading in the discount fashion retailer’s 40-year history on Saturday, boosted by a traffic-free shopping day in the West End. The Oxford Street branch is understood to have taken more than £700,000, an increase of about 17 per cent on last year’s record for the store on the same day in December 2008.“

Talbots In Merger Deal, Swings To Surprise 3Q Profit (WSJ)
“Talbots Inc. is revamping its ownership structure to give the retailer more flexibility to complete its turnaround by infusing capital, reducing debt and shedding its majority shareholder…it is merging with a publicly traded shell company in which Talbots’ management will stay in place and the merger partner will hold a roughly 60% to 70% stake in the retailer.”

Louis Vuitton announces Madonna follow-up (Independent)
“Confirming earlier rumors, french luxury giant Louis Vuitton has unveiled next February’s ad campaign to the press, starring Madonna ‘replacement,’ supermodel Lara Stone.”

The Power 25: fashion’s most forward (Guardian)
“From fashion lecturers to PRs, introducing some of the less well-known names from the new list of fashion’s most influential figures.”

Multi-colour shoes, Gucci Autumn/Winter 2009 | Source: Gucci.

Shoes, bags prove staying power in luxury crisis (Reuters)
“At the height of the luxury goods boom, launching a single successful “it” bag was enough to substantially alter a company’s profit outlook. Over the past week at the Paris fashion shows, buyers, designers and executives were hoping the same kind of accessories magic would help luxury firms weather the economic downturn.”

World’s fashion weeks leave audiences all a-twitter (Guardian)
“This was the season that the fashion industry embraced technology in all its forms. With many criticising the biannual shows – and the ensuing air miles – as archaic and environmentally unsound, designers explored new ways to reach the masses.”

Designers give essential items a twist (FT)
“Last month Marc Jacobs launched a “stimulus package” of “essential” styles as part of “Don’t Miss the Marc” in his Marc by Marc Jacobs line (from £40 to £180); Rei Kawakubo’s Black collection reprises past favourites; and Alexander Wang, Doo-Ri Chung, Jason Wu, Jasmin Shokrian and Camilla Staerk have all launched simplified secondary lines. Basics, in high fashion form, are back.”

A triumph of style over economic slump (Times)
“Lauded at Fashion Week, designers Jenny Packham and Eugene Lin took the plunge and launched collections in recessions.”

Louis Vuitton Will Open Stores in Lebanon, Mongolia This Year (Bloomberg)
“Louis Vuitton, a brand of the largest luxury goods maker LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA, will open its first store in Lebanon and one in Mongolia this year, the brand’s chief executive officer said.”

Jimmy Choo for H&M, courtesy of H&M

H&M August sales disappoint (FT)
“Hennes & Mauritz, the world’s third-biggest clothing retailer by sales, on Thursday announced a 4 per cent increase in third-quarter earnings but August sales were worse than expected.”

Eye on London: Fashion Week at a Turning Point (WSJ)
“A three-year, $6.9 million funding package from the London Development Agency has helped fund the British Fashion Council’s efforts to raise the city’s profile, which include a showroom in Paris and programs to support emerging designers. But the package runs out next year, and while the agency plans to put forward another proposal, some doubt that the funding will be as generous.”

Condé Nast Execs Expected to Cut Budgets by 25% (Ad Age)
“Condé Nast is inching closer to slashing costs at its magazines, as editors and publishers begin preparing their 2010 budgets following meetings with Chief Operating Officer John Bellando.”

Annie Leibovitz to design for Louis Vuitton (ELLE UK)
“Iconic photographer Annie Leibovitz and British artist Damien Hirst are just two guest designers creating their ultimate piece of Louis Vuitton luggage for charity.”

Time for luxury to engage (Brand-e.Biz)
“Luxury brands are facing something of a dilemma when it comes to social media. On the one hand, everyone else seems to be at it, and they certainly don’t want to miss out. On the other, they’re all about luxury – and that means maintaining a certain distance from the consumer.”

Handbags at dawn for Louis Vuitton and Google (FT)
“It will be handbags at dawn on Tuesday in Strasbourg as the world’s luxury goods makers line up to listen to the European Court of Justice’s advocate-general give his opinion in the case of Google versus Louis Vuitton.” Click here to watch the Bloomberg video.

Hermès CEO Sees No Light in ‘Tunnel’ This Year on Japan Slump (Bloomberg)
“Hermès International SCA Chief Executive Officer Patrick Thomas said he isn’t optimistic about the next six months because of a delayed economic recovery in Japan, the French luxury-goods maker’s biggest market.”

U.K. August Online Sales Climb More Than Expected on Clothing (Bloomberg)
“U.K. online retail sales climbed more than expected in August as shoppers, lured by competitive pricing and improved returns policies, spent more money on clothing and electrical goods.”

Does the Fashion Industry Know What a Brand Strategy Is? (PSFK)
“Brands can pr, collaborate and twitter all they like, but without a differentiating brand strategy that creatively frames a different way for consumers to think about them, beyond a cool image or shinny mobile app, brands will always be focused on outdoing their competitors latest tactic.”

Pricey Savile Row tailors survive tough times (Forbes)
“For more than two centuries, this small street in London’s exclusive Mayfair neighborhood has produced wonderful, handmade clothes for an elite group that favored discreet, understated suits to make the wearer blend in, not stand out. But these days, Savile Row tailors are out to make a splash – even branching out into the glitz of London Fashion Week, with a presentation by E. Tautz Wednesday designed to showcase the venerable brand’s contemporary take on the old-style English military and sporting look.”

Nick Knight on location

Nick Knight on fashion, photographs and failings (Times)
Luke Leitch interviews Nick Knight: “I have friends in the City who are amazed by how the fashion business is conducted. It’s controlled by a few people, and not particularly well.”

Inditex 1H Pft Beats Views; Plans Online Push (WSJ)
“Inditex SA, Europe’s top fashion retailer by revenue, Wednesday said it plans a major push online for its flagship Zara-brand, as it reported better-than expected first-half earnings.”

Two Fashion Stalwarts, Reared on Same Bronx Catwalk (New York Times)
“Ralph Lauren (né Lifshitz) and Calvin Klein were raised in the Norwood neighborhood along Mosholu Parkway in the 1940s and 1950s, with Mr. Klein living at in an apartment house at 3191 Rochambeau Avenue and Mr. Lauren in an apartment building on Kossuth Avenue overlooking the parkway itself, according to Lloyd Ultan, the Bronx historian.”

Recession Dims Stars’ Style Power (WSJ)
“The struggles of William Rast, which didn’t show in the New York Fashion Week tents this week, are a sign of the times. The downturn in high-end fashion is hitting celebrity-backed brands hard. Many are disappearing. U.S. sales of celebrity-licensed products fell to $2.9 billion last year after peaking in 2006 at $3.5 billion, according to the Licensing Letter, a trade publication.”

Louis Vuitton eyes Lebanon expansion (Forbes)
“French fashion brand Louis Vuitton, which will open its flagship Middle East store in Dubai next month, is in the ‘final stages’ of a planned expansion into Lebanon, a company official said on Tuesday. Damien Vernet, general manager for the fashion house’s Middle East and India operations, said the company was also looking into Egypt, Jordan and in Syria as possible markets.”

Outside Macy’s before “Fashion’s Night Out,” courtesy of The New York Times

High Fashion Faces a Redefining Moment (New York Times)
“Designer fashion — the creative wellspring of the American apparel industry, the engine of style magazines, the stuff of plain old dreams — is experiencing a serious case of the blues. As another show season rolls out across the city, against the chilliest retail climate in years, many believe this is not merely a difficult moment for high-end fashion but a defining one as well.”

Louis Vuitton Wins Suit Against Counterfeiter (Korea Times)
“Louis Vuitton Malletier, a unit of French luxury goods maker LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said Thursday that it has won a lawsuit filed last year against a Korean wholesaler, which has been manufacturing and selling imitation bags under the brand Santa V for the past 18 years.”

Blame Darwinism, but we are all fashionistas (Times)
“It’s time to drop the ‘intellectual frump’ look and face the facts: in politics, business, sex or success, what we wear matters.”

Fashion’s Secret Helpers (WSJ)
“Fashion houses stretch their search for inspiration from a teen in Texas to a blogger in the Philippines. Rodarte finds a muse in a Chicago suburb.”

Whose Bike Are You Wearing? (New York Times)
“Until recently, bikes were merely fashionable. Lately, it seems, they are fashion — and they don’t have to be ultraexpensive novelty items to qualify.”

Vuitton to Sponsor Film Award (WWD)
“Louis Vuitton said Monday it would bestow $25,000 prizes to the two student filmmakers who make the best two-minute works on the theme of “life as a journey.”

Dishevelled London mayor graces fashion cover (AFP)
“London’s famously dishevelled mayor, Boris Johnson, will grace the cover of fashion bible Elle next month in what many will see as a surprising partnership to mark 25 years of London Fashion Week.”

Burberry has come home (Telegraph)
“The launch of this collection will be a massive event, the highlight of London Fashion Week. Not only is it the 25th anniversary of LFW and the British Fashion Council, it is also the first time since Bailey joined the brand as creative director in 2001 that Burberry has shown its collection on home ground.”

Fashionair on hunt for next presenting star at Selfridges (Drapers)
“Fashionair.com, the fashion website launched by pop svengali Simon Fuller, will host a series of events at Selfridges including a competition to become one of its presenters to celebrate the site’s official launch later this week.”