Posts Tagged ‘Luxury Outlook’

25 January, 2010 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | YSL’s fashionless film, Spending quietly, Escada’s rebirth, Ralph Lauren’s mobile magic, A question of heritage

YSL and a Naked Screen (IHT)
“With social networking the subject of the moment, Yves Saint Laurent made a bold decision to link its men’s wear to a new generation…But viewers won’t be getting even a glimpse of the perfectly cut coats, the jackets with a tendency to be rounded up at the base of the spine or even the drop-crotch pants that are a favorite of the designer, Stefano Pilati.”

Ready to Spend, but Not to Boast (NY Times)
“The Wall Street crowd is shaking off what one luxury retailer called its ‘frugal fatigue.’ Unlike earlier spending sprees, however, the consumption will be a lot less conspicuous.”

Fashion label Escada back on the catwalk (DW-World)
“After struggling with declining sales for years, Escada… is back. The Munich-based company recently presented its first collection under its new owner, Megha Mittal.”

Ralph Lauren is 2009 Mobile Marketer of the Year (Mobile Marketer)
“Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. took first place as 2009 Mobile Marketer of the Year… Ralph Lauren serves as a role model for outstanding use of mobile advertising and marketing.”

Heritage: Shake It, Break It or Fake It? (IHT)
“The Paris men’s season, which closed Sunday, was all about handling the heritage. Should you shake it, break it or fake the style of the past?”

15 January, 2010 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Luxury recovery, Macy’s brand hunt, Search engines serve up luxury, Mainland Chinese spend less, Shirt details

The Mall at Millenia, Orlando | Source: Marbella South

The Mall at Millenia, Orlando | Source: Marbella South

Luxury Goods Will Regroup as Economy Recovers (Apparel News)
“Discounters and off-price stores were the real winners in 2009 as bargain-hungry shoppers gobbled up inexpensive clothing and sale items. Meanwhile, luxury goods were pariahs, stuck on shelves as well-to-do consumers re-evaluated their stock portfolios and played it conservative. But that scenario could be turned upside down this year.”

Macy’s on the hunt for more fashion brands (Crain’s NY Business)
”Department store Macy’s is taking a fashion cue from its upscale sister Bloomingdale’s. Next month, the famous department store will host its first Open Call event, where fashion houses not currently selling at Macy’s can showcase their wares for a possible slot on the selling floor.”

Search Engines Deliver Wealthy Consumers (Earth Times)
“More than three-fourths of wealthy consumers use search engines when shopping for luxury goods and services. They perform an average of 14 daily searches, and 89% report that they made an online purchase as a direct result of a search.”

Mainland rich spend 15 percent less in 2009 (Shanghai Daily)
“Millionaires on the Chinese mainland spent 15 percent less last year than in 2008 and this lower spending caused luxury brands to target second- and third-tier cities for further expansion.”

A Shirt’s Tale: From cuff to collar and yoke to gusset; devil is in the details (WSJ)
“A lifetime connoisseur of shirts… [Brian Clarke] is also passionate consumer. Most customers don’t understand about 75% of the elements that go into making a high-quality shirt, he says.”

13 January, 2010 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Tiffany shines again, Tony Blair and LVMH, Italy to exit crisis first, Shifting values of the wealthy, Chic clicks

Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany's | Source: Tiffany & Co.

Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany's | Source: Tiffany & Co.

Shine returns as Tiffany’s sales rise (FT)
“Tiffany, the US jeweller, raised its profit outlook yesterday as strong holiday sales brought some shine back to an industry that cash-constrained consumers shunned during the worst of the recession.”

Tony Blair could help LVMH’s forays into new markets (Reuters)
“Tony Blair’s expected appointment as adviser to LVMH… could help it penetrate tough yet promising markets such as India… The former British Prime Minister, a friend of LVMH boss Bernard Arnault, is now free to pursue other commitments having been passed over for the EU presidency in November.”

Italy fashion to exit crisis first, body says (Reuters)
“Italy’s fashion sector will emerge from the financial crisis before others but the government needs to help companies be more competitive, the head of an industry body said on Tuesday.”

Have the Wealthy Changed their Values? (WSJ)
“A new survey from PNC aims to show how the wealthy have changed their values because of the recession. According to the survey, of more than 1,000 people with net worths of at least $500,000 in investible assets, 88 percent agreed with the statement that it is ‘more important than ever to live within my means.’”

Fashion on the web: Le click, c’est chic (Independent)
“Ten years ago, you had to head to the city to buy designer threads. Then a clutch of new websites changed the way we shop for ever.”

2 November, 2009 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Luxury reconditioning, iPhone apps abound, Topshop’s US success, Consumer confidence rises, Edun’s great hope

Saks Designer Sale Advert | Source: Saks

Saks Designer Sale Advert | Source: Saks

Even Luxe Buyers Expect Discounts (Adweek)
“We examine some other aspects of the luxury-buyer mind-set, including attitudes toward discounting and brands’ use of the Internet, as well as the post-recession outlook.”

The New Must-Have Accessory (WSJ)
“Amid a recession that’s clobbering sales of designer apparel, growing numbers of designers are rushing to embrace mobile-device technology in hopes of winning fans among younger consumers.”

Topshop Beats U.S. Curse on U.K. Chains (Bloomberg)
“Topshop is bringing new merchandise into its SoHo store every four to six weeks, and because Green has knocked out so many middlemen, he’s able to deliver the clothes at a more affordable price.”

Consumer confidence at 18-month high (Drapers)
“Consumer confidence is at its highest level for 18 months, despite people remaining anxious about the prospect of unemployment.”

Edun: Fashion, hope and charity (Independent)
“The label’s mission is to create sustainable employment in developing economies and to act as a voice encouraging the fashion industry to trade with Africa. Its focus is ethical rather than eco, but Hewson is working towards using more organic cottons in her collections.”

19 October, 2009 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Luxury recovery, Americans boost spending, France aids artisans, Targeting Indian consumers, Global designs at Hermès

Hermès silk scarves | Source: Hermès

Silk scarves by Hermès | Source: Hermès

Luxury goods industry on track for recovery (FT)
“The luxury goods industry will return to growth next year while the decline in 2009 will be less severe than expected thanks to strong sales in Asia, especially China, according to a study published on Monday.”

Wealthy U.S. Shoppers Boost Spending 29 percent, Survey Says (Bloomberg)
“Spending in the U.S. on luxury goods and services spurted 29 percent in the third quarter from the previous three months, as consumers with the highest incomes unleashed pent-up demand, according to Unity Marketing.”

France Aims to Address Woes of Nation’s Fashion Artisans (WSJ)
“France’s specialized embroiderers, seamstresses, tailors and hatmakers – once the backbone of a thriving fashion business – are today among the hardest-hit victims of the global slowdown in luxury goods sales. As fashion houses cancel orders and cut costs, these small businesses are now turning to the French government for help.”

Indians are not aiming for a Prada (Mumbai Mirror)
“The Indian customer spends very differently from her Western counterpart. There, they would live on mortgage but splurge on a designer bag. How many people would do that here? Despite the aspiration and affluence, let’s face it, Indians are still not aiming for a Prada yet,” she admits.”

Aboriginal artist gives fashion house a good wrap (Sydney Herald)
“Everything takes time at the French luxury firm of Hermès: celebrities wait months for their Birkin and Kelly bags, named for the actresses that inspired them. And so it is 64-year-old Aboriginal artist Gloria Petyarre has waited a long time to receive her own Hermes La Reve de Gloria scarf – the one she created.”

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8 October, 2009 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | McQueen 2.0, Hermès booms in China, Retail vacancies soar, Japanese dress down, Store inventories

Alexander McQueen S/S 10 | Source: SHOWstudio

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 10 | Source: SHOWstudio

Techno Revolution (New York Times)
“The most dramatic revolution in 21st-century fashion took place this week under the sweeping eyes of two giant robots. As they rolled down the stage at the Alexander McQueen show, the machines cast their cameras in diverse directions to project images on to the ever-changing kaleidoscope of a backdrop.”

Hermès Chief Thomas Says China Booming, U.S. Market Positive (Bloomberg)
“Hermès International SCA Chief Executive Officer Patrick Thomas said the French luxury-goods brand’s sales are “booming” in China and elsewhere in Asia, while the U.S. market is ’slightly positive.’”

Retail Vacancies Hit Multiyear Highs (WSJ)
“When consumers start their holiday shopping in earnest next month, they will find fewer stores competing for their business as vacancy rates at malls and shopping centers have risen to multiyear highs.”

Age of Bling is over as Japanese dress down (Times)
“The Japanese consumer — a wealthy arbiter of good taste, a dedicated follower of fashion and once the world’s most reliable buyer of all things foreign and expensive — may have fundamentally changed her view on what it means to look good.”

Shoppers With Money to Spend Find Less to Buy at Saks, Neiman (Bloomberg)
“Jennifer Prentice spent half of what she usually does when she and a friend shopped at Neiman Marcus Group Inc., Saks Inc. and Nordstrom Inc. stores on a recent business trip to San Francisco. They weren’t cutting back. They just didn’t find much to buy.”

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7 October, 2009 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Versace closes in Japan, Legal fashion, Parisians queue for Uniqlo, High street exploitation, Retail deflation

Versace A/W 09 ad campaign | Source: Versace

Versace A/W 09 ad campaign | Source: Versace

Versace to Close Japan Stores, Will Review Strategy (Bloomberg)
“Gianni Versace SpA will close its Japanese stores and review its entire business strategy, as demand for luxury goods declines in the world’s second-largest economy.”

Developing their fashion sense (Globe and Mail)
“New York Fashion Week, a semi-annual sea of runways under tents in that city’s Bryant Park, is one of the last places you’d expect to see lawyers from a Bay Street firm. Yet that’s exactly where Len Glickman and his team from Cassels Brock & Blackwell LLP make a point of mingling with the world’s fashion heavyweights.”

Parisians Waiting in Rain to Fuel Uniqlo’s Growth (Bloomberg)
“While celebrities watched models strut down catwalks during fashion week in Paris, dozens of people queued in the rain to buy 40-euro cashmere sweaters at the newly opened Uniqlo store in the city’s Opera district.”

High street brands accused of exploiting Asian workers (Guardian)
“High street British brands are being accused of exploiting factory garment workers in Asia by failing to pay them enough to live off in a report published today.”

Clothing and footwear deflation increases to 5.7% (Drapers)
“Shop prices have fallen on a year ago and were deflationary for the second consecutive month, according to the British Retail Consortium-Nielsen Shop Price Index.”

6 October, 2009 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Fashion’s family values, Céline’s new sensation, Jimmy Choo’s fragrance, Paper endures, Giles in Paris

Reiss A/W 09 | Source: Reiss

Reiss Autumn/Winter '09 | Source: Reiss

When a Bottom Line Isn’t Just About Profit (New York Times)
“As the fashion industry struggles with a global economic downturn and a rapidly changing consumer landscape, qualities that are at the heart of family and owner/founder businesses, like a consistent vision and a long-term approach, seem to be helping those companies ride out the storm.”

Fashion house Celine says 2009 year of transition (Reuters)
“French fashion house Celine, owned by luxury goods group LVMH, has been holding off opening new stores this year and hopes collections from creative director Phoebe Philo will underpin sales from 2010.”

Jimmy Choo and Inter Parfums Sign a Fragrance License Agreement (Yahoo)
“Inter Parfums, Inc. today announced that its subsidiary, Inter Parfums SA, and Jimmy Choo have signed a 12-year worldwide license agreement commencing on January 1, 2010 for the creation, development and distribution of fragrances under the Jimmy Choo brand.”

Paper Scrapes By In Style (Forbes)
“New York City’s Midtown skyscrapers host some of the biggest names in American media: Hearst, Condé Nast, Time Inc., The New York Times, CBS and News Corp. A dozen blocks south in the Koreatown neighborhood are the offices of Paper, a magazine that endures apart from the mainstream.”

Paris match: Giles Deacon’s tough glamour (Independent)
“British designer Giles Deacon’s brand of tough glamour made him a star of the London catwalks. This week he’s going to show the French capital what he’s made of, he tells Susannah Frankel.”

2 October, 2009 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Italian slump, Valentino endures, Luxury’s brighter future, Gilt Groupe’s Jetsetter, +J launches at Uniqlo

Missoni A/W 2010 ad campaign | Source: Missoni

Missoni A/W 2010 ad campaign | Source: Missoni

Italy’s Fashion Houses See No Early Recovery From Sales Slump (Bloomberg)
“Italy’s fashion industry will take years to recover after the biggest sales decline in at least two decades, according to the country’s designers, who criticized the government for not doing enough to assist them.”

Valentino Owners Say Company Will Survive Recession (New York Times)
“The finances of the Valentino fashion house will withstand the economic crisis, according to a partner in Permira, the private equity fund that owns the group. But current market conditions mean the investor will be sticking around longer than planned.”

Future Looks A Little Brighter For The Luxury Goods Sector (Financier Worldwide)
“Earlier this year, consultancy firm Bain & Company reported that the luxury goods sector was facing a decline of 10 percent, estimating that by 2010 the sector’s value could shrink to €153bn from its 2008 level of €170bn. In response, a new report by KPMG has recommended steps that the sector should take in order to survive the global recession.”

Gilt Groupe’s Jetsetter takes off (CNN Money)
“Jetsetter tells Fortune Brainstorm Tech exclusively that it aims to bring high-end travel online by adopting the model of its parent company, Gilt Groupe, a members-only shopping site featuring daily deals, or ‘flash-sales,’ on limited quantities of designer goods.”

Fast Fashion | +J at Uniqlo (The Moment)
“At 9 a.m., the line outside Uniqlo in SoHo was already stretching toward Dean & Deluca. By 10, it was around the block. Stores in London and Paris had already sold out.”

29 September, 2009 by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Footwear players want EU protection, Retailers look to Spring, Holiday optimism, Moss Bros loss, Gap founder dies

Pile of shoes | Source: e-boost consulting

Pile of shoes | Source: e-boost consulting

Italian and Spanish footwear manufacturers to fight for EU protection (Drapers)
“Anti-dumping measures have been in place since 2006 to protect the European Union’s footwear manufacturers from import surges. A decision to maintain tariffs, amounting to 16.5 percent on Chinese footwear and 10 percent on shoes from Vietnam and strongly opposed by UK retailers, would be likely to worsen East-West trade relations.”

Retailers On The Hunt For Spring Fashions (WSJ)
“While luxury shoppers may be thinking of the cashmere cardigan or the wool jacket they want to add to their fall and winter wardrobe, retailers are already on the hunt for what they think will sell come spring.”

U.S. retailers to see some cheer this holiday season (Market Watch)
“After last year’s dismal holiday season, U.S. retailers may finally see some sun breaking through the clouds in their biggest selling period.”

Moss Bros notches up £3m first-half loss (Drapers)
“The menswear retailer, which runs the Moss, Cecil Gee and Savoy Tailor’s Guild chains and owns the UK licence for brands such as Hugo Boss, said it will meet its expectations for the full year.”

Gap founder Don Fisher dies (Telegraph)
“Mr Fisher died at his home in San Francisco on Sunday following a long battle with cancer. The entrepreneur opened the first Gap store in San Francisco in 1969 after a frustrating experience exchanging a pair of jeans that didn’t fit. The original store, named after the idea of ‘The Generation Gap’, sold Levi’s jeans, records and tapes to 12-to-25-year-olds.” See Bloomberg video here.

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