Right direction, BCBG struggle, Behind the catwalk, Big Bucks at NYFW, Sarah Mower on London’s rise

Derek Lam Autumn/Winter 2012 | Source: NY Times

Things Turn in the Right Direction (NY Times) “As if by agreement, or maybe decree by the empress herself, Diane Von Furstenberg, the dreariness that had settled over the first days of the fall shows vanished on Sunday with collections full of great clothes in vibrant colors… Zac Posen also sent out a good collection, rich in color, though stuck in a lady-as-a-vamp time warp.” BCBG’s Off-the-Runway Struggles (WSJ)

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Spring/Summer 2012 | The Season That Was

LONDON, United Kingdom — It was a fashion season of extreme weather. After the New York Fashion Week schedule was upended, first by an earthquake and then by the State of Emergency declaration that came courtesy of Hurricane Irene, an unprecedented heat wave in Paris threw buyers, editors and bloggers into a wardrobe tailspin. The American editors were worst off, having packed for the European shows two weeks before Paris with no

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CEO Talk | Steven Kolb, Chief Executive Officer, Council of Fashion Designers of America

Steven Kolb | Photo: Carly Otness/BFAnyc.com

PARIS, France — The fashion world is in a tizzy. Ever since the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) laid down the gauntlet, scheduling next autumn’s Milan Fashion Week from September 19th to 24th, a massive rift has emerged amongst the fashion fraternity. New York Fashion Week, organised by the Council for Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), is scheduled to start on the 13th of September and conclude on the 20th. London

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Women of Wang, Hermann to Reed Krakoff, Nordstrom to buy HauteLook, CNN fashion, Digital fashion moment

Alexander Wang's dance party | Source: Modelinia

Women of Wang (New York Magazine) “He’s built an approximately $25 million business on cool but benign day-into-night clothes for lithe, pragmatic downtown girls who all appear to work in galleries or PR… anything vaguely “creative.” Wang synthesized the street-style-blog-derived notion of looking like a “model off duty,” a louche fantasy of effortlessly sexy living if ever there was one.” Reed Krakoff Names

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Big changes at Gucci Group, Behind the Marc, Hermès to LVMH: Cut stake, Rent the Runway, Cast your vote for Calgary

Preparing for the Marc Jacobs show | Source: NY Times

PPR Chief to Run Gucci Himself (NY Times) “The French luxury magnate François-Henri Pinault said… he would personally take charge of Gucci Group as he reorganizes its parent company to focus on the most profitable businesses. Robert Polet, who has headed Gucci since 2004, will be stepping down in a few weeks… Mr. Pinault also said Paul Deneve would replace Valérie Hermann as chief executive of Yves Saint

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On the straight and narrow, Buying runway looks, Puma feels the pinch, Singer talks T, Anna Wintour on McQueen

L-R Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Theyskens’ Theory | Source: Style.com

On the Straight and Narrow (IHT) “It is back to the straight and narrow in New York Fashion Week. No more loose and sloppy casual clothes, easy sportswear or girlish frills. Women — grown-up women — are being asked to smarten up.” Who Buys These Clothes? They Do (WSJ) “Many of the runway styles are actually purchased by a small group of customers, not all of them from the isle of Manhattan. And unlike celebrities

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Accessible Neiman Marcus, NYFW’s many platforms, Luxury deals, Charlotte Olympia, Rosita Missoni speaks

Karen Katz, CEO Neiman Marcus | Source: 123 Nonstop

Neiman Marcus Opens Customer Door Wider (WSJ) “With its extravagant Christmas catalog and the wealthiest customer base in American retailing, Neiman Marcus Group has, for more than a century, earned its snob appeal. But after a recession that cost the company $1 billion in annual revenue, the new chief executive officer, Karen Katz, is on a mission to make the chain a bit more inclusive.” More Than Meets the iPhone Lens

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Outerwear in focus, Wisdom of crowds, Artisanal touches, Condé Nast Newsstand, Carine Roitfeld on fashion’s future

Alexander Wang Autumn/Winter 2011 | Source: Style.com

Addicted to Love (IHT) “New York Fashion Week seems to be ‘Addicted to Love,’ as the sound track puts it. But a new generation of twentysomething designers has a tougher, less hearts-and-flowers way of dealing with romance, and more fashion sense about practical needs for the autumn 2011 season after the current harsh winter.” The ‘in’ crowd (FT) “Forget dictating the trends, these days brands are

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Retail versatility, Vuitton tops ranking, D&G mentorship, Lincoln Center vs. Bryant Park, Mulberry’s Emma Hill

Prabal Gurung Spring/Summer 2011 Runway | Source: Style.com

Stores Cheer Versatile Designs (WSJ) “Nearly two years after the bottom fell out of the luxury business, retailers are selectively increasing their spending budgets, targeting fashions their core customers will splurge on and key pieces that the still-wary aspirational consumers will find compelling to buy.” Louis Vuitton tops fashion brand rankings (Just Style) “The LVMH-owned label maintained its 16th place in

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British billions, Runway to retail, Dazed Digital relaunch, Betsey Johnson goes Facebook Places, Fashion theatre

London Fashion Week tent at Somerset House | Source: FashionSpot

British fashion industry now worth nearly £21bn a year (Guardian) “The research highlights not only the direct impact of the fashion industry, including wholesale, retail and manufacturing, on the economy but also its effect on other industries including financial services and tourism.” From Runway to Retail (WSJ) “After a New York Fashion Week of dramatic and extreme, if gorgeous, clothes strutting down the

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Seventies glamour returns, Wearability wins out, All Saints American invasion, Neimans narrows loss, Fashion truck

Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2011 Runway | Source: Style.com

Down From the Stratosphere, Gaga-Free (NY Times) “Fashion is having a post-crash dress-up fix. As if to tune out the futurists and the sportswear revivalists, and maybe have a little more fun, designers are fluffing hair, adding giant orchids and evoking the heady mauve warmth of an Antonio Lopez drawing.” The W Word: Fashion Tries Wearability (WSJ) “To designers at New York Fashion Week, ‘wearable’

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Tom Ford’s glamorous coup, Turning up the value, Playgrounds as runways, Measuring social content, The Céline factor

Tom Ford by Terry Richardson | Source: Tom Ford

Glamorously, Tom Ford Is Back (NY Times) “Explaining why he didn’t allow pictures, Mr. Ford said that fashion had become overexposed in recent years… ‘I want fashion to be fun again… You couldn’t wait to get the clothes and put them on, and I think we’ve lost that.’” Luxury-Goods Firms Turn Up Volume on Value (WSJ) “Luxury-goods retailers are coming to grips with the reality that

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