This season, no single moment dominated the fashion conversation. But there was still lots to talk about. Today, BoF brings you our bi-annual post-fashion month feature, The Season That Was.
PARIS, France — Straight from Paris, BoF’s contributing photographer Sonny Vandevelde brings us backstage imagery from the Anthony Vaccarello, Damir Doma, Dries van Noten, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Gareth Pugh, Mugler, Manish Arora, Balmain, Rick Owens and Lanvin shows, held on the first and second days of Paris Fashion Week.
Today, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed kicks off Right Brain, Left Brain, a new column on his observations at the intersection of business, creativity, and the global fashion industry. LONDON, United Kingdom — In 2006, when I first started exploring the fashion industry, there was one book that became my bible. It wasn’t a book about the fashion business. It was a book called Sample, published by Phaidon, which showcased
PARIS, France — As the Paris menswear shows concluded on Sunday evening with Hedi Slimane’s menswear debut for Saint Laurent, some notable figures in the crowd of menswear buyers and editors quietly grumbled that this was a lacklustre season. But as always, the enterprising Sonny Vandevelde was backstage to capture those off-the-cuff moments that can make even a ho-hum fashion week feel a bit more exciting. Standout shows
PARIS, France — Ahh, Paris. The spiritual home of fashion where the wonderful diversity of creative ideas and fashion dreams comes together in a veritable cornucopia of collections that close off fashion month. We’ve selected ten fashion moments from the Autumn/Winter 2012 collections in Paris, with photographs by Morgan O’Donovan, whose camera was focused on all the goings on backstage — before, during and after the runway shows.
Ferré Struggles to Find Its Feet (WSJ) “After Mr. Ferré passed away in 2007, the brand’s parent company IT Holding SpA went into government-backed bankruptcy administration in 2009. The brand functioned under bankruptcy receivership until Dubai-based retailer Paris Group bought the Italian label in March. Now, just seven months later, the house’s future is in question again after allegations of mismanagement under the new owners.”
Kris Van Assche By Rick Owens (Interview) “The last two years have marked a subtle turning point for the 35-year-old Van Assche, who has weathered the early storms, turned back the critics, and started to carve out his own territory. But as he confesses to Rick Owens, beneath his organized, controlled surface lies a quiet intensity that continues to fuel his work.” The height of fashion (Marketing Week) “‘If
Rick Owens: The prince of dark design (Independent) “In a fashion climate ruled by luxury-goods conglomerates and an excess of merchandise that is both overwhelming and, increasingly, banal, Owens’ less-than-conventional career trajectory – his business turned over more than $50m last year – is an inspiration. ” The Golden Shears – the Oscars of the tailoring world (FT) “Sometimes we can be so
The Tribes of Westwood, Owens and Demeulemeester (The Cutting Class) “While some designers tend to beat to the drum of being on-trend, others have already cultivated their own communities and are even referencing it within their collections. In the recent Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens and Vivienne Westwood collections you feel that they are speaking in a language that their customers already know and understand.”
LONDON, United Kingdom — The passing of Alexander McQueen and the future of his namesake brand provided the defining background narrative of the Autumn/Winter 2010 collections. Everywhere a fashionista went, in every conversation, at every show, party and presentation, the ghost of Alexander McQueen seemed to linger as the industry struggled to come to terms with its most sudden loss of creative genius since Gianni Versace was
Imitate That Zipper! (New York Times) "In recent months, a veritable industry has sprung up around [Rick] Owens, who may be fashion’s most imitated designer. Rival houses are racing to produce their own distillations of his angular flaps, zigzagging zippers, gossamer T-shirts and biker jackets pliant as second skins." Burberry May Speed U.S. Growth Amid Deals on NYC, Indiana Space (Bloomberg) Burberry may accelerate plans to open U.S. stores as premium shop space becomes available at cheaper prices. “Spaces we thought may not have been available a couple of years ago are available now,” said Stacey Cartwright, CFO. Versace ends licence deal with IT Holding unit (Reuters) "Italian fashion house Versace has ended its licensing deal with IT Holding unit…
PARIS, France — Sitting through the Paris collections, I was struck by how unappealing much of it seemed. I find that the editors who attend shows season after season get caught up in analysing a brand in terms of its recent history. Has it moved on, they ask? Where is it going? The ultimate compliment they pay is: “I’d wear that.” Now that I’m slightly removed from the day-to-day of it all, I tend to sit