Raf Simons speaks, Hermès growth slows, China fashion in London, Leather art, Olympic fall guy

Raf Simons on his Dior couture debut (Telegraph) “Speaking in a video posted on Dior’s official YouTube page, Simons explains the concept behind his much-lauded collection and how it felt entering into a house with such rich history in his first interview since the July 2 show.” Hermès sales growth slows as economies falter (Reuters) “French luxury goods maker Hermès said second-quarter sales growth slowed

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Colin’s Column | Making the Case for a Modern Couture

Christian Dior Couture Autumn/Winter 2012 by Raf Simons

PARIS, France — Strange people in the fashion world. Take Dior. The couturier who founded the house with money provided by Marcel Boussac, the cotton baron, was secretive and superstitious, always looking for traitors hiding behind curtains. And nothing much seems to have changed since the man described by Cecil Beaton as “the Watteau of couturiers” first took the fashion world by storm in 1947, the year in which Christian Dior

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Raf’s Dior romance, Schiap’s house, Digital luxury, Eyeing Dr. Martens, The Kooples uncouples

Dior Haute Couture | Source: Hello

Simons Starts Triumphantly at Dior (On the Runway) “The hardest thing to realize in fashion is that the future lies in the past. The second hardest thing is to forget the past. That precise turn of mind is what Raf Simons showed on Monday as he took control of Dior.” Schiap’s House Reborn (NY Times) “The mover and shaker behind the rebirth of the house of Schiaparelli is Diego Della Valle of Tod’s, who has created

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New Couture, Hard luxury, Brothers in innovation, Return of the Czarinas, Jack Wills’ entrepreneur

Alexander McQueen Couture 2012 | Source: Too Clothes Minded

Couture Is Seeding Itself (IHT) “Discreetly, almost imperceptibly, haute couture has re-seeded itself, without any artificial insemination. Across the fashion world, houses built on ready-to-wear are exploring the possibilities of, or just quietly joining, the universe of high fashion.” Fashion follows trend for hard luxury (FT) “As the fashion industry descends on Paris this week for the haute couture shows, one

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Perry Ellis’ legacy, Gieves & Hawkes for sale, New Bergdorf CEO, New York report, Dior remix

Perry Ellis by Norman Parkinson | Source: NY Times

Perry Ellis Still Has Something to Say (NY Times) “For men of a certain generation, the Perry Ellis look of the early ‘80s was a classic: impeccably constructed khaki pants and a crisp white or blue cotton shirt, perhaps paired with a buttery soft trench coat, all of it conveying a kind of effortless elegance.’ When Perry Ellis was alive, no one did it better,’ Michael Bastian, the men’s wear designer, said

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Christian Dior Looks to Raf Simons

Raf Simons | Source: Hypebeast

PARIS, France – Late Monday in Paris, Christian Dior SA named Raf Simons as its new artistic director, ending more than one year of speculation and rumour following the departure of John Galliano, who was suddenly removed from his role after an anti-semitic outburst at a Paris bar in March 2011 and the subsequent release of a video of Mr Galliano making similar rants at the same bar a few months earlier. “It is with the

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Colin’s Column | Designer Hokey Pokey

(Clockwise L-R) Ricardo Tisci, Phoebe Philo, Raf Simons, Hedi Slimane, Sarah Burton, Jil Sander

LONDON, United Kingdom — Now that the dust has settled on the last of the four major international runways, it’s time to take stock. Watching the shows, I was reminded of British artist Richard Hamilton’s comment on Pop Art, which he described as “transient, expendable, low-cost, mass-produced and… big business.” This seems an almost spookily apt description of at least 70 percent of the collections I have seen this season,

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Autumn/Winter 2012 | The Season That Was

Future of the Fashion World's Front Row | Source: Jessica Michault Twitter

PARIS, France — What does it take to create a true fashion moment? This season, the answer would seem to be either the high-profile dismissal of a longstanding creative director just days before his fashion show, or a massive budget to create a larger-than-life fashion spectacle that not only captures the imagination of show-going industry insiders, but generates striking imagery which plays out on livestreams, social media, and

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A rare talent, Fashion saddles up, American Apparel rises, Adidas in China, British style in Paris

Givenchy Autumn/Winter 2012 | Source: Showmoda

Why Was the Designer Raf Simons Dismissed? (NY Times) “You don’t find many galvanizing examples of talent in other creative fields — and it’s hard to imagine an executive taking time on his day off to look at someone else’s runway show. But that’s how talented Mr. Simons is.” Sex in the Saddle (IHT) “What is it about women and horses? A trend toward a coltish look — short, taut jackets, curving jodhpur pants and

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Photo Diary | 10 Fashion Moments at Milan Fashion Week A/W 2012

A swan song for Raf Simons at Jil Sander | Photo: Morgan O'Donovan for Dazed Digital

MILAN, Italy — The tone was immediately set for an emotional Milan Fashion Week when Jil Sander announced that this would be Raf Simons’ last season as its creative director. Mr Simons made way for the return of Jil Sander herself to the label she has left twice before. Thus, Mr Simons’ swan song was all the more poignant, a tour-de-force collection tinged with emotion, that made this the singular defining moment of the

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Raf Simons to Leave Jil Sander; Namesake Designer Set to Return

Jil Sander and Raf Simons | Source: InStyle and Grazia Daily

MILAN, Italy — The ongoing musical chairs amongst creative directors at major European fashion houses took an interesting, unexpected turn on Thursday, as Jil Sander announced that Raf Simons’ would leave Jil Sander, while rumours swirled that Jil Sander herself, the founder of the brand, was set to return after having fallen out with previous management twice in the past. Mr. Simons, the rumour mill said, was set to replace

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Seoul magnet, Simons in Dior hat, Burke to Bulgari, Karl’s Indian ode, Refinery29 culture

Bernard Arnault | Source: WWD

S.Koreans go mass-market, online for luxury goods (Reuters) “Sixty years ago, war-torn South Korea was one of the poorest countries in the world. Now it is the world’s 13th largest economy and a magnet for luxury goods, prying open the wallets of its wealthy people as well as tourists. Indeed, the country’s appetite for high-end labels has led to the christening of a Louis Vuitton handbag as the

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Quotable | Raf Simons Says A Fashion Business Without Structure Won’t Work

Raf Simons photographed by Willy Vanderperre | Source: Fantastic Man

“What I’ve learned about working with a big company like Jil Sander is how important the structure is. You can have ideas and you can have money, but if the structure isn’t right, if everybody at design and management and marketing and sales isn’t in the same key, it’s not going to work.” Raf Simons speaking to Gert Jonkers, editor of Fantastic Man, for Issue No. 14, Autumn and Winter 2011

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