Why Isn’t the World’s Fashion Capital Producing More Emerging Fashion Businesses?

Cedric Charlier | Source: Courtesy Photo

As fashion month comes to a close in Paris, BoF examines the prospects for the city’s young fashion designers. PARIS, France — In today’s global fashion ecosystem, New York and London are veritable hotbeds of emerging designers. Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler and Joseph Altuzarra in New York and Mary Katrantzou, Jonathan Saunders and Christopher Kane in London are just a few of the rising names who have been able to

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Spring/Summer 2012 | The Season That Was

LONDON, United Kingdom — It was a fashion season of extreme weather. After the New York Fashion Week schedule was upended, first by an earthquake and then by the State of Emergency declaration that came courtesy of Hurricane Irene, an unprecedented heat wave in Paris threw buyers, editors and bloggers into a wardrobe tailspin. The American editors were worst off, having packed for the European shows two weeks before Paris with no

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Steve Jobs’ legacy, Sea of change, Stubborn optimism, SuperGroup’s IT disaster, Kanye’s disappointment

Steve Jobs | Source: Wired.com

Steve Jobs, 1955 – 2011 (Wired.co.uk) “The full legacy of Steve Jobs will not be sorted out for a very long time. When employees first talked about Jobs’ “reality distortion field,” it was a pejorative — they were referring to the way that he got you to sign on to a false truth by the force of his conviction and charisma. But at a certain point the view of the world from Steve Jobs’ brain ceased to become distorted. It became

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Gucci’s Florentine museum, Economic clouds at PFW, Cavalli sees luxury slowdown, Hearst digital sales, Gareth Pugh

Gucci Museo | Source: Oyster Magazine

Gucci Feeds Its Florentine Roots (IHT) “The museum, housed in a 14th-century building in the Piazza della Signoria, is designed to honor the company’s leather goods legacy and to bring it into the 21st century by juxtaposing the innovation of bamboo-handled bags or luxe sports equipment with modern art… The idea of facing off past with present — under the slogan “forever now” — was the brainchild of Frida Giannini, the

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Room for a change, Milan collections close on high, The way we live, Streetstyle revolution, On to Paris

Bonnie Brooks by Norman Wong | Source: Montecristo

Room for Change (Montecristo) “This encapsulates much of what has been transpiring at the Bay stores across Canada the last few years, a signal that Canada’s iconic department store is entering a new era. It follows the sale of the Hudson’s Bay Company to Richard Baker of the U.S. retail chain Lord and Taylorin 2008, and his appointment of Ms. Brooks to the leadership position at the Bay. Her assignment is to breathe new life

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Amazing Grace, Buying high and low, Luxury loves the iPad, Paris’ final provocation, Yamamoto’s London moment

Grace Coddington | Source: DKNY Times

Grace Coddington: Creative Indeed (Intelligent Life) “Grace Coddington, the creative director of American Vogue, who turns 70 in April, has been a quietly revolutionary presence in the fashion world—first as a model, then as an editor—for half a century. But only since the release of the film “The September Issue” in 2009 has she been recognised in public—greeted by strangers who witnessed some of her creative battles and now

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Louis Vuitton fetishized, Americans in Paris, Musical partnerships, Canadian counterfeits, Restoin-Roitfeld speaks

Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2011 Details | Source: Style.com

Louis Vuitton in Full Fetish (IHT) “‘Fetish’ was the subject for the designer Marc Jacobs, an inspiration that he said backstage came from thinking about the ‘irrational desire’ for Vuitton accessories. They included strokeable fur purses and a new ‘lock-it’ bag, to provide privacy for a woman and her fetish object… there has not been such a racy and saucy LV runway since Mr. Jacobs

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Fire and Ice, Leather supply squeeze, Independent jewellers to struggle, D&G line to fold, Pressure cooker

L-R Alexander McQueen, Chanel Autumn/Winter 2011 | Source: Style.com

Chanel provides the fire, McQueen the ice (Independent) “The mood in fashion is changing. The sight of a waif-like female stepping out in a heavily embellished, barely-there cocktail dress now seems dated. Lagerfeld’s status as the last of the great, traditionally trained couturiers is undisputed. He is also enough of a modernist, however, to respond to the zeitgeist and his reaction made for impressive viewing.”

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Pilati’s precarious pedestal, Sexual extremes, Cutting a new cloth, Prada shuns Milan Borsa, Anne the angel

Stefano Pilati | Source: Fashion Squad

Balanced on Fashion’s Wobbly Pedestal (NY Times) “In total, Mr. Pilati has been a designer for nearly 30 years, during which time he has had highs and lows, wrestled with drug abuse, and constantly questioned his place in fashion and whether the pressures are worth it.’I have worked and worked and worked hard again… I have been a monk here.’” It’s Hard to Be Sexy (NY Times) “Of course, all this

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LVMH takes over Bulgari, Battle for Hermès goes on, Playing the game, Runway realism, Creative destruction

Bulgari B.Zero1 Collection | Source: Bulgari

LVMH to take over Bulgari in 3.7 billion-euro deal (Reuters) “French luxury group LVMH will take over Italy’s Bulgari in an 3.7 billion-euro all-share deal… Bulgari, established in 1884, agreed to the takeover ‘in order to reinforce, in accordance with its history, values, craftmanship and identity, the long-term development of the Bulgari Group,’ it said. Under the deal, the Bulgari family will become

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Gucci Group shake-up explained, Dior’s new chapter, Paris round up, Hermès profit jumps, Gaga to the rescue

Gucci Spring/Summer 2011 Campaign | Source: Fashion Fame

The reasons behind the major shake up at Gucci Group (CPP Luxury) “International media as well as major luxury players have been taken by surprise this week by several major changes within PPR/Gucci Group and it seems this is just the beginning…. Francois Henri Pinault has radically changed management… responding fast to market conditions.” Dropping Galliano lets Dior open new chapter (Reuters) “Behind

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A breeze of change, Asos’ Facebook commerce, Givenchy’s new CEO, Kim Jones to Vuitton, Galliano’s goodbye

Dries Van Noten Autumn/Winter 2011 | Source: Style.com

A Fresh Breeze of Change (IHT) “This gentle zephyr is bringing a new fashion attitude. Out goes outré, excess and over-elaborate shows. In comes the quiet, no-fuss presentation of pleasing clothes. Freshness is the best word to describe what seems of the moment. Add to that ‘decency,’ meaning that any hint of ‘vulgarity chic’ has gone — and you get the new mood.” Fashion Retailer Asos Sets Up

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