New York Fashion Week | Of Fashion Prequels and Sequels

Gareth Pugh Spring Summer 2010 Film Installation

NEW YORK, United States — In recent seasons, digital fashion film has been gaining momentum as an emotionally charged and cost-effective presentation format. But this season is the first time designers have started using film in a way that tightly complements their runway shows and lets them extend their presence across multiple fashion weeks, in different geographic markets. Yesterday evening, English enfant terrible Gareth Pugh,

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Autumn/Winter 2009 | The season that was

The Balmain Shoulder, courtesy of Coutorture

PARIS, France — As the Autumn/Winter 2009 collections draw to a close, it’s time to share some impressions of the fashion week season that was. Yes, there were some amazing fashions to behold, in particular Lanvin (which unfortunately I did not see in person), Junya Watanabe and Rick Owens in Paris, Christopher Kane and Erdem in London, and Marc Jacobs and Proenza Schouler in New York. There were also some delightful new

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New York Fashion Week | Cleansing the Palate

Yohji Yamamoto, Pied Piper of New York Fashion Week

NEW YORK, United States — New York Fashion Week is always a blur of meetings, shows and parties, and this week is no exception. But there is also something different in the air for Autumn/Winter 2009 — a palpable sense that some serious change is coming, and in some quarters, the slightest hint of optimism that we may be reaching a market bottom. On Monday evening, Marc Jacobs scaled back his show significantly: there was no major

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Japanese economy shrinks, H&M sales up, Sombre and 80s in New York, Forever 21 expands concept

The Japanese Flag

Japan’s economy shrinks 3.3% (IHT) The world’s second largest economy is experiencing its worst downturn in 35 years. H&M sales boosted by new openings (Drapers) Driven by new store openings, H&M’s sales rose 9% in January. Sombre start to NYFW (Drapers) “New York Fashion Week got off to a somewhat sombre start on Friday, according to reports from the US, with collection sizes reduced by up to

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New York Fashion Week | Designers serve up dark moodiness and optimistic colour

NEW YORK, United States — From the moment that I landed here in New York, the mood has been decidedly sombre. I bumped into a buyer from a major London fashion boutique at the baggage carousel at JFK who told me that “nobody is coming” to New York this time from the major UK fashion magazines. Budgets have been completely slashed. A few hours later, the CEO of a up-and-coming US fashion business predicted that one third

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Online balancing act, End of the runway, Label survival, Nike’s restructuring plans

Fendi Website, photo courtesy of the Wall Street Journal

Karl Lagerfeld Discusses Luxury Internet Sales with European Commission (WSJ) “The explosion of online retailing leaves fashion houses with a difficult balancing act between exclusive image and exposure.” Fashion Sees The End Of The Runway (Forbes) “The catwalk’s diminishing presence doesn’t come as a major surprise considering how much the role of the runway has changed over the years.” Inside a

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Emerging Designers | Rad Hourani’s Razor Focus

Rad Hourani Spring/Summer 2009, courtesy of Rad Hourani

MONTRÉAL, Canada – It’s been a year since BoF last spoke with stylist-turned-designer Rad Hourani. Since then, his collection has been taken on by fashion-forward boutiques Joyce and IT in China, Cache in Bulgaria, Seven Boutique in New York, and Canada’s Holt Renfrew and Reborn. All the while Hourani has continued to use photography and film to express his razor-focused personal aesthetic, built around the colour

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Saks’ pricing, Runway change, Indian retail squeeze, Show must go on in New York

From left to right: Sean Connery in a Louis Vuitton ad; Hunter wellies; a model at Prada's recent menswear show; a Coach bag; a sketch from Rebecca Taylor's fall 2009 collection, Photo courtesy of The Wall Street Journal

Saks Upends Luxury Market With Strategy to Slash Prices (WSJ) Saks’ deep discounting before the holiday season will have a long-term effect on the consumer psychology. Fashion Walks a Fine Line (WSJ) During New York Fashion week, you’ll see dour and spunky on the runways, the magic blend that will court customers. Retailers feel credit squeeze in India (FT) “India’s biggest discount retailer said that

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Make or break New York fashion week, Zara in India, Monique Lhuillier, Lauder cuts jobs

aniel Silver and Steven Cox of Duckie Brown; Lisa Mayock of Vena Cava; Andrew Buckler; Sophie Buhai, photo courtesy of the New York Times

The Make or Break Season (New York Times) “The age of the young designer, however, may be coming to an end.” Zara’s Inditex latest to join the stampede to open India stores (The Spectator) Zara, the Spanish fast fashion chain, will open in India. Monique Lhuillier’s New Lower-Priced Gowns (WSJ) Responding to the requests of retailers, Monique Lhuillier will now offer evening gowns that will retail around $2,500. Lauder

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Vacancies on Madison Avenue, Mango’s sales up, Response to NYFW move, Berlin Fashion Week

Scene on Madison Avenue, photo courtesy of the New York Times.

On Madison Avenue, Shops Pack Their Hand-Tooled Bags (New York Times) “New York’s most elegant shopping corridor, the Gold Coast of Madison Avenue, from 57th Street to 72nd Street, is pockmarked with vacancies as retailers flee sky-high rents.” Mango’s sales rise 8% (Drapers) Beating the downward retail trend, Mango’s sales rise 8 percent. Industry Reacts to Lincoln Center Move (WWD) Lincoln Center’s

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Murjani divests Gucci, Luxury succumbs to cycle, Choo’s schools, New home for NYFW, Macy’s cuts staff

Gucci spring / summer '09

Murjani to divest Gucci stores in India (Economic Times) In an effort to recoup investments he’s made in the luxury sector, Mohan Murjani plans to divest the operations of Gucci in India. Luxury goods succumb to the cycle (FT) Despite some views to the contrary, the luxury industry is proving to be prone to cyclical ups and downs. Malaysian shoe guru Jimmy Choo plans teaching academies (Yahoo) “Malaysian-born luxury

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