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13 December, 2011 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Seoul magnet, Simons in Dior hat, Burke to Bulgari, Karl’s Indian ode, Refinery29 culture

Louis Vuitton Incheon Airport, Seoul | Source: Inluxe

S.Koreans go mass-market, online for luxury goods (Reuters)
“Sixty years ago, war-torn South Korea was one of the poorest countries in the world. Now it is the world’s 13th largest economy and a magnet for luxury goods, prying open the wallets of its wealthy people as well as tourists. Indeed, the country’s appetite for high-end labels has led to the christening of a Louis Vuitton handbag as the ‘three-second bag’ for its ubiquity, with one spotted every few seconds on the streets of the capital Seoul.”

Simons For Dior? (Vogue)
“Dior is said to be finalising its contract with Raf Simons, as reports escalate that he has been hired as the label’s new creative director replacing of John Galliano… If reports by WWD are true, the move may mark a change in Dior’s design aesthetic - Simons being known for his minimal, futuristic, modern looks.”

Fendi CEO to become head of Bulgari (Reuters)
“ LVMH said on Monday that Michael Burke, head of Italian fashion brand Fendi, would become chief executive of jeweller Bulgari in February as part of a management reshuffle following its acquisition. As part of the deal completed over the summer, Bulgari Chief Executive Francesco Trapani took over the chairmanship of LVMH’s watch and jewellery division and a replacement for him at the helm of the Italian jeweller was expected to be found.”

Exotic India Wrapped in Chanel (IHT)
” The collection the designer showed last week was an ode to India — but emotionally it was pinned to Paris…Compared to Mr. Lagerfeld’s previous interpretations of Coco in Moscow or last year’s Paris/Byzantium show, the mood was restrained. That, no doubt, fits more accurately the current financial mood and the spirit of potential customers.”

Refinery29: Boutique Fashion and Design for All (International Business Times)
“Now, through Refinery29, their rapidly growing fashion and design startup, they’re exposing this fashion-forward independents to an insatiable audience of readers and consumers seeking to define their style. ‘Make it your own. That’s the most important thing,’ says von Borries, describing the ethos of Refinery29 and the changing role of fashion industry brands. ‘[Our company] is all about empowering personal style.’”

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1 November, 2011 | by Imran Amed, Editor

Quotable | Raf Simons Says A Fashion Business Without Structure Won’t Work

Raf Simons photographed by Willy Vanderperre | Source: Fantastic Man

What I’ve learned about working with a big company like Jil Sander is how important the structure is. You can have ideas and you can have money, but if the structure isn’t right, if everybody at design and management and marketing and sales isn’t in the same key, it’s not going to work.”

Raf Simons speaking to Gert Jonkers, editor of Fantastic Man, for Issue No. 14, Autumn and Winter 2011

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25 September, 2011 | by Imran Amed, Editor

Suzy Menkes: Sources Say Raf Simons To Take Over At Yves Saint Laurent

Raf Simons | Source: Hypebeast

PARIS, France — We usually leave ‘breaking news’ stories to the wire services and Twitter, and don’t like to propagate unsubstantiated rumours, but sometimes the news is so big, and the source of the rumour is so credible, that it warrants immediate comment and analysis from BoF.

In her rapturous review of Raf Simons’ Spring/Summer 2012 collection for Jil Sander, the highly-respected fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune, Suzy Menkes, dropped the bombshell news that unnamed sources in Paris say that Raf Simons will replace Stefano Pilati as Creative Director of storied couture house, Yves Saint Laurent. When Menkes’ IHT colleague Jessica Michault announced the news on Twitter, the fashion Twittersphere was sent into overdrive.

Menkes seems supportive of the supposed move, saying that “if Raf Simons ultimately takes over the helm at Yves Saint Laurent — as those familiar with the situation in Paris suggest — the designer will have found a sweet spot for his meticulous modernism.”

But there was no mention of the timing of the supposed transition, and while Ms. Menkes’ sources are amongst the best in the industry and her reporting is of the highest integrity, the news is yet to be officially confirmed by any of the parties concerned, so this news must still be treated as conjecture.

… Continue Reading

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22 June, 2010 | by Imran Amed, Editor

The Fashion Trail | A Jil Sander Sorbet and Burberry’s Acoustic Treats

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Pitti Imaggine

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Pitti Immagine

MILAN, Italy — This season, BoF dipped its toes a bit deeper into the waters of the Italian men’s fashion scene, starting with Pitti Uomo and moving on to fashion week in Milan. And, as the fashion circus moves on to Paris tomorrow, my fashion fantasies are still lingering on the outstanding presentation by Raf Simons for Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011 at the stunning Villa Gamberaia just outside Florence. It might not have been particularly wearable, but it certainly left a lasting impression.

Editors and bloggers were out in full force to see Mr. Simons’ pops of colour, which Tommy Ton aptly described—in the words of Michael Roberts, he was careful to point out—as a bit of sorbet to “cleanse the palate” before the start of the season. Tim Blanks called it “a synthetic sundae.” And afterwards, Susie Bubble was practically reeling from the sensory overload created by the combination of fluorescent colour-blocking, the setting sun, a looming rainstorm and those sweet flashes of colour below the classic shoes.

Describing the collection, Raf Simons told BoF that it was “A celebration of colour; a tribute to the vibrancy of extreme tropical nature, with colours that were brighter than ever before, renewing the summer wardrobe and subverting the codes of formal tailoring.” Indeed, it was a refreshing and promising start for the men’s season which had just begun.

… Continue Reading

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8 April, 2009 | by BoF Team

BoF Daily Digest | Raf Simons expands, Clothing prices fall, Esprit tumbles, Lower NY rents, Jay-Z in licensing deal

High-top sneakers by Raf Simons

High-top sneakers by Raf Simons

Designer Raf Simons Forges Ahead (WWD)
Raf Simons reveals plans for his eponymous label as well as a number of other design based ventures. (Subscription required)

Clothing prices fall 4.9% in March (Drapers)
“Prices fell 4.9% in the clothing and footwear sector during March, according to the British Retail Consortium Nielsen Shop Price Index.”

Esprit in free fall after CEO replaced (Forbes)
“Esprit sank more than 7 percent on Wednesday after the world’s No.6 fashion brand announced it was replacing its long-time chief executive.”

Lower Rent Costs May Boost N.Y. Retail (WWD)
“As store vacancies rise and rents fall in Manhattan, some eager retailers appear ready to pounce on the spoils.” (Subscription required)

Parlux Signs Deal With Jay-Z’s Iconic Fragrances (WSJ)
“Parlux Fragrances Inc. signed an agreement with licensing company Iconic Fragrances LLC, in which rap icon Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter is principal, that will bring to market perfume labels for singers Rihanna and Kanye West.”

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