Hussein Chalayan S/S 2011 featured in Glamcult | Source: Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan: The surreal thing (Independent)
“When a designer such as Hussein Chalayan bases his collection on Japan it’s safe to presume that his interpretation will be far from literal: no opulent silk obi sashes tying flat-cut voluminous garments here.”

Marks and Spencer to return to France (Telegraph)
“The British high street stalwart has today announced that it will be returning to the French capital in style, opening a giant, three-storey floor on the fashionable Champs Elysées in the centre of the French capital towards the end of the year.”

Hermès in talks to sell 45 percent Gaultier stake (Reuters)
“Hermès is looking to sever longstanding ties with star designer Jean-Paul Gaultier as the French luxury group has begun talks to sell its 45 percent stake in the Gaultier fashion brand. Hermès… said on Friday it had been approached by potential buyers and was studying all options.”

Dolce & Gabbana acquitted of tax evasion (Telegraph)
“The news follows a preliminary court hearing held in Milan last week concerning accusations that design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana had avoided paying taxes totalling $569 million each.”

Designers Face Uphill Battle When It Comes to Knock-offs (Thread NY)
“Knock offs are nothing new, but the Proenza Schouler bag situation hit a nerve — after all, the design duo has a history of partnering with Target. If they aren’t off limits, who is?”

NEW YORK, United States — Large luxury goods makers have long emphasised the cultural heritage of their brands and the provenance of their products. But in search of business efficiencies, these same luxury companies — who must ultimately answer to shareholders — increasingly source materials and labour outside their home markets, especially for their more affordable lines, creating a disconnect between consumer perception and manufacturing reality.

As consumers increasingly scrutinise luxury goods purchases, and craftsmanship, authenticity and heritage take centre stage in major advertising campaigns for brands like Gucci and Louis Vuitton, this disconnect has become more pronounced. Indeed, earlier this year, the UK’s Advertising Standards Agency banned two Louis Vuitton ads for misleading the public into thinking that the predominantly machine-made bags were handcrafted by European artisans.

Going forward, a new generation of digital tracing technologies may have the ability to pull back the curtain on materials and labour sourcing and give consumers the answers they are looking for.

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El Palacio de Hierro luxury department store, Mexico City | Source: iluminet.com

Ferragamo Chief Norsa Says Mexico Is Strongest Luxury Market (Bloomberg)
“Salvatore Ferragamo SpA Chief Executive Officer Michele Norsa said the Italian fashion brand’s strongest sales growth among major economies this year has been in Mexico, where the wealthy spent more at home as the peso fell.”

Asos benefits from overseas sales (FT)
“In a statement ahead of its annual shareholder meeting, Asos said trading was in line with expectations for the six months to September 30. The fashion site said it had 1.2m active customers in the period, up from 890,000 a year ago, with 5.6m visitors a month.”

U.K. Retail Sales Index Rises to Highest Since April, CBI Says (Bloomberg)
“Retailers saying sales increased from a year earlier outnumbered those reporting declines by 3 percentage points, compared with a reading of minus 16 points in August, the biggest U.K. business lobby said in a statement in London today.”

M&S Sales Improving, Cautious On Outlook (WSJ)
“U.K. retailer Marks & Spencer Group PLC Wednesday reported better-than-expected fiscal second-quarter sales, driven by the introduction of more affordable food and revamped clothing and homeware ranges, but cautioned that trading conditions will remain difficult well into next year due to the economic downturn.”

Random Thoughts Before the Train to Paris (New York Times)
Cathy Horyn collects her thoughts before her arrival in Paris.

Zandra Rhodes for Marks & Spencer

LONDON, United Kingdom — She may have given up the boyfriend and lost the company, but Noelle Reno, the founder of Degrees of Freedom with ex-boyfriend Matthew Mellon, has retained her love of working in fashion. After a year hiatus in the wake of the separation (during which she filed suit against Mellon in Manhattan Superior Court), she’s back in London and hard at work on her next fashion project—trying to grow Zandra Rhodes into a global lifestyle brand.

“She belongs up there with Vivienne Westwood,” Reno told The Business of Fashion. “She set so many trends.”

Rhodes’ recent successful collaborations with Top Shop and Marks & Spencer convinced Reno that now is an opportune time to seize upon what she sees as the growing public interest in the Zandra Rhodes brand. “Zandra Rhodes is already a luxury, lifestyle brand and we are simply working on expanding product categories that offers quality and value,” Reno said. “Zandra has enjoyed working on the collaborations with major retailers and in focusing again on her core business.”

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Marks & Spencer, photo courtesy of the Sun UK.

Marks & Spencer to Cut 1,230 Jobs (WWD)
Marks & Spencer’s chairman expects its “gross profit margin to be 1.75 percentage points lower than the previous year,” and plans to cut 1,230 jobs.

New Year, bad news (Just Style)
The “disastrous holiday sales will spark a domino effect of store closures and bankruptcy filings over the next couple of months.”

Calvin Klein, Michael Kors Confirmed For New York Fashion Week (WSJ)
Not everyone is bowing out of fashion week as IMG confirms the shows of Calvin Klein and Donna Karan.

Iconix’s New Latin America Joint Venture (WSJ)
Iconix, which owns Candies and Badgley Mischka, will distribute its brands to Latin America in a joint effort with New Brands Americas LLC.