Peter Marino | Source: Peter Marino Architect

The fashion industry depends heavily on a wide variety of creatives apart from just fashion designers. In our new series, The Creative Class, BoF highlights success stories, insights and advice from the most talented creatives working in fashion today.

NEW YORK, United States — “Dude, it’s ninety-five percent hard work!” the black leather-clad Peter Marino told BoF on his rise to the position of luxury fashion’s most influential architect. And work hard he has. Since founding his own architecture firm in New York in 1978, Mr. Marino has designed many of the world’s most forward-thinking retail temples, redefined the luxury flagship experience and established a decades-long tenure as the “go-to guy” for powerhouse firms like Chanel and LVMH.

“My first commissions were from Andy Warhol, Yves Saint Laurent and the Agnelli family,” said Mr. Marino. “Then the fashion world took notice. I started doing retail in the 80’s when Fred Pressman hired me to revitalise Barneys, which was then a sleepy men’s store. We introduced a really novel concept — no one had ever seen anything like it before.”

It was while working for Barneys that Mr. Marino met many of the world’s leading fashion designers: Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Giorgio Armani, Azzedine Alaïa, Miuccia Prada. “I worked with every single one of those designers to bring their boutiques into Barneys, which was tough, because we wanted a very cool and hip look for Barneys, yet I had to keep the designers happy,” he said. “Somehow, I was able to do that, so I got into it as a career.”

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Beyoncé photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth | Source: IHT

For Her New Look, Beyoncé Goes Under the Radar (IHT)
“The difference, this time, is in her choice of designers. Instead of sticking to major fashion houses like Versace, Gucci, Prada or Chanel, the singer has thrown the spotlight on a number of up-and-coming designers whose names are likely to be unfamiliar to all but the most diehard fashion followers.”

Luxury group Hermes raises 2011 sales forecast (Reuters)
“Hermes raised its full-year revenue forecast on Tuesday as growing demand for its silk scarves, fashion accessories and leather bags showed no sign of slowing despite a foggy economic outlook… After what it described as a “better-than-expected performance” in the second quarter.”

Do star designers really exist? (FT)
“… In fashion you are only as good as your last collection, no matter how famous you are. We need to remember this is a product-based industry, and in the end, it’s the products that matter… This is fashion. It’s not rocket science, and it’s not Hollywood either.”

Fashion Titles Chart Modest Gains for September Issues (Ad Week)
“If fashion monthlies binged on ad pages in 2007, only to go on a crash diet, moderation could be the watchword of 2011. That’s the sense from the titles as they close their all-important September issues, where advertisers spend big to showcase their fall fashions, and give an indication of their appetite for spending going forward.”

Phoebe Philo: The British fashion designer who’s leading the pack (Independent)
“…Celine, the French fashion label she took over in 2008 in a blaze of publicity, and transformed into a global phenomenon almost overnight… just a little over two years after Philo’s arrival, the Celine look is already instantly identifiable.”

John Galliano | Source: fotografuojam

John Galliano on Dior, Fashion and Style (WWD)
“Over the next hour he engages in ebullient conversation that is both thoughtful and as entertaining… In addition to addressing [the beautifully redone store], he will discuss his own creative process, anoint a mysterious Brit designer a rising star and argue quite convincingly that the best birthday parties happen in London.”

Phoebe Philo wins Designer of the Year (Telegraph)
“Phoebe Philo, who has been hailed as the ‘Queen of the New Minimalism’, won the Designer of the Year 2010 title at the British Fashion Awards… [for Céline the] brand she has turned into one of the world’s most sought-after luxury labels, since her appointment two years ago.”

Fashion and You raises $8 mn from Sequoia (Economic Times)
“Online apparel retailer Fashion and You has raised $8 million from venture capital firm Sequoia Capital… Fashion and You is a members-only website that retails international brands, Indian designer wear and handicrafts.”

Seven Lessons Learned at Our “How I’m Making It” Panel (Fashionista)
“Last night was Fashionista’s first ever panel discussion! Bringing our ‘How I’m Making It’ feature to life was so much fun and incredibly informative… If last night proved anything, it was that this business ain’t easy.”

The Rise of Holiday Me-tailers (WSJ)
“Social-networking also has helped break down inhibitions … We are so used to customizing the world around us… and technology has powered that… ‘In this day and age, I find everybody needs to be a little different.’”

The New Creative Establishment | Source: INDUSTRIE Magazine

LONDON, United Kingdom — Today, The Business of Fashion brings you an exclusive preview of The New Creative Establishment, a list of the 50 most influential and inspirational creatives working in fashion today, developed by our friends at INDUSTRIE magazine for their second issue which comes out later this month and was inspired by a much-watched list with a similar name published by Vanity Fair called ‘The New Establishment’.

Ever since the widely-read debut issue of INDUSTRIE hit the stands last May, editors Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson have been carefully creating their list which they say is a “celebration of creativity in fashion.” After the first draft of the list was developed, they sought feedback from fashion insiders and peers, and re-iterated the list several times. The emphasis is on the word ‘new’ as there are obviously some very important longtime names who continue to wield great influence who are not on the list. In the end, “those listed were selected not only for their creative faculties/creative contribution to fashion today but also because of the wider impact their work has had on fashion business, the social and other creative industries.”

So, without further ado, here is The New Creative Establishment from INDUSTRIE magazine. What are your thoughts and opinions? Who deserves to be on the list? Is anyone missing? And what do you think of fashion power lists in general?

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Phoebe Philo | Photo: David Sims for Vogue Paris

Lunch with the FT: Phoebe Philo (FT)
“Everyone was looking at me, and competition is fiercer because of what happened with the economy, but I also felt: it’s really not relevant to me what Céline has been or where it has been. It will be whatever I make it for the time I’m there.”

Luxury fashion enjoys a rebound, takes no risks (Reuters)
“While buyers are slowly returning to the shops in Western Europe and the United States, designers seem to have received the same instructions to create outfits, bags and shoes that are both sellable and clearly recognizable among fashionistas.”

Luxury brands must push ecommerce harder this holiday season (Luxury Daily)
“Luxury brands must use the reach and convenience afforded by online shopping to offset consumer restraint in the face of a still-tepid economy this holiday season.”

American Apparel appeases lender with key management hiring (Retail Week)
“Beleaguered US fashion chain American Apparel has hired Blockbuster executive Tom Casey as acting president, in line with a pledge to lender Lion Capital to secure key management talent.”

London sheep kick off the Campaign for Wool (Telegraph)
“Events are being staged in honour of The Campaign for Wool, a five-year project… to educate consumers about the benefits of wool, and promote wool-predominant products to help support and grow the wool industry.”