Big changes at Gucci Group, Behind the Marc, Hermès to LVMH: Cut stake, Rent the Runway, Cast your vote for Calgary

Preparing for the Marc Jacobs show | Source: NY Times

PPR Chief to Run Gucci Himself (NY Times) “The French luxury magnate François-Henri Pinault said… he would personally take charge of Gucci Group as he reorganizes its parent company to focus on the most profitable businesses. Robert Polet, who has headed Gucci since 2004, will be stepping down in a few weeks… Mr. Pinault also said Paul Deneve would replace Valérie Hermann as chief executive of Yves Saint

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On the straight and narrow, Buying runway looks, Puma feels the pinch, Singer talks T, Anna Wintour on McQueen

L-R Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Theyskens’ Theory | Source: Style.com

On the Straight and Narrow (IHT) “It is back to the straight and narrow in New York Fashion Week. No more loose and sloppy casual clothes, easy sportswear or girlish frills. Women — grown-up women — are being asked to smarten up.” Who Buys These Clothes? They Do (WSJ) “Many of the runway styles are actually purchased by a small group of customers, not all of them from the isle of Manhattan. And unlike celebrities

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Accessible Neiman Marcus, NYFW’s many platforms, Luxury deals, Charlotte Olympia, Rosita Missoni speaks

Karen Katz, CEO Neiman Marcus | Source: 123 Nonstop

Neiman Marcus Opens Customer Door Wider (WSJ) “With its extravagant Christmas catalog and the wealthiest customer base in American retailing, Neiman Marcus Group has, for more than a century, earned its snob appeal. But after a recession that cost the company $1 billion in annual revenue, the new chief executive officer, Karen Katz, is on a mission to make the chain a bit more inclusive.” More Than Meets the iPhone Lens

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Outerwear in focus, Wisdom of crowds, Artisanal touches, Condé Nast Newsstand, Carine Roitfeld on fashion’s future

Alexander Wang Autumn/Winter 2011 | Source: Style.com

Addicted to Love (IHT) “New York Fashion Week seems to be ‘Addicted to Love,’ as the sound track puts it. But a new generation of twentysomething designers has a tougher, less hearts-and-flowers way of dealing with romance, and more fashion sense about practical needs for the autumn 2011 season after the current harsh winter.” The ‘in’ crowd (FT) “Forget dictating the trends, these days brands are

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Retail versatility, Vuitton tops ranking, D&G mentorship, Lincoln Center vs. Bryant Park, Mulberry’s Emma Hill

Prabal Gurung Spring/Summer 2011 Runway | Source: Style.com

Stores Cheer Versatile Designs (WSJ) “Nearly two years after the bottom fell out of the luxury business, retailers are selectively increasing their spending budgets, targeting fashions their core customers will splurge on and key pieces that the still-wary aspirational consumers will find compelling to buy.” Louis Vuitton tops fashion brand rankings (Just Style) “The LVMH-owned label maintained its 16th place in

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British billions, Runway to retail, Dazed Digital relaunch, Betsey Johnson goes Facebook Places, Fashion theatre

London Fashion Week tent at Somerset House | Source: FashionSpot

British fashion industry now worth nearly £21bn a year (Guardian) “The research highlights not only the direct impact of the fashion industry, including wholesale, retail and manufacturing, on the economy but also its effect on other industries including financial services and tourism.” From Runway to Retail (WSJ) “After a New York Fashion Week of dramatic and extreme, if gorgeous, clothes strutting down the

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Seventies glamour returns, Wearability wins out, All Saints American invasion, Neimans narrows loss, Fashion truck

Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2011 Runway | Source: Style.com

Down From the Stratosphere, Gaga-Free (NY Times) “Fashion is having a post-crash dress-up fix. As if to tune out the futurists and the sportswear revivalists, and maybe have a little more fun, designers are fluffing hair, adding giant orchids and evoking the heady mauve warmth of an Antonio Lopez drawing.” The W Word: Fashion Tries Wearability (WSJ) “To designers at New York Fashion Week, ‘wearable’

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Tom Ford’s glamorous coup, Turning up the value, Playgrounds as runways, Measuring social content, The Céline factor

Tom Ford by Terry Richardson | Source: Tom Ford

Glamorously, Tom Ford Is Back (NY Times) “Explaining why he didn’t allow pictures, Mr. Ford said that fashion had become overexposed in recent years… ‘I want fashion to be fun again… You couldn’t wait to get the clothes and put them on, and I think we’ve lost that.’” Luxury-Goods Firms Turn Up Volume on Value (WSJ) “Luxury-goods retailers are coming to grips with the reality that

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Jimmy Choo preps for IPO, Women lead recovery, Twitter talk, Holt Renfrew gets friendly, New faces

Jimmy Choo takes steps to possible IPO (FT) "The private equity owner of Jimmy Choo plans to appoint investment banks to advise on strategic options for the maker of stilettos for the stars, including a possible initial public offering valuing the company at about £500m." Affluent, Generous Young Women Lead Recovery (Marketing Daily) "When it comes to power-shopping our way toward economic recovery, a new report from American Express says well-heeled young women are leading the charge." Should luxury brands use twitter? (Luxury Society) "Luxury is an intricate web of emotions... can it be captured in 140 characters (and that too with a shortened link of some sort if the company is trying to drive some traffic to a specific…

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Betting on E-commerce, Painting Pringle, Sak’s Sadove sits down, Bar code check-in, Saboteur’s geek chic

Handmade apparel on Etsy by Qinliumei | Source: Etsy

Why e-commerce IPOs will soon be the smarter buy (Venture Beat) “In Silicon Valley, market-watchers are looking to digital media in its many forms — social networks, tablet apps, user-generated content — to revive the IPO market… But there’s a smarter bet for investors: e-commerce.” Pringle of Scotland: painting by jumpers (Telegraph) “To celebrate Pringle’s 195th birthday, it has partnered with the

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New York Fashion Week | Of Fashion Prequels and Sequels

Gareth Pugh Spring Summer 2010 Film Installation

NEW YORK, United States — In recent seasons, digital fashion film has been gaining momentum as an emotionally charged and cost-effective presentation format. But this season is the first time designers have started using film in a way that tightly complements their runway shows and lets them extend their presence across multiple fashion weeks, in different geographic markets. Yesterday evening, English enfant terrible Gareth Pugh,

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Autumn/Winter 2009 | The season that was

The Balmain Shoulder, courtesy of Coutorture

PARIS, France — As the Autumn/Winter 2009 collections draw to a close, it’s time to share some impressions of the fashion week season that was. Yes, there were some amazing fashions to behold, in particular Lanvin (which unfortunately I did not see in person), Junya Watanabe and Rick Owens in Paris, Christopher Kane and Erdem in London, and Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler in New York. There were also some delightful new

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New York Fashion Week | Cleansing the Palate

Yohji Yamamoto, Pied Piper of New York Fashion Week

NEW YORK, United States — New York Fashion Week is always a blur of meetings, shows and parties, and this week is no exception. But there is also something different in the air for Autumn/Winter 2009 — a palpable sense that some serious change is coming, and in some quarters, the slightest hint of optimism that we may be reaching a market bottom. On Monday evening, Marc Jacobs scaled back his show significantly: there was no major

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