Versace Mini Cabriolet gearshift detail | Source: Cartype

Restructuring Luxury at Versace (NY Times)
“I am a survivor,” the designer Donatella Versace said matter-of-factly during a recent blitz of New York, a visit that made it appear little had changed in the world of the occupationally fabulous.”

Escada sells Primera brands (Drapers)
“Primera comprises brands Laurèl, Apriori and Cavita. Luxury German womenswear house Escada previously signed a contract to sell the three brands to investment fund Mutares AG in May but withdrew from it on Friday, citing problems with the closing of the deal.”

Matthew Williamson to Launch Menswear and E-Commerce (Elle)
“The British designer best known for his colorful collections chock full of prints, is creating his first-ever menswear line. The collection, which is due out in February, will be sold exclusively at Harrods and Matthew Williamson boutiques.”

India, China Seen as Fertile Ground for Own Luxury Brands (Khaleej Times)
“Europe’s creative heartland for top-end jewellery, watches and fashion could, in as little as 20 years, face a stiff competitive challenge from India, China and other developing countries, executives in the luxury industry say.”

Pakistan fashion week defies Taliban with non-Islamic dress (Telegraph)
“As Pakistan’s army battled religious extremists in South Waziristan, Karachi’s top designers sent models down catwalks with bare shoulders and exposed navels in an unusual display of skin in a country where most women cover up.”

Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

‘We invented business casual’ (Globe and Mail)
“Still serious about suits, Brooks Brothers owner says storied firm is well-positioned to succeed in an increasingly dressed-down world.”

Burani Shares Halted as Auditor Cites ‘Uncertainties’ on Future (Bloomberg)
Mariella Burani Fashion Group, a licensee for Vivienne Westwood “was halted in Milan trading as the luxury-goods maker’s auditor cited “significant elements of uncertainty” about the business as a going concern after first-half sales fell.”

Star designers return to mark 25 years of London Fashion Week (Guardian)
“LFW has a strong reputation internationally as a launch pad for young talent – but also for being big on ideas but short on professionalism. Editors and buyers looking for commercial collections often skip the event, and London has struggled to keep its place as a world fashion capital.”

Just Williamson (Guardian)
“Adored by celebrities like Sienna Miller and Kate Moss, and creator of the much-copied boho look, Matthew Williamson has gone from teenage prodigy to world-famous designer in the classic rags-to-riches dream.”

The Main Characters of Tennis, and Style (New York Times)
“When Roger Federer unveiled his monogram at Wimbledon in 2006…it might easily have been mistaken for a club’s insignia. And it did in fact proclaim his admission to a club, one with a membership of two: Federer had joined Tiger Woods as the only other Nike athlete to be marketed on the basis of his initials.”

Mango ad campaign (Iran), courtesy of Mango

High fashion and Hollywood glamour as Mango open stores around the world (Times)
After a successful launch in Iran, Mango looks to move further into the Middle East, setting up a store in Irbil, Iraq.

Is luxury fashion good for the planet? (Observer)
“Premium brands don’t have the best reputation when it comes to social and environmental issues, but change is in the air.”

Matthew Williamson returns to London Fashion Week (Drapers)
“Matthew Williamson will join Burberry at London Fashion Week in September to help celebrate the event’s 25th birthday.”

Topshop confirms US roll out (Drapers)
“Sir Philip Green, the owner of Topshop, has confirmed he plans to open a second store in New York after the debut Manhattan store achieved strong sales in its first two months of trading.”

Adidas doesn’t want to run before learning to walk (Business Standard)
“Adidas, which launched its premium lifestyle product – Originals – in India two years ago, is still in the process of educating customers about the different story that the collections, represented by the Trefoil logo, has to tell vis-à-vis its regular ‘performance’ brands.”

Matthew Williamson, courtesy of H&M

H&M launches Matthew Williamson collection (Drapers)
“Hundreds of frenzied shoppers descended on H&M’s Oxford Circus store in London like locust this morning, eager to get their hands on a the Matthew Williamson collaboration.”

LVMH 1Q Revs Slightly Up On Fashion, Leather Goods (WSJ)
“French luxury conglomerate LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA Wednesday posted a modest rise in first-quarter revenue, as a fall in demand for champagne was more than offset by buoyantfashion and leather good sales.”

Japan’s Changing Fashion Retail Landscape: Innovate or Die (MarketWatch)
“Today, Japanese e-tail giants can make as much as one quarter of their sales via cellphones. Nearly half of Tokyo’s single females are accessing the mobile web more than five times a week.”

The pragmatic fashionista: Bonnie Brooks (The Globe&Mail)
After leaving Lane Crawford, Bonnie Brooks has grown into her position at Canada’s ailing department store, The Bay. “While there is plenty of skepticism among industry experts about the Bay, they agree that Ms. Brooks is one of few executives with the savvy to lead a turnaround.”

LONDON, United Kingdom – Yesterday evening’s British Fashion Awards ceremony was a wonderful occasion to celebrate the best in British Fashion Talent. There was a very impressive list of awards categories and an even more impressive list of winners, but I couldn’t fight this nagging feeling that something was missing.

Then, I realised that there was not even one award to acknowledge the various talented business people who also make their own kind of fashion magic, and are an essential part of the British fashion eco-system.

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As I looked out on the waiting crowd for Giles Deacon’s show last evening, there was something special in the air. Where else could you see wunderkind Gareth Pugh nestled next to Italian eccentric Anna Piaggi and Vogue’s Hamish Bowles and a raft of other notable fashion names, all crammed into a tiny space in a small schoolhouse waiting for a fashion show to start? No New York designer of similar repute would even think of forcing the fashion A-list into this cramped setting. But then again, the fashion A-list probably wouldn’t even bother turning up to a show in a similarly  uncomfortable setting for a New York designer.

London fashion is officially hot again.  And, this time it’s not just hype. Many of the New York collections were well-executed and wearable, but they were limited in terms of new ideas and came off feeling a bit flat. London has thrown this flatness into sharp relief. There has been a renewed sense of confidence about fashion in London this week, yet there could be a lot more reflection on why things haven’t worked out for London in the past after other short-lived periods of creative renaissance — and a great deal of this has to do with the business of fashion, not the creative side.

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