Alexander McQueen A/W 2010 | Source: alexandermcqueen.com

LONDON, United Kingdom — The passing of Alexander McQueen and the future of his namesake brand provided the defining background narrative of the Autumn/Winter 2010 collections. Everywhere a fashionista went, in every conversation, at every show, party and presentation, the ghost of Alexander McQueen seemed to linger as the industry struggled to come to terms with its most sudden loss of creative genius since Gianni Versace was gunned down in Miami in 1997.

But the shows had to go on. And, in a fitting tribute to Mr. McQueen’s futuristic fashion vision from last September, more brands than ever before experimented with live-streaming, digital innovations and new e-commerce models. And, while not all of the experiments were entirely successful, it was a great step forward nonetheless.

In our seasonal tradition, we give you a guide to the ins and outs, ups and downs, and random curveballs that kept fashion’s movers and shakers talking during Autumn/Winter 2010, the season that was.

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Imitate That Zipper! (New York Times)
“In recent months, a veritable industry has sprung up around [Rick] Owens, who may be fashion’s most imitated designer. Rival houses are racing to produce their own distillations of his angular flaps, zigzagging zippers, gossamer T-shirts and biker jackets pliant as second skins.”

Burberry May Speed U.S. Growth Amid Deals on NYC, Indiana Space (Bloomberg)
Burberry may accelerate plans to open U.S. stores as premium shop space becomes available at cheaper prices. “Spaces we thought may not have been available a couple of years ago are available now,” said Stacey Cartwright, CFO.

Versace ends licence deal with IT Holding unit (Reuters)
“Italian fashion house Versace has ended its licensing deal with IT Holding unit Ittierre — currently in special administration — for the production and distribution of its VJC and Versace Sport lines, it said.”

Girl-Next-Door Looks Come Back Into Fashion (Wall Street Journal)
“In Weak Economy, Magazines and Design Houses Play It Safe, Replacing Edgy Models With ‘Classic’ Beauties.”

Top Marks for Topman (Guardian)
“Topman has come a long way from being Topshop’s uncool little brother – these days it leads the way in menswear, with top designers watching closely.”

Givenchy A/W 2009, courtesy of Coutorture

PARIS, France — Sitting through the Paris collections, I was struck by how unappealing much of it seemed.

I find that the editors who attend shows season after season get caught up in analysing a brand in terms of its recent history. Has it moved on, they ask? Where is it going? The ultimate compliment they pay is: “I’d wear that.”

Now that I’m slightly removed from the day-to-day of it all, I tend to sit there and think the slightly more practical: Would I pay for that? And I have to say, much of it I wouldn’t.

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