Louis Vuitton Incheon Airport, Seoul | Source: Inluxe

S.Koreans go mass-market, online for luxury goods (Reuters)
“Sixty years ago, war-torn South Korea was one of the poorest countries in the world. Now it is the world’s 13th largest economy and a magnet for luxury goods, prying open the wallets of its wealthy people as well as tourists. Indeed, the country’s appetite for high-end labels has led to the christening of a Louis Vuitton handbag as the ‘three-second bag’ for its ubiquity, with one spotted every few seconds on the streets of the capital Seoul.”

Simons For Dior? (Vogue)
“Dior is said to be finalising its contract with Raf Simons, as reports escalate that he has been hired as the label’s new creative director replacing of John Galliano… If reports by WWD are true, the move may mark a change in Dior’s design aesthetic - Simons being known for his minimal, futuristic, modern looks.”

Fendi CEO to become head of Bulgari (Reuters)
“ LVMH said on Monday that Michael Burke, head of Italian fashion brand Fendi, would become chief executive of jeweller Bulgari in February as part of a management reshuffle following its acquisition. As part of the deal completed over the summer, Bulgari Chief Executive Francesco Trapani took over the chairmanship of LVMH’s watch and jewellery division and a replacement for him at the helm of the Italian jeweller was expected to be found.”

Exotic India Wrapped in Chanel (IHT)
” The collection the designer showed last week was an ode to India — but emotionally it was pinned to Paris…Compared to Mr. Lagerfeld’s previous interpretations of Coco in Moscow or last year’s Paris/Byzantium show, the mood was restrained. That, no doubt, fits more accurately the current financial mood and the spirit of potential customers.”

Refinery29: Boutique Fashion and Design for All (International Business Times)
“Now, through Refinery29, their rapidly growing fashion and design startup, they’re exposing this fashion-forward independents to an insatiable audience of readers and consumers seeking to define their style. ‘Make it your own. That’s the most important thing,’ says von Borries, describing the ethos of Refinery29 and the changing role of fashion industry brands. ‘[Our company] is all about empowering personal style.’”

Raf Simons photographed by Willy Vanderperre | Source: Fantastic Man

“What I’ve learned about working with a big company like Jil Sander is how important the structure is. You can have ideas and you can have money, but if the structure isn’t right, if everybody at design and management and marketing and sales isn’t in the same key, it’s not going to work.”

Raf Simons speaking to Gert Jonkers, editor of Fantastic Man, for Issue No. 14, Autumn and Winter 2011

Raf Simons | Source: Hypebeast

PARIS, France — We usually leave ‘breaking news’ stories to the wire services and Twitter, and don’t like to propagate unsubstantiated rumours, but sometimes the news is so big, and the source of the rumour is so credible, that it warrants immediate comment and analysis from BoF.

In her rapturous review of Raf Simons’ Spring/Summer 2012 collection for Jil Sander, the highly-respected fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune, Suzy Menkes, dropped the bombshell news that unnamed sources in Paris say that Raf Simons will replace Stefano Pilati as Creative Director of storied couture house, Yves Saint Laurent. When Menkes’ IHT colleague Jessica Michault announced the news on Twitter, the fashion Twittersphere was sent into overdrive.

Menkes seems supportive of the supposed move, saying that “if Raf Simons ultimately takes over the helm at Yves Saint Laurent — as those familiar with the situation in Paris suggest — the designer will have found a sweet spot for his meticulous modernism.”

But there was no mention of the timing of the supposed transition, and while Ms. Menkes’ sources are amongst the best in the industry and her reporting is of the highest integrity, the news is yet to be officially confirmed by any of the parties concerned, so this news must still be treated as conjecture.

That said, Mr. Pilati’s future at YSL is said to have been rocky for several seasons now. He has been regularly dogged by rumours that other designers were set to replace him. Only last season, a casual tweet from Kenzo’s Twitter account spawned rumours that Hedi Slimane would replace Pilati, rumours that were only snuffed out when YSL’s official Twitter account wrote: “From YSL HQ in Paris… Pilati busy working on the next collection. All the rumors unfounded – he is here to stay.”

There is more reason to believe the rumours are true this time around. Up until now, there has been no such Twitter rebuttal from YSL. And, Ms. Menkes’ news was published in the International Herald Tribune and on The New York Times website, organisations which operate under strict journalistic codes. While still not a 100 percent guarantee, this holds much more weight in our books than a rogue tweet from a competing brand.

As for Mr. Simons, Ms. Menkes says he couldn’t be reached for comment. But, speaking to Tim Blanks for his review on Style.com, Mr. Simons did say that his Spring/Summer 2012 collection “is the last in his couture trilogy” for Jil Sander, leaving Mr. Blanks to postulate about Mr. Simons’ next chapter  for the brand.

Will there really be another Raf Simons collection for Jil Sander? Or, could YSL Couture be next? Watch this space.

Imran Amed is founder and editor of The Business of Fashion

UPDATE: 26 September 2006 – Yves Saint Laurent issued a statement today denying the rumours about Mr. Pilati’s departure (and Mr. Simons’ arrival) at the house: “”Yves Saint Laurent disclaims and regards as unfounded the current rumours concerning the creative direction of the house. Stefano Pilati continues to dedicate his talent and energies to Yves Saint Laurent and the coming fashion show.”

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Pitti Immagine

MILAN, Italy — This season, BoF dipped its toes a bit deeper into the waters of the Italian men’s fashion scene, starting with Pitti Uomo and moving on to fashion week in Milan. And, as the fashion circus moves on to Paris tomorrow, my fashion fantasies are still lingering on the outstanding presentation by Raf Simons for Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011 at the stunning Villa Gamberaia just outside Florence. It might not have been particularly wearable, but it certainly left a lasting impression.

Editors and bloggers were out in full force to see Mr. Simons’ pops of colour, which Tommy Ton aptly described—in the words of Michael Roberts, he was careful to point out—as a bit of sorbet to “cleanse the palate” before the start of the season. Tim Blanks called it “a synthetic sundae.” And afterwards, Susie Bubble was practically reeling from the sensory overload created by the combination of fluorescent colour-blocking, the setting sun, a looming rainstorm and those sweet flashes of colour below the classic shoes.

Describing the collection, Raf Simons told BoF that it was “A celebration of colour; a tribute to the vibrancy of extreme tropical nature, with colours that were brighter than ever before, renewing the summer wardrobe and subverting the codes of formal tailoring.” Indeed, it was a refreshing and promising start for the men’s season which had just begun.

There was little subversion in Milan, however, where the mega brands were out in force, doing their commercial thing with the expected dose of Italian swagger. Gucci, D&G, and Ermenegildo Zegna were among the brands who showed their wares in large scale fashion shows dotted throughout the city’s golden triangle.

While of impressive scale, there was little in these events to leave a lasting emotional impact, though there was plenty to add to my personal wish list for next Spring. Unfortunately, it will be at least 6 months before I can buy any of it.

Luckily, Burberry’s outerwear—and not just the trench, this season saw Christopher Bailey’s homage to the biker jacket—was available for sale online immediately, with deliveries in a six to eight week timeframe. But the amazing Burberry gladiator sandals and delicate military shirts will have to wait until the Spring/Summer 2011 merchandise hits the shop floor sometime around December, conveniently in the middle of winter. When we will sort out these fashion seasons for once and for all? I want to buy now.

More exciting than the click-to-buy clothes was Burberry’s clever link-up with young British musicians, a refreshing and authentic step forward after last season’s PR-heavy push to keep livestream and 3D viewers entertained as real-life guests took their seats. This time, online viewers could preview videos of acoustic tracks by some truly talented young musicians, as curated by Christopher Bailey. It risked coming across as gimmicky, but instead felt perfectly in tune with the brand’s British DNA.

“Burberry is an iconic British brand and Britishness is so much about music,” Bailey told me in a mob of international media backstage after the show, saying that he discovered the young talents in lots of different ways. “It’s never very strategic…when something really hits me, I love it.”

As for the Burberry Acoustic concept, Bailey said that it came directly as a result of feedback from the brand’s Facebook fans. “Whenever we’ve done things with music at shows or events, it’s always been incredibly well received. We’ve got a lot of Facebook fans and we’ve had a lot of feedback that they love the music, so this was kind of an organic project,” he explained.

Rumour has it that Life in Film, one of the bands featured in Burberry Acoustic, is being heavily pursued by an international music label. So, the young musicians may get more than just great exposure from the Burberry collaboration, there are music contracts to be had as well.

Speaking of new talent, there were some interesting newbies on Milan’s men’s runways too. Unlike the womenswear season which is pretty much devoid of new talent, young men’s designers in Milan are making a serious mark. The pre-show buzz about Umit Benan was virtually deafening, and Albino showed his first men’s collection in a quiet but confident debut. Tomasso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi showed an elegant and relaxed collection for Gianfranco Ferré, even if it seemed out of step with the brand’s heritage and indeed, its more structured womenswear, designed by the same duo.

All in all, after spending an enjoyable few days in the heart of Italy’s fashion community —and surrounded by some of the best dressed best men anywhere—it looks like the Italian menswear circuit may become part of the BoF roster in seasons to come.

Imran Amed is Founder and Editor of The Business of Fashion, an official media partner of Pitti Immagine

High-top sneakers by Raf Simons

Designer Raf Simons Forges Ahead (WWD)
Raf Simons reveals plans for his eponymous label as well as a number of other design based ventures. (Subscription required)

Clothing prices fall 4.9% in March (Drapers)
“Prices fell 4.9% in the clothing and footwear sector during March, according to the British Retail Consortium Nielsen Shop Price Index.”

Esprit in free fall after CEO replaced (Forbes)
“Esprit sank more than 7 percent on Wednesday after the world’s No.6 fashion brand announced it was replacing its long-time chief executive.”

Lower Rent Costs May Boost N.Y. Retail (WWD)
“As store vacancies rise and rents fall in Manhattan, some eager retailers appear ready to pounce on the spoils.” (Subscription required)

Parlux Signs Deal With Jay-Z’s Iconic Fragrances (WSJ)
“Parlux Fragrances Inc. signed an agreement with licensing company Iconic Fragrances LLC, in which rap icon Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter is principal, that will bring to market perfume labels for singers Rihanna and Kanye West.”

ZURICH, Switzerland – The Swiss Textiles Award is not the richest fashion design prize available — the 300,000 euro prize from Mango takes that category. But, over the past 5 years it has emerged as perhaps the most influential award of its kind, and the only one to operate with a global remit.

In 2003, a little-known Belgian designer named Raf Simons won the prize and went on to wow fashion critics, who were now playing close attention to his work. Cathy Horyn had this to say of his Simons’ men’s 2005 Spring/Summer collection, shown in Paris in July 2004:

What Mr. Simons did in an instant was to render the day, and most of the previous one of the spring men’s collections, obsolete. In 18 years of reporting on fashion, the last 5 at this post, I have stood up from only a handful of shows with a conviction that everything had been transformed.

The next year, Simons was tapped by Prada Group to become the Creative Director of Jil Sander. The brand has had its ups and downs since then and was subsequently sold to private investors. But, while it has yet to find its commercial rhythm, there is no doubt that Simons work for Jil Sander has propelled him into an elite group of global designers who are genuinely pushing design forward.

Can the Swiss Textiles Award take the credit for Simons’ giant leap? Of course not. But it has demonstrated an uncanny knack for recognising the world’s best fashion talent first, and giving them a platform of wider recognition and financial support to extend their reach. The award winner from 2006, Bruno Pieters, was announced as Creative Director of Hugo by Hugo Boss in 2007.

I spoke to Robb Young, a Business Strategies Consultant for the Swiss Textiles Award (and respected fashion journalist who writes for The International Herald Tribune and The Financial Times), to learn more about the Swiss Textiles Award and its strategy.

BoF: How did you get involved with the Swiss Textiles Award?

The Swiss Textiles Federation asked me to reposition and rebrand the award in the Spring of 2003. The first thing  I did was to introduce a strict nomination system and separate jury to get the widest possible appraisal from truly influential members of the fashion industry.

I’ve been lucky enough to have secured some spectacular partners as either nominators or jury members such as Suzy Menkes, Sally Singer, Carine Roitfeld and Franca Sozzani. Top buyers have also been very supportive like Julie Gilhart from Barney’s, Sarah Lerfel from Colette, and Armand Hadida from L’Eclaireur.

Fashion curators like Pamela Golbin from the Musee de la Mode et du Textile at the Louvre and Valerie Steele at FIT have also chipped in, as well as consultants like Robert Burke, Armando Branchini, Floriane de Saint Pierre, and of course, Diane Pernet.

The world is changing fast so we’ve also been attentive to the rising influence of emerging fashion markets by having excellent buyers and editors from the Middle East, Russia and China on board.

BoF: What is the Swiss Textiles Award and how did it come to be?

Well, essentially, it’s an annual €100,000 prize that puts the spotlight on a young designer who is both a creative maverick and commercial success. It’s given at a critical juncture in their business development cycle. The endowment is put aside for business activities that are tailored to the needs of the winning designer’s brand. The Swiss Textiles federation pays €100,000 worth of bills for the winning designer over a year– typically for the costs of their fashion shows, production, the hiring of specialist staff or whatever will bring the designer’s brand to the next level. Plus, each designer contestant gets vouchers for free fabrics as well.

To be eligible, designers must have presented at least four successive independent seasons in Paris, New York, Milan or London. This makes sure they have already proven some degree of longevity and can make it past the first few business hurdles of their own accord. They should be champions of a visionary and modern style; be on the forefront of seasonal tendencies while having a challenging and coherent brand identity; and they must have substantial retail distribution and media attention.

But contestants have to be nominated by a rotating panel of fashion industry experts – there’s no way to apply. 

Our winners, for one. But you’re right, there are several other awards out there serving a variety of interests nowadays. Some are quite successful in their own niche while others are not. But the Swiss Textiles Award is the only truly international one open to the best young designers from any of the fashion capitals. Other awards are restricted to designers showing at a particular fashion week, as a way to support national industries. And others still are there to promote a high street brand by vetting potential designer collaborators – or they are positioned to reward design students fresh out of school. That’s important too of course, but we’re focused on serious young fashion entrepreneurs.

You know, it’s not only about the size of the prize money – because some awards now bestow higher prizes than ours.  But, in addition to the cash, the Swiss Textiles Award aims to be the definitive authority on up-and-coming fashion design talent.

We’re here to recognise and nurture designers that have star potential to build their own signature brand. We like to think that our winner each year reflects the collective sentiments of the leaders of the global fashion industry – well, as far as that’s possible anyway. Our point of difference is that we have a system in place where we are objective enough – through our esteemed nominating panels and juries -  to look beyond a lot of the politics and nepotism that haunts the fashion industry. It’s about talented designers with a clear business vision and creative ambition for their brands.

And I think there is something to be said for being the first one out of the starting blocks. The Swiss Textiles Award will have its tenth anniversary next year and embarked on its current international strategy six years ago.

BoF: Who are the previous winners of the Swiss Textiles Award?

Our roster of international winners includes Raf Simons (2003), Haider Ackermann (2004), Christian Wijnants (2005), Bruno Pieters (2006) and Marios Schwab (2007). There have been some really touching stories where the award came through at pivotal moments in these designers’ careers to help them push forward through thick and thin.

Next year’s shortlist will be chosen by yet another nominating panel of experts and the ultimate winner will be selected by a jury later that year. So it’s all about designers being tapped for the waves they’re making from their shows and their success on market. Those who make a big impression on the fashion industry leaders should have every chance to be nominated.

For the 2008 Edition of the Swiss Textiles Award, Rodarte, Louise Goldin, Richard Nicoll, Toga, Cathy Pill and Jean-Pierre Braganza will show a selection of their most recent Spring/Summer 2009 collection in Zurich on the 13^th of November to an international jury.

Rodarte

Louise Goldin

Richard Nicoll

Toga

Cathy Pill

Jean-Pierre Braganza