Milan’s driving ambition, LVMH controls Bulgari, Magazine commerce, Who Is On Next, Tweet or be discreet?

Yelling ‘Fire’ on a Crowded Runway (NY Times) “Without question, we can count on Miuccia Prada, Raf Simons at Jil Sander, Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi and, at times, Tomas Maier of Bottega Veneta to say something with fashion, and not just offer approachable clothes. But there should be many more designers in Milan with that driving ambition. Otherwise, the future of fashion will be in jeopardy.” LVMH says it controls 98.09

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London’s dark edge, No slowdown in luxury, Exclusive allure, Drab male models, Daphne Guinness at FIT

L-R J.W. Anderson, Jonathan Saunders, Richard Nicoll | Source: Style.com

Tipping Toward the Dark Side (IHT) “Significantly, British designers, whose colorful digitalized prints of the last couple of seasons so influenced the New York shows, have taken a sharper turn. Although not angry or belligerent in the Punk mode, an angular geometry is the new influence, with craftsmanship as the subtext. The flowery prettiness once endemic to British design has been swept away by designers using both

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Hermès’ victory, Giles and Ungaro part ways, Responsible luxury, NYFW standouts, Social media drives sales

Hermès Scores Victory in Battle With LVMH (NY Times) “Hermès won a major victory Thursday in its battle to torpedo a potential takeover by its larger rival LVMH after a court cleared the French luxury group’s plans to create a holding company that will lock in descendants of the founding family for 20 years.” Ungaro Departure (Vogue UK) “Giles Deacon has left his position as creative director of Emanuel Ungaro… Deacon’s

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Market Pulse | Strong results fuel sector growth before tailspin in early August

Savigny Luxury Index July 2011 | Source: Savigny Partners

LONDON, United Kingdom — Over the past few days, international markets have plummeted in the face of growing uncertainty about the global economy, in particular the debt crisis in Europe and the downgrade of US treasuries by Standard & Poors. In this month’s Market Pulse, we analyse the market’s strong performance in July and provide a market update from the first few days of August. Big news • H1 results beat

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Amy Winehouse’s fashion legacy, Hermès arrives in Mumbai, LVMH ups stake, Halston’s new CEO, British brands

Vogue Paris 2008 Isabeli Fontana as Amy Winehouse | Source: Bubblespop

Of fashion and Amy Winehouse (FT) “She was her own fashion statement, and it’s my guess, had she been able to deal with her own demons, she would have ended up shaping fashion, not the other way around. She wouldn’t have sung for her style; her singing would have set the style. And the effects would have reverberated at a deeper level.” Hermès Opens in Horniman Circle (Mumbai Boss) “The store, the first stand-alone luxury

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Wall Street sours on Aéropostale, LVMH dazzles, Inflation in China, Technology disruption, A Royal imprint

Aéropostale: Cheap Clothes, Cheaper Stock (Daily Finance) “Aeropostale thrived during the Great Recession, posting record-high margins as cash-strapped customers loaded up on its cheap-but-stylish tops and pants. However, discounts from teen retail competitors, rising commodity costs, and a few fashion missteps have weighed on the company’s profits lately. After two consecutive disappointing quarters, Wall Street has soured

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Changing seasons, Bulgari bid complaint, Mobile marketing in the moment, Price inflation, Pint-sized pundits

Dover Street Market | Source: Dover Street Market

All change (FT) “While other shops gradually push the spring/summer sale stock into a corner as they introduce autumn/winter collections, every six months for the past seven years Dover Street has shut while new spaces are introduced, existing ones revamped or moved, and new ranges displayed…. What’s more important is creation and strength and newness.” Italian regulator examining Bulgari bid complaint (Reuters) “Italian

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Cultural landmarks, Gender balance, Burberry’s global success, US focus on Europe, eBay’s liability for counterfeits

Hussein Chalayan | Source: Vogue Paris

Chalayan and McQueen exhibitions: cultural landmarks of the year (Telegraph) “It is the intellectual and imaginative stature of these two former peers – the fact that they drove fashion to reflect difficult realities and push the boundaries of technology – which make their shows a different kettle of fish from the usual lifeless way clothes appear in museums.” LVMH Pledges Gender Balance In Europe (Forbes)

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Faking it, Fashion’s shifting focus, Digitising trend-forecasting, LVMH Bulgari deal cleared, Facchinetti returns

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2011 | Source: Louis Vuitton

Counterfeits get sophisticated: how to spot fakes | Source: WSJ The Finer Art of Faking It (WSJ) “The prices of the imitators are rising, confusing customers who are looking for the real deal at a discounted price. Still, the higher-priced fakes are just a fraction of what a real item would cost…  To fight back, more brands are turning to authentication devices into their merchandise.” The Has-Beens of the Fashion

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American made, My-wardrobe’s global push, Social goals, Hermès battle heats up, Unwelcome success

Brookks Brothers: Made in America | Source: Brooks Brothers

Made in America: A hook for wealthy shoppers (Ottawa Citizen) “The Made-in-America label has undergone a deluxe makeover. Everyone from Brooks Brothers to the Olsen twins is using it to hawk luxury goods… ‘There is a customer that appreciates that the product is made in the United States and is willing to pay for the difference.’” My-wardrobe boosts foreign dress effort (FT) “‘The past 12

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Personal stylists go online, Hunt for new talent, Exclusively.in expands, Hermès strategy safe, Tisci’s spirituality

Christian Siriano for Send The Trend | Source: Send The Trend

Because, Obviously, Everyone Needs a Stylist (WSJ) “Now, a crop of new e-commerce sites are trying to cash in on regular consumers’ desires for a Hollywood-type stylist experience of their own. The sites combine the Internet’s powers of customization with the cachet of stylists to attempt to match of-the-moment products to shoppers’ personal preferences.” Fashion hunts for talent in new growth phase

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Rebranding Jane, Lessons from Polet, LVMH plans for La Samaritaine, Richemont profit soars, The Twitter trap

Jane Pratt | Source: Crain's

Jane Pratt, Unbound and Ready for the Web (NY Times) “With verticals on fashion; beauty; sports; entertainment; DIY; technology; New Agey; and Sex, Sex, Sex and Love, xoJane.com is the latest chapter in the Jane Pratt story, a saga that began almost 25 years ago… For now, Ms. Pratt is engaged in what is the struggle for celebrity editors (see: Brown, Tina): how to reinvent or reconfigure her personal brand for the

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Market Pulse | The Luxury Consumer Is Back

Savigny Luxury Index March 2011 | Source: Savigny Partners

LONDON, United Kingdom — This month’s Market Pulse shows a continuing upward trend for luxury and fashion stocks versus the MSCI World market benchmark, erasing any lingering doubts about the return of the luxury consumer. Big news • Luxury brands have had an excellent start to the year reporting strong Q1 results. Double digit sales growth has been fuelled by continued strong growth in China and economic recovery in the US

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