MILAN, Italy — Burberry has packed up for London, abandoning Milan after a decade of menswear fealty. Giorgio Armani has scolded Italian designers who regularly show in other fashion capitals. And Donatella Versace even called for a fashion summit in a bid for unity.
This season, no single moment dominated the fashion conversation. But there was still lots to talk about. Today, BoF brings you our bi-annual post-fashion month feature, The Season That Was.
Designers kicked off Milan fashion week on Wednesday with bold collections to persuade Italian shoppers that the worst of the economic crisis is over and it is time to hit the stores again. Fashion houses including PPR’s Gucci, Giorgio Armani and Prada are among the top names showing their womenswear 2013-14 autumn-winter collections, taking up the baton from catwalk shows in London. “I have great hopes for this country
Will Prada Finally Succumb to Global Luxury Slowdown? (CNBC) “Italian fashion house Prada has been a bright spot in a slowing global luxury retail space, and its latest earnings report underscores the resilience. The company delivered another set of solid earnings on Tuesday — first-half net profit surged 60 percent to 286 million euros ($372 milion), thanks to demand from Asian spenders.” Let There Be Light (IHT)
PARIS, France — The fashion world is in a tizzy. Ever since the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) laid down the gauntlet, scheduling next autumn’s Milan Fashion Week from September 19th to 24th, a massive rift has emerged amongst the fashion fraternity. New York Fashion Week, organised by the Council for Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), is scheduled to start on the 13th of September and conclude on the 20th. London
Battle of the catwalks as Milan clashes fashion week with London (Telegraph) “Milan has announced that its fashion week next September will overlap those of New York and London, meaning that if no solution can be found, department store buyers and fashion magazine editors would be forced to choose one city over another.” Burberry slumps on fears of end to Asian boom (Guardian) “Shares in the British superbrand Burberry took a
Yelling ‘Fire’ on a Crowded Runway (NY Times) “Without question, we can count on Miuccia Prada, Raf Simons at Jil Sander, Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi and, at times, Tomas Maier of Bottega Veneta to say something with fashion, and not just offer approachable clothes. But there should be many more designers in Milan with that driving ambition. Otherwise, the future of fashion will be in jeopardy.” LVMH says it controls 98.09
Gucci at 90: ‘Hard Deco’ (IHT) “The Gucci designer Frida Giannini, celebrating the brand’s 90th year, certainly sent out a polished and upscale collection, with shiny metallic surfaces and a focus on jazzy evening outfits — even if they were inspired by the 1920s, when flappers danced up to the edge of the Great Depression.” Milan fashion picks glam over gloom (Reuters) “Designers have prepared a
In Milan, Trying to Leap the Obstacles (NY Times) “Maybe reality is always too unreal without time to reflect, but the problem now seems acute for designers. Many say they don’t have time to design in the traditional sense: exploring new fabrics and shapes. Some have unusual corporate pressures. Their instinct, then, is not to look around them but to adapt the myths of the last few hundred years, be they Mods, flappers or
Surface Attraction (IHT) “Sculpted shapes, clean lines and modernist architecture — why is the fashion ‘streamlining’ of today any different from its previous incarnations of the 1930s to the 1990s?… The answer lies on the surface. A combination of hyper-modern fabrics and imaginative decoration is giving 21st-century style a third dimension.” Galliano counter-sues over racist allegations (FT)
Chloe Sevigny interviews Proenza Schouler (Interview Magazine) “It has been nearly nine years since Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez-both 23 and fresh out of design school… Their almost instantaneous rise through the realms of the fashion world as Proenza Schouler-seemingly so unscripted that they hardly had a business model when they began-is the stuff of lightning New York success stories.” Prada
Sleek and Luxe (IHT) “‘I wanted to play with color, a little of the 1970s and a lot of irony,’ said Ms. Giannini backstage, after the parade of fabulous Ms. Fox furs in turquoise, purple, rust and lilac wrapped around the shoulders above slim leather dresses or those sporty jackets with pleated culotte skirts that looked a lot like Yves Saint Laurent archives updated.” The Kiddie Couturiers (NY Times)