Shanghai Tang Autumn/Winter 2011 | Source: Shanghai Tang

Can China Produce A Luxury Brand? (Forbes)
“China is more known as a luxury consumer rather than a producer. And while it is a manufacturing hub for many global labels and retailers, it has yet to produce its own luxury brand in the manner of Hermes or Louis Vuitton. True, it took centuries for Hermes and Louis Vuitton to become what they are today, but these questions begged to be asked: Are there Chinese labels that are poised to become the Hermes of tomorrow?”

Oscar de la Renta to Launch F-Commerce (WWD)
“Oscar de la Renta is the first luxury brand to launch a Facebook commerce, or F-commerce, initiative contained entirely on the social medium where it has over 283,000 followers… It is the first to offer a commerce experience from beginning to end without leaving Facebook. In fact, the whole transaction can be done either on a tab on the brand’s page or, if the user prefers, without even leaving his or her newsfeed.”

Adidas raises 2011 outlook on emerging markets (Reuters)
“Germany’s Adidas lifted its 2011 sales outlook on strong demand for its sporting goods in emerging markets and as it expands its high margin brand-name stores… This is the fourth time this year Adidas has upgraded its sales forecast as demand for its three-stripe branded products soars, with running shoes and fashion products proving especially popular with U.S. and Chinese consumers.”

Fitted Fashion Uses 3D Scanners to Create Custom-Fit Jeans (Mashable)
“The single most challenging item of clothing to shop for is jeans… Fitted Fashion, a recent graduate of startup incubator Betaspring, is one of several startups aiming to address that problem. The company is currently testing 3D body scanners alongside its own pattern-making software to develop custom jeans and suits, among other items.”

Prabal Gurung: the red carpet’s new darling (Telegraph)
“You may not recognise the name, but we’re sure you will have seen one of Prabal Gurung’s designs before. The New York based designer has slipped under the radar for a few years now, but he is finally having his moment in the limelight… It has only been in the last twelve months that celebrities have been clambering over themselves to wear Gurung on the red carpet.”

The Fashion Twitterati | Source: DKNY and Oscar de la Renta

NEW YORK, United States — To tweet, or not to tweet. That has been the question on many fashion business minds over the past year. Not every brand needs a Twitter account, but if a brand does decide to stake out a presence on Twitter, they should do so with a clear plan in mind and a voice that is consistent with the brand, while also opening up a new point of view. Most of all, Twitter should be a tool for engagement with a brand’s fans and followers.

That is all easier said than done. Some brands on Twitter don’t follow anybody else and only broadcast information out, which is the schoolyard equivalent of talking all the time, while shutting your eyes and ears and not listening to anybody else. You don’t make many friends that way. Then there are the brands that set up a Twitter account, and then fail to keep it active, which is kind of like inviting a brand’s fans to a big event, and then not showing up to greet them. It 0nly serves to disappoint fans and followers. Still other brands require tweets to be ‘approved’ by legal and PR departments, which takes away from the spontaneous, real time nature of Twitter.

Thankfully, there are a few fashion businesses that are doing it right. They have found ways of communicating about their brand that have caught the attention of tens of thousands of followers, and more importantly, have made those followers feel like part of the brand’s online community.

BoF sought out three of the most prolific and successful fashion twitterers, and for the very first time, spoke to the people behind fashion’s greatest tweets to learn from their success.

DONNA KARAN and DKNY

@DKNY — A true innovator, the reigning queen of the fashion Twitterati, DKNY PR girl has built a huge following amongst fashion fans for her honest opinions and behind-the-scenes peeks into the PR department of one of New York’s most celebrated fashion brands.

Name: Undisclosed
Age: A gentleman should never ask a lady her age
Number of months with DKNY: Too many to count
Number of months tweeting: 21
Followers: 240,000+

How did you get selected to be the voice of DKNY on Twitter?

When we decided to start on Twitter we wanted it to be very transparent. This was not someone speaking as the “voice” of the brand. This was not someone speaking as Donna Karan. @dkny is very uniquely my view as a PR person at Donna Karan International. As part of our decision to pursue this, I showed my colleagues several examples of what I would tweet – ranging from highlighting some of our best new products to giving some insight into our lives here “behind the scenes” — and they liked it. They were a great initial focus group, but I feel so gratified that we have received so much support from our followers. It is great to be able to engage with people who love our brands.

What was your strategy for building up a loyal following?

I am a social person by nature. What I have tried to do is combine all that is Donna Karan and DKNY with some fun, quick commentary my followers can relate to. I don’t think setting out to secure a following works – it’s an organic evolution.

How would you describe your voice?

Unedited, honest, lightly (sometimes heavily) sarcastic, friendly and engaging.

What is the best success story you can share of a business benefit that has come as a result of your Twitter presence?

I am very fortunate to have amazing, interactive and loyal followers. So many of them do my job for me. I lovingly call them #DKNYPRGirl’sTeam (we’re making T-shirts). They will search out product links from donnakaran.com or dkny.com or press on the brands and tweet about them even before I do.

Who are your 5 favourite fellow Twitterers to follow?

There are too many to count. I actually follow more than 400 fellow Twitterers. If you visit my profile, you will see a lot of the people I follow love the same things I do… there are a lot of fashionistas out there.

What makes a ‘good’ Twitter account — what are your parameters for success?

I don’t think Twitter success is weighed only in number of followers. I think it can also be judged by how often you are recommended to be followed.

Why did DKNY decide that Twitter was a communication tool that made sense for the brand/business?

As a brand, you need to reach people where they are and interact with them in the ways they interact with each other. The fact that over 240,000 people follow me shows that our customers are indeed on Twitter themselves.

Was it difficult to get buy-in from senior management to go down this route?

No. From day one, our management was excited about it, as they recognized that Twitter was another way that we could engage with our customers. They also showed a lot of foresight, because they knew it would only work if I could be real, unedited and write what I know… and a lot of what I know is the world of Donna Karan.

Our management has been very forward thinking about the power of digital and social media overall. Besides being active on Twitter, we were one of the first brands to have iPhone apps (we have two actually, one devoted entirely to the DKNY Cozy and one for Donna Karan New York. We stream our fashion shows on Facebook, we’ve created a number of videos featuring stars such as Christina Ricci on our website. Just a month ago we launched donnakaran.com as ecommerce and relaunched dkny.com, to offer full brand experiences. On this joint site, content meets social media and commerce in unique ways. There is enormous excitement about it across our Company. That is why it is great to work here – the creativity, the innovation and the recognition that the success of our brands lies in the people that love them.

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BERGDORF GOODMAN

@Bergdorfs — A Twitter voice for one of the world’s most venerated department stores from one of its youngest staffers, Bergdorf Goodman’s Twitter feed has made the sometimes stuffy Fifth Avenue staple more open and welcoming, especially to a younger, more digitally connected consumer.

Name: Cannon, Social Media Manager
Age: 20s
Number of months with Bergdorf Goodman: 60 – or 5 years
Number of months tweeting: 11
Followers: 33,000+

How did you get selected to be the voice of Bergdorf Goodman on Twitter?

My job is to share the Bergdorf Buzz. It all started when I worked in our Special Events department and helped maintain our Facebook page. We understood the importance of social platforms and what was being said there; so, when the company decided to dedicate someone full time to those efforts, I became our Social Media Manager. I started tweeting in January – it really is the best part.

What was your strategy for building up a loyal following?

I’m their friend…I’m always there to listen and help – and to give an insider’s perspective (whether it’s interviewing Victoria Beckham, going behind the scenes with our Visual team, attending Fashion Week…or getting happily distracted by something new and fabulous in our Shoe Salon).

How would you describe your voice?

Enthusiastic. Sincere. Honest. Fun.

What is the best success story you can share of a business benefit that has come as a result of your Twitter presence?

Twitter has made us aware of an entirely different audience. They’re enthusiastic but honest… and they love to communicate with us. Impeccable customer service has always been our priority – and having the opportunity to listen to and assist clients from Twitter has proven incredibly useful in making that happen.

Twitter also has enabled me to bring the Bergdorf Goodman experience to life… in a very new way. There’s only one Bergdorf Goodman in the world, so I am their direct line of communication. Our Fifth Avenue New York address means that we always have so much going on, whether it’s designers visiting, new collections arriving or exciting new exclusive merchandise; and Twitter is an excellent way to instantly share all of this news from an insider’s perspective. Think of it this way: Even if you’ve never visited Bergdorf Goodman in person but follow Bergdorfs on Twitter, you’ll know that we had a Holiday Windows Challenge with Polyvore, carry four different styles of Texting Gloves and were very excited to introduce Roger Vivier’s Miss Viv handbag collection with Inès de la Fressange.

Who are your 5 favourite fellow Twitterers to follow?

It changes weekly – but those who currently make me click might include @stefanogabbana (& his uninhibited use of exclamation points), @Peter_Som, @evachen212, @ManRepeller and @askmrmickey.

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OSCAR DE LA RENTA

@Oscar PR Girl – The magic of Oscar de la Renta comes alive via the tweets from its Director of Communications, who not only provides insights into the workings of this brand, but even dresses up in Oscar’s clothes to preview them for her thousands of followers.

Name: Erika Bearman, Director of Communications
Age: 29
Number of months with Oscar de la Renta: 27
Number of months tweeting: 18
Followers: 27,000+

How did you become the voice of ODLR on Twitter?

The specific idea for OscarPRGirl came from Alex Bolen, our CEO. The premise was simple: I would write about my experience of working in PR for Oscar de la Renta, the aspects of our brand that I thought others might find interesting, and my fashion-centric life in New York City.

What was your strategy for building up a loyal following?

I got started on Twitter by thinking: how can I bring our followers inside of the work that we do, and make them a part it? How can I tell the story of Oscar de la Renta? Then I just started talking. I was, and am still, hoping to tell a group of people a little more about a designer and a brand that they might know, or perhaps already admire. I think it’s interesting to share the details that make me feel connected to my work, like hearing Oscar whistling from his studio, or the tracklist from a recent show. In the process, I have tried to be a compelling storyteller- someone you want to listen to.

How would you describe your voice?

A little bit bold, kind of glamorous, and ultimately lighthearted. Oscar always asks that all elements of our brand, from the clothes to our advertising, convey a sense of joy- I hope that our Twitter has a dose of that same spirit.

What is the best success story you can share of a business benefit that has come as a result of your Twitter presence?

Recently one of my followers was trying on our wedding gowns at Bergdorf Goodman, tweeting me pictures from the dressing room and asking my opinion. We both loved the same one: a guipure lace and ostrich feather embroidered gown. She purchased it. I thought it was interesting because it was an impact at the store level vs. e-commerce. Essentially, I was in the dressing room with her.

Who are your 5 favorite fellow Twitterers to follow?

@mashable and @techcrunch because a girl has to stay on top of these things, @johnjannuzzi because he is smart and angsty, @bergdorfs because I think she is great at it, and @therealdaphne because we both live in a world without flats.

Imran Amed is Founder and Editor of The Business of Fashion

Marion Cotillard in 'Lady Blue Shanghai' by David Lynch | Source: ladydior.com

Leading fashion brands entice China’s nouveau riche (Guardian)
“Thanks to its booming economy, numerous high-profile fashion houses have announced their intention to expand operations on the Chinese mainland… Burberry has confirmed that it will add 66 stores to its current 44 Chinese outlets by 2012.”

U.S. luxury brands may slow European growth (Reuters)
“European expansion plans for top U.S. luxury brands may stall in the short term over fears of a simmering debt crisis on the continent… fears over shrinking consumer demand would give these companies pause before opening new outlets.”

Full luxury recovery still fuzzy (Reuters)
“The world’s wealthiest consumers kept their taste for expensive goods through a global downturn, but their more middle-class compatriots still striving for the good life may take years to return, if ever.”

Oscar de la Renta on Live-streaming and Twitter (WWD)
“Oscar de la Renta is taking the plunge: On Monday at 1 p.m., the designer’s 2011 resort runway show will broadcast in real time on the company’s live-stream channel.”

Hubert de Givenchy: ‘It was always my dream to be a dress designer’ (Independent)
“Hubert de Givenchy is one of the last great masters of haute couture. In a rare interview, he tells Carola Long about craftsmanship – and his muse, Audrey Hepburn.”

Emilio Pucci in his workshop, 1950s | Source: Life in Italy

Without the Prints, Can It Still Be a Pucci? (WSJ)
“Under the hand of designer Peter Dundas, the six-decade-old fashion house is reinventing itself as an It brand. In the process, it is shifting its emphasis from kaleidoscopic cruisewear to cocktail dresses and sweeping gowns.”

Oscar de la Renta continues expansion (Reuters)
“‘We continue to offer, and continue to sell, $20,000-plus off-the-rack women’s evening gowns… On the other hand… a blouse that might have sold for $1,000 three years ago may now sell for $500.’”

Luxury sector to see niche deals (Reuters)
“The next aspiring Marc Jacobs or Stella McCartney may find it harder to get financial backing as luxury dealmakers target well-established brands for growth and top design houses begin paring smaller assets.”

Online, luxury strong, but apparel off (Reuters)
“Luxury items, jewelry and products sold online were the fastest-growing U.S. sales categories in the retail sector in May, but weakness in apparel and electronics suggest consumers may still be wary in their spending.”

CSM’s Graduate Show: The Clothes, The Designers, The Stars (Fashionista)
“London’s Central St. Martins College of Art served up 40 of its most promising talents to industry recruiters… With inflating Helmut Newton inspired pieces and a show-closing collection modeled on stilts, this was undoubtedly one for the books.”

Matthew Williamson for H&M, courtesy of H&M

H&M’s 8% April Comparable Sales Gain Breaks Trend (WSJ)
“Fashion retailer Hennes & Mauritz AB Friday said April sales in comparable stores rose for the first time since July, indicating that it may be recovering from the global trend of consumers reining in spending amid the economic slowdown.”

Dior Jumps on the Viral-Video Bandwagon (NYMag.com)
“The House of Dior will release a short film on May 20, directed by Oliver Dahan and starring the ever-lovely Marion Cotillard,” featuring artistic shots of stockings, Lady Dior handbags, clothes by John Galliano, the Eiffel Tower, and gangsters. To whet our appetites, Dior has released a 30 second trailer. (see video here)

Esprit says to open more stores, meet target (The Guardian)
“Esprit Holdings, the world’s No.6 fashion brand, said on Thursday it will continue to open new stores and is confident of meeting its target of adding 110 outlets in the fiscal year ending in June.”

Richard Prince Wraps Hong Kong Museum For Vuitton (WWD)
“The installation, which takes its theme from Prince’s ‘After Dark’ series, heralds a significant exhibition of paintings, photographs and video installations collectively called ‘Louis Vuitton: A Passion for Creation’ that will be displayed inside the Museum of Art from May 22 to August 9 as part of Hong Kong’s annual French May Arts Festival.”

De La Renta to Open Stores in the Gulf Region (WWD)
“Not about to be mired down by the U.S. economy, Oscar de la Renta Ltd. is heading to the Arabian Gulf region to increase international sales.” (Subscription required)

Alex Bolen, CEO, Oscar de la Renta

NEW YORK, United States – It’s a new year, but the news hasn’t changed all that much for the luxury business. In fact, as the numbers roll in from the holiday season and for the fourth quarter of 2008, many executives’ worst fears are playing out. It’s a good thing the industry has leaders like Alex Bolen around to keep us all optimistic.

A few seasons ago, I received an invitation to the Oscar de la Renta show in New York. It was a surprise because I hadn’t requested a ticket and I didn’t know anybody at the company. After the show, I met Alex for the first time and learned that he reads The Business of Fashion daily newsletter every morning on his Blackberry, while walking his dog. Invitation explained.

While this was a huge compliment, I am not telling you this to boast. Rather, it demonstrates that Alex is one of those rare executives in fashion who is literally switched on to new technology and new media. Alex recently answered a few questions to give us the latest news from Oscar de la Renta and explain his bullishness about the Internet in our first CEO Talk for 2009.

BoF: How are things going for Oscar de la Renta in this tough economic environment? What is your overall mood about the prospects of fashion and luxury?

Obviously this is a difficult environment for many industries, especially luxury goods and retail. That said, we feel quietly confident that we are well-positioned, and with the right product, to still be successful in this environment. We are still performing well in our own retail stores, and at wholesale, especially relative to many of our peers. There is a general sense that people will buy fewer items of better quality for the foreseeable future. Customers will demand uniqueness and good value, which is not to say inexpensive. We must deliver luxury – great design, the best fabrications and finest make, all at the appropriate price. We think this all suits our business well.

BoF: Your business is predominantly an American one — with significant Wholesale volume — not the easiest place to be right now. When last we spoke, you were contemplating a European retail push to build the Oscar de la Renta business internationally. Where do you stand on this now? What about establishing a presence in emerging markets like China and India which are still growing, or Japan, where Oscar de la Renta has no presence?

It’s no secret that some of our US wholesale partners are currently challenged, but our brand has been one of the few that are actually performing on their floors. Our international wholesale growth has been explosive – we have expanded our international doors from five to seventy five in the last six years. We opened our first international freestanding stores in Athens and Madrid this October, and they are both proving successful, considering the climate. We are also scheduled to open in Moscow in 2009, and we feel confident that we have a strong customer base in all of these markets, based on our demand at wholesale. We are still actively considering real estate opportunities in other European capitals, especially London. That said, we are being cautious about signing long-term lease commitments in this climate. My feeling is that there will be closings in key locations; rents should be dropping. The Middle East, China, India, Turkey and Japan are all still high priorities, and we are actively developing our relationships with the right partners in these markets.

BoF: Retailers are reporting the it is ready-to-wear and apparel that has been hardest hit. Are you doing anything to offset this in other categories?

Ready-to-wear is our core business, but we have not had the same experience as many other brands for precisely this reason. The Oscar de la Renta brand has always been more about quality than seasonal fashion. Nonetheless, we are still growing our accessories business, and developing a strong statement in shoes and hangbags, and that remains a priority for us.

BoF: You recently launched a new website. What roles will ecommerce and web 2.0 play for Oscar de la Renta?

I am a huge believer in the Internet, both in terms of branding and as a commercial vehicle. We have a lot of original content, with Oscar discussing different aspects of the house, and we will continue to add more. We launched the e-commerce site in September and we are now seeing sales, especially since the holiday season started. We have already had one sale over one hundred thousand dollars through our site. As for the interactivity…I think that this is where the real power of the Internet lies. We are looking at ways to incorporate these elements into the current site.

BoF: Finally, how would you describe the relationship you have with Oscar himself? As he is also your father-in-law, does this help or hinder the relationship at work?

This is Oscar’s company, and his name on the door, and he has been very successful for much longer than I have been around. As he is arguably the best designer in the world, I feel that the best thing that I can do for this company is to keep him very excited and interested in coming into the office. As for the personal relationship, I think that Oscar knows that he can really trust me, and that I would never consider anything not in the best interests of the company or himself.

CEO Talk is an ongoing series of discussions with fashion entrepreneurs and business leaders as they combat the economic downturn. Previous interviews are listed below:

• Natalie Massenet, Chairman and Founder, Net-a-Porter
• Camilla Skovgaard, Shoe designer and Entrepreneur
• Susan Lyne, Chief Executive Officer, Gilt Groupe
• Priya Kishore, Founder and Creative Director, Bombay Electric
• Alex Bolen, Chief Executive Officer, Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta’s Unabashedly Luxe Pre-Fall Collection (WSJ)
Unlike some designers who are forgoing runway shows to cut costs, Oscar de la Renta staged a “glitzy” pre-fall 2009 show yesterday in New York.

Nautica to close women’s division (CNN Money)
Nautica is to shutter their money losing women’s division.

Doo-Ri to Launch Lower-Priced Line Next Year (WWD)
Doo.Ri is launching a secondary, lower priced, yet to be named line that will take after her signature looks.

Mascara Provides Buzz to The U.S. Makeup Industry (WSJ)
Mascara has seen a rise in demand at a time when sales for the overall makeup industry is on a decline.

Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2009, photo courtesy of Oscar de la Renta.

NEW YORK, United States – New York already has the reputation of being the most commercial of the fashion capitals, but this New York Fashion Week has taken that stereotype to new levels. With economic uncertainty swirling through the city (Lehman Brothers is the latest Wall Street Bank whose future is in question) and footfall at department stores dropping precipitously, the mantra of the week seems to have been ‘Play it Safe!”

Over and over again this week, young designers have told me that the big buyers are sticking to proven silhouettes in basic colours, veering away from the fashion items. While the basics and staples of designer collections will always be important part of the product assortment, it seems to me that precisely because times are so tough, buyers should be making an effort to give consumers a reason to buy. And, that is not accomplished with a series of little black dresses.

To meet the expectations of buyers, many designers here also seemed to play it safe (even more than usual), delivering collections which verged on the boring.

Luckily, there were some more interesting options on offer, to keep consumers and savvy buyers more interested. Natalie Massenet, for example, raved about the jumpsuits at Thakoon and Proenza Schouler. There were also some beautiful and interesting silhouettes at Oscar de la Renta’s stunning show (where J-Lo made a front row appearance), keeping the ladies who lunch on their toes.

Speaking of which, perhaps the most inventive and creative duo in New York is Rodarte, who showed at the Gagosian Gallery in an unconventional seating arrangement, with shoes made of electrical wire and inspired by Star Wars’ C3P0.

As this New York season winds down (there were almost 250 fashion shows to be taken in an ever-expanding New York schedule), I am looking forward to the creative energy of London, where safety is a four-letter word. Then again, London has a long way to go in creating the same kind of energy around emerging fashion businesses as is found in New York. Perhaps a fusion of the two would be ideal.

London Fashion Week begins on Sunday.

Photos courtesy of Style.com and Coutorture.com.

The day before Super Tuesday in the American primary elections might be called Mega Monday at New York Fashion Week, with established heavyweights like Oscar de la Renta showing alongside the city’s new establishment of Proenza Schouler and Peter Som. Young or old, a newfound fancy for fur (and its premium pricepoints) was a common thread, even in these recessionary times.

But, Oscar is no old-fogey. His collection came out to the sweet sounds of Regina Spektor, the young hip pianist. During the show, I had the good fortune to be seated next to the company’s CEO, Alex Bolen, who also happens to be Oscar’s son-in-law. It was a great opportunity to have a pre-show chat. Before I could even ask, Alex told me that Oscar de la Renta has not seen any impact of the economic slowdown on their business at all. Not a blip in sight.

To the contrary, the weak US dollar has opened up new international growth horizons for Oscar de la Renta, which is still largely an American business, albeit with a strong international appeal. Half of the collection (mostly evening dresses, Oscar’s specialty) is produced in the United States, with costs denominated in US dollars, and therefore, Oscar now offers much better value than some of his European rivals like Akris and Valentino. Alex said that they will be going after this opportunity with gusto. To wit, the business has added 25 new international points of sale in recent months and plans are afoot for new stores in Moscow and elsewhere.

The runway show itself was consistent with Oscar’s approach of adopting the season’s biggest trends in a timeless way that is palatable to his loyal clientèle. A rich colour palette of gold, forest green and deep aubergine was mixed with fur, and lots of it, on collars and trims. Trousers were cut with a high-waist and wide legs, while skirts were voluminous in subtle prints.

Pretty clothes aside, the most delightful sight for me was to see Oscar himself peeking out from  behind the backstage door, making last minute adjustments before the girls came out and reacting with delight when a gown or outfit seemed to match with the vision he had in his mind. You could almost hear him thinking, "Just perfect."

Fur was also a big story over at Peter Som, who showed a collection that was a brave departure from the sweet girly aesthetic of seasons past. This time,  she was more quirky, dressed in lace and layered, asymmetric tailoring.

It made me wonder, was the change in direction an effort to keep this collection truly distinct from Peter’s first outing as Creative Director of Bill Blass or simply a natural aesthetic shift that Peter wants his uptown clients to adopt? 

It’s a bit of both, Peter told me later on. "Along with the challenges of simultaneously designing two collections I also felt more free to explore who the Peter Som and the Bill Blass girl really are," Peter said. "For Peter Som she has always been feminine, flirty and someone who likes to have fun with her clothes. But this season I really wanted to develop her sense of adventure and ability to take risks. She is less concerned about her hair than she is about having a good time, trying new things and adding her own eccentric twist to her approach to dressing."

And, at the end of the fashion day, Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler lived up to their cool kids reputation and treated the fashion pack to a stunning collection with even more wide-legged trousers and furry sleeves.

While Angie Harmon was cooing over the dresses (at the last minute she was forced to stand right next to me when she was brought out too late to take her front row seat), I was most taken with how Jack and Laz managed to take their tailoring to new heights, with some really beautiful, jackets with elegant layers of fabric in an understated mix of colours. This was definitely one of the week’s highlights, and speaks to the bright future of Proenza Schouler. And oh, the make-up was really cool too.

© 2008 Copyright Imran Amed – The Business of Fashion

Joyous. That’s how Natalie Massenet of Net-a-Porter described Oscar de la Renta’s Spring/Summer 2008 collection to Alex Bolen, the company’s CEO, after today’s show. The setting in an Upper East Side church, the lovely dresses in bright gorgeous hues, and music from a band-cum-gospel choir culminated in a show-stopper from this legendary designer. Roger Federer, Victoria Beckham, Anna Wintour and others were there to soak it all in.

With utterly beautiful dresses targeted squarely at the ladies who lunch crowd and their daughters (many of whom were in the audience), Oscar showed that he operates in a market where you don’t have to change things too much from season to season in order to make your mark. He leaves the sometimes obsessive trend-setting (and following) to younger designers and focuses instead on delivering collections that delight his core customers. The aesthetic ranged from minimalist long lean cut dresses in a single shade of red to beautiful prints and ethnic patterns, giving every lady in the house something to covet, regardless of her preferred style choices.

After the show, Christopher Sherman of Fashion Television asked me what I thought about Posh Spice being invited to sit front and centre with the likes of Graydon Carter of Vanity Fair and Suzy Menkes of the IHT. I told him that while Victoria Beckham’s aesthetic and style (and antics!) might not be a natural fit for Oscar, it is still great for press to have someone so closely followed by the mainstream media to be part of the event. Oscar can afford to do this because he is so absolutely clear about his target market and because he is an established brand. The same might not be true for a brand that is just beginning to find its feet.

It’s also worth saying that I was delighted to meet Mr. Bolen after the show and learn that he is a dedicated reader of the Business of Fashion. That explains the gracious email I received from the Oscar PR team in the summer, inviting me to attend today. It’s great that even respected fashion business people at major houses are taking the time to read what we have to say over here at the BoF.

Oscar de la Renta – Spring/Summer 2008

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