Military in Milan, LVMH eyes Fabindia, On the prowl, Dates debate settled, Tavi steps up

Giorgio Armani Fall 2012 | Source: IHT

Military, Front and Center (IHT) “Is it the bitter, battling winter following the Arab spring that has created a march of the military in men’s fashion? A soldierly influence was an undercurrent in the winter 2012 Milan men’s show, which closed Tuesday. The idea of smartening up and shaping up may be a response to Europe’s gloomy economic situation” LVMH fund looks to stitch a deal with Fabindia (Business Standard)

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Market Pulse | Resilience in the Face of Uncertainty

Savigny Luxury Index January 2012 | Source: Savigny Partners

LONDON, United Kingdom — While the luxury industry entered 2012 with an overall outlook that remain uncertain, the sector remained resilient. Big news The Savigny Luxury Index (SLI) lost 2.6 percent in December, whilst the general market index MSCI gained 3 percent over the period.  The cause for this divergence was a temporary sell-off in luxury stocks in mid-December.  Two factors contributed to this: the Italian sovereign debt

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Mobile allure, LVMH grows Hermès stake, Nike’s brand power, Eye for design, Sophie Theallet

Rue La La Screen Shot | Source: Rue La La

Online retailing: The mobile allure (FT) “The transparency and convenience of ‘mobile commerce’ have given Americans the upper hand over retailers, according to Mr Thompson, who echoes the connect-and-inspire ideology of Silicon Valley when he says: ‘The consumer ultimately holds all the power.’ Indeed, for many traditional retailers, rising competition from the internet has capped sales growth,

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Asian engine, Menswear market growth, Online in India, Vogue archive, Oliver Spencer

Prada store Hong Kong | Source: Hong Kong Hustle

Across Asia, an Engine of Growth for Luxury Firms (IHT) “Europe is struggling to contain a spiraling debt crisis, the U.S. economy is beset with high unemployment, and emerging Asian economies are growing less rapidly. But none of this is killing off Asian shoppers’ taste for luxury goods. Companies like Burberry, Hugo Boss and Prada have continued to strike an upbeat tone on Asia in recent weeks, despite the havoc that debt

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LVMH and CSM alliance, Mellon exits Jimmy Choo, Branded luxury jewellery, Big in Japan, Digital catalogs

Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2011 | Source: The Consumerism

LVMH and Central St Martins Partnership (Vogue UK) “Central St Martins new Kings Cross building will feature a state-of-the-art lecture theatre sponsored by LVMH. The luxury conglomerate has also announced plans for a scholarship programme to recruit promising designers from the university for its stable of brands.” Tamara Mellon leaves Jimmy Choo (FT) “Tamara Mellon has stepped down from Jimmy Choo, the footwear and

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Market Pulse | Bounce Back Amid Clouds

Savigny Luxury Index October 2011 | Source: Savigny Partners

LONDON, United Kingdom — The market roller coaster continues, but the luxury sector has once again outperformed the general market. While questions remain about the ability for China to sustain the growth of luxury brands, investors seem to be on side again, at least for now. Analysts remain divided about the future of the luxury sector in 2012, amid much macroeconomic uncertainty. Big news • Renewed confidence in the sector

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Flash sales lose flash, Storm clouds over Chinese e-commerce, LVMH confidence, India’s luxury boom, LFW to LA

Fendi on sale | Source: Xiu.com

Online flash sales less flashy as inventory shrinks (Reuters) “The flash sales business has lost some of its flash, forcing online luxury clothing merchants such as Gilt Groupe, Ideeli and Rue La La to radically change their business models. These businesses burst onto the fashion scene during the recession to try to move a mountain of unsold clothes. Now there is less luxury inventory and flash sales sites are bigger. That has

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Hermès’ plans for India, Fashion Week battle continues, eBay’s mobile sales up, Rags to riches, LVMH opens its doors

L-R Céline, Comme des Garçons, Miu Miu S/S 2012 | Source: Style.com Source Style.com

Hermès sees sari as way in to India (FT) “It’s perhaps not surprising that the first offer of a sari from a western company comes from Hermès, which last year launched a bespoke Chinese brand, aimed at winning more Chinese customers while resuscitating China’s craft tradition… India’s luxury market has recently captured the attention of European and American fashion houses, as the increasingly affluent elite shrug off years of

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Milan’s driving ambition, LVMH controls Bulgari, Magazine commerce, Who Is On Next, Tweet or be discreet?

Yelling ‘Fire’ on a Crowded Runway (NY Times) “Without question, we can count on Miuccia Prada, Raf Simons at Jil Sander, Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi and, at times, Tomas Maier of Bottega Veneta to say something with fashion, and not just offer approachable clothes. But there should be many more designers in Milan with that driving ambition. Otherwise, the future of fashion will be in jeopardy.” LVMH says it controls 98.09

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London’s dark edge, No slowdown in luxury, Exclusive allure, Drab male models, Daphne Guinness at FIT

L-R J.W. Anderson, Jonathan Saunders, Richard Nicoll | Source: Style.com

Tipping Toward the Dark Side (IHT) “Significantly, British designers, whose colorful digitalized prints of the last couple of seasons so influenced the New York shows, have taken a sharper turn. Although not angry or belligerent in the Punk mode, an angular geometry is the new influence, with craftsmanship as the subtext. The flowery prettiness once endemic to British design has been swept away by designers using both

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Hermès’ victory, Giles and Ungaro part ways, Responsible luxury, NYFW standouts, Social media drives sales

Hermès Scores Victory in Battle With LVMH (NY Times) “Hermès won a major victory Thursday in its battle to torpedo a potential takeover by its larger rival LVMH after a court cleared the French luxury group’s plans to create a holding company that will lock in descendants of the founding family for 20 years.” Ungaro Departure (Vogue UK) “Giles Deacon has left his position as creative director of Emanuel Ungaro… Deacon’s

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Market Pulse | Strong results fuel sector growth before tailspin in early August

Savigny Luxury Index July 2011 | Source: Savigny Partners

LONDON, United Kingdom — Over the past few days, international markets have plummeted in the face of growing uncertainty about the global economy, in particular the debt crisis in Europe and the downgrade of US treasuries by Standard & Poors. In this month’s Market Pulse, we analyse the market’s strong performance in July and provide a market update from the first few days of August. Big news • H1 results beat

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Amy Winehouse’s fashion legacy, Hermès arrives in Mumbai, LVMH ups stake, Halston’s new CEO, British brands

Vogue Paris 2008 Isabeli Fontana as Amy Winehouse | Source: Bubblespop

Of fashion and Amy Winehouse (FT) “She was her own fashion statement, and it’s my guess, had she been able to deal with her own demons, she would have ended up shaping fashion, not the other way around. She wouldn’t have sung for her style; her singing would have set the style. And the effects would have reverberated at a deeper level.” Hermès Opens in Horniman Circle (Mumbai Boss) “The store, the first stand-alone luxury

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