Matteo Marzotto in his Milan offices | Source: The Business of Fashion

MILAN, Italy — When Matteo Marzotto, stylish scion of the Italian fashion dynasty announced in February 2009 that he was acquiring the storied House of Vionnet, owned at the time by Arnaud de Lummen who had already had a go at reviving the sleeping beauty himself, the response from the fashion industry was simultaneously one of intrigue and distaste. On the one hand, a swarm of journalists and buyers packed into Marzotto’s Milan apartment for the initial press conference. On the other, many fashion observers could not fathom how a legendary French fashion house could be moved to Milan, run by an Italian, and designed by Rodolfo Paglialunga, an Italian designer who had worked for most of his career in Italy.

Liberty of London Menswear Spring 2010 | Source: Fashionisto

Liberty’s new owner sets out plans for growth (Guardian)
“Liberty’s new private equity owner BlueGem Capital, formed in 2006 by a group of former Merrill Lynch bankers… set out its plans for the department store group, which it described as ‘a national treasure’.”

Harrods Create Own-Brand Fashion to Revive Sales (Bloomberg)
“We have invested in all categories as we saw a white space that none of our vendor partners were addressing… Each season we edit our portfolio of resources and instead of filling with only other new brands, some of these dollars and floor space have gone to our own collection.”

Small brands can bite (Washington Post)
“Small brands can carve out a safe niche for themselves in an overcrowded fashion market, former Valentino chairman Matteo Marzotto said, adding that ideas count more than money in the crisis-hit luxury industry.”

Luxury Department Stores on Twitter (Fashion’s Collective)
“It’s been interesting to watch as more and more luxury brands and retailers get on the ‘Twitter train.’ In particular, [watching] how the department stores (amidst their complex organizations) are innovating in this space. Unfortunately, not all have gotten on board, but there are a few clear standouts.”

Looking for a New Elegance (IHT)
“That message echoes through the Paris shows as designers strive to meld — rather than contrast — tailoring and sportswear, liquid and linear, and to absorb the colors of garden and desert into the grey-blue city skyline.”

Palazzo Fendi, Rome | Source CPP-Luxury

The Future of Fendi: Hotels, Men’s line and F project (CPP-Luxury)
“Michael Burke, CEO of FENDI confirmed in a recent interview the relaunch in 2010 of the men’s line which was stopped earlier this year,” as well as the extension of the F Factory and a new hotel concept.

Replay majority stake bought by new investors (Drapers)
“An acquisition vehicle has bought a majority 60% stake in Fashion Box SpA the owner of denim brands Replay, We Are Replay and Replay & Sons denim. The acquisition vehicle, Equibox Holding, is controlled by Matteo and Massimo Sinigaglia, who were partners in the Replay footwear business, and Wolfgang Friedrichs, who was a partner in Replay’s German operation.”

Business Diary: Matteo Marzotto (FT)
“Matteo Marzotto spent 17 years at his family business, the Marzotto Group, most recently as president of Valentino, the fashion label the group bought in 2002. In 2008 he left Valentino after it was sold to Permira Private Equity, and purchased the fashion house Vionnet.”

Jaeger set sights on Europe (Drapers)
“Jaeger, the British heritage brand, is set to re-enter the European market after revealing sales are on an improving trend. Jaeger, which was bought by British Fashion Council chairman Harold Tillman in 2003 for a nominal sum, has reported a 9% rise in sales in the 14 weeks to December 11, after strong performances from its London flagship stores in Regent Street and Westfield shopping centre in West London.”

Grace Coddington: the Vogue visionary (Times)
“Even now, months after the release of The September Issue, this year’s cult hit about the making of the September 2007 edition of American Vogue, Grace Coddington, the magazine’s brilliant, but hitherto largely invisible creative director, says that at least five people come up to her on the subway every morning.”

Matteo Marzotto, courtesy of The Sartorialist

LONDON, United Kingdom — The recent news that Matteo Marzotto and Gianni Castiglioni have bought the Vionnet brand reminded me of the old saying about second marriages: a triumph of hope over experience. Arnaud de Lummen has already had a hand at reviving Vionnet, the classic couture brand, over the past few years, but has now moved on to other projects. (You can read all about it in BoF’s exclusive interview with de Lummen.)

In announcing the purchase of Vionnet, Marzotto said “I am convinced there is always room for projects that have at their core originality, energy and passion. With Vionnet I would like to bring back to life an idea of fashion that is contemporary without forgetting its history.” And, Marzotto is not the only one who thinks so.

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