Martin Margiela Autumn/Winter 2009 | Source: Fashionologie

Martin Margiela to Leave Fashion House He Founded (NY Times)
“Insiders had known for months that Mr. Margiela had left the company in all but name. The designer’s particular vision, which had focused on the authenticity of the vintage artisan fused with modern photo prints depicting wrinkles or handwork, was missing from recent shows.”

Primark beats its one-day sales record (Independent)
“The flagship Primark store in London is thought to have enjoyed the best day’s trading in the discount fashion retailer’s 40-year history on Saturday, boosted by a traffic-free shopping day in the West End. The Oxford Street branch is understood to have taken more than £700,000, an increase of about 17 per cent on last year’s record for the store on the same day in December 2008.“

Talbots In Merger Deal, Swings To Surprise 3Q Profit (WSJ)
“Talbots Inc. is revamping its ownership structure to give the retailer more flexibility to complete its turnaround by infusing capital, reducing debt and shedding its majority shareholder…it is merging with a publicly traded shell company in which Talbots’ management will stay in place and the merger partner will hold a roughly 60% to 70% stake in the retailer.”

Louis Vuitton announces Madonna follow-up (Independent)
“Confirming earlier rumors, french luxury giant Louis Vuitton has unveiled next February’s ad campaign to the press, starring Madonna ‘replacement,’ supermodel Lara Stone.”

The Power 25: fashion’s most forward (Guardian)
“From fashion lecturers to PRs, introducing some of the less well-known names from the new list of fashion’s most influential figures.”

Thom Browne’s New Deal (On the Runway)
“Thom Browne… has sold the majority stake of his business to the Cross Company, the Japanese apparel company he began a relationship with in August. The deal, announced Thursday, lets Mr. Browne maintain creative control of his collection. It will also take some financial pressure off the designer.”

Saks Trades Sales for Margin After Discount Setback (Bloomberg)
“Saks Inc., the New York-based luxury retailer, offered smaller discounts in November than last year and cut inventories to help shrink losses at the expense of sales… Saks reverted to promotion levels of two years ago after offering discounts of 50 percent off already-reduced merchandise in 2008, the worst holiday season in four decades.”

Web 2.0 Creating a Digital Revolution for Fashion (AiInSite)
“A digital revolution is sweeping the fashion world. And this revolution will be blogged, streamed, and tweeted instantaneously. Web 2.0, which describes the interactive second wave of Internet use, heralds a more egalitarian way for designers and shoppers to reach each other.”

Primark faces new claims that it uses sweatshop labour (Independent)
“Primark was embroiled in a new row over the treatment of sweatshop workers today as shareholders gathered to celebrate record profits at the budget clothing chain.”

A gem of an idea (FT)
“As an economy of scale, Ducas ordered double the number of cufflinks her mother needed. She sold the surplus to London’s Harvey Nichols department store – prompting Ayton to write a business plan for a company the couple would later name Links of London.”

Anna Wintour, Cindi Leive and Roberta Myers

2009’s Most Powerful Fashion Magazine Editors (Forbes)
“This year, moving pictures mattered to U.S. magazine editors like never before.”

Gucci Group sees Balenciaga as a rising star (Forbes)
“Balenciaga, the trendy fashion house favoured by actresses such as Charlotte Gainsbourg, is the fastest growing brand within the Gucci Group and meeting all pre-crisis targets, its head said on Monday.”

Primark delivers ’stunning’ sales (Independent)
“Primark, the discount fashion retailer, has posted recession-defying sales in its second half, and vowed to press ahead with its store opening programme.”

‘Time Style & Design’ Quarterly is No More (Media Post)
“Time Inc. is suspending publication of fashion quarterly Time Style & Design because of the collapse of the luxury market.”

A Decade Sophisticated but Louder (New York Times)
“With the spring 2010 collections beginning in less than a week, let’s take a moment to reflect on what designers have wrought over the decade that is coming to an end. What will fashion of the aughties be remembered for, if anything more than hipster uniforms and the Olsen twins?”

Burberry S/S 09 ad campaign, courtesy of Burberry

Burberry wholesale sales slide (Drapers)
“Burberry’s revenue rose 2% on an underlying basis and grew by 21% to £663 million for the six months ended March 31 but the luxury brand warned that wholesale sales would slide further in the next six months.”

Do Discount Designer Duds Make The Grade? (WSJ)
“Recession-scarred retailers are turning to collections of cheap-but-chic designer clothing to lure customers who love fashion but are watching their pennies.”

Primark sales hit £1bn in first half (Drapers)
“Primark’s sales rose 18% to bust the billion pound barrier for the 24 weeks ended February 28.”

Banking Concerns Push Retail Stocks Down Monday (WWD)
“Equity markets fell Monday, dragging retail stocks down 3.8 percent as investors fretted over signs of continuing weakness in the banking sector.” (Subscription required)

Amanda Wakeley returns home (Telegraph)
“Amanda Wakeley, the British red carpet designer, has returned in triumph to the fashion scene, as the owner of her own label for the first time in more than a decade.”