Fendi Spring/Summer 2010 | Source: Fendi

Burlington Coat Factory Ordered To Pay Damages To Fendi (Business Insider)
“Federal Judge Leonard Sand in New York ruled Monday that Burlington Coat Factory knowingly violated Italian fashion company Fendi’s trademarks, and awarded the luxury brand treble damages.”

A Campaign to Leaven the Mood (NY Times)
“The Saks campaign is indicative of a trend on Madison Avenue to evoke elements of the dire days of the Depression to signal to consumers an understanding of what they are going through today.”

Legendary Ginza district loses some of its lustre (Luxuo)
“As the country struggles to raise itself out of the global economic downturn, companies such as LV and Gucci are downsizing or leaving Ginza, their former properties quickly snapped up by the growing trend of ‘fast fashion’ houses.”

LVMH & Parsons Introduce Young Designers (Vanity Fair)
“[LVMH] recently joined forces with Parsons The New School for Design to create one of the world’s most sustainable designs: a generation of students with a newfound understanding and dedication to craft.”

Draped to Be Shaped (IHT)
“There was nothing mawkish or funereal about the atmosphere at the weekend shows — rather they were a celebration of the individuality that produces imaginative talent.”

Saks Fifth Avenue | Source: Luxist

BlackRock bets on Saks (New York Post)
“BlackRock raised its stake in Saks to 12.7 percent, bolstering the investment fund’s profile among financial and retail heavyweights with a big bet on the luxury chain. The giant money-management firm said it bought 20.3 million shares in the owner of Saks Fifth Avenue ‘in the ordinary course of business.’”

House of Fraser celebrates Christmas cheer (Times)
“Surging sales of own-label brands helped House of Fraser, the UK’s third-biggest department store group, to a strong Christmas. Like-for-like sales rose 7.1 per cent in the eight weeks to January 2 — more than making up for a 1.5 per cent fall during the same period last year.”

Inspired, or fashion theft? (Independent)
“While stores have long looked to the catwalk for inspiration – top designer’s collections barely make it down the runways of London and Paris before lookalikes appear on the rails of mainstream stores – such widespread copying of high-street rivals is a relatively recent phenomenon.”

Luxury Retailers, Meet the New Money (Motley Fool)
“There’s something of a bait-and-switch going on. In effect, these companies are transforming the notion of product exclusivity, which had been established largely through high price, to a model in which exclusivity is created by the appeal of finding that cheap treasure.“

Top designers to highlight biodiversity loss at UN fashion show (Independent)
“Top designers including Diane von Furstenberg and John Rocha will hold a catwalk at the European headquarters of the United Nations on January 21 to appeal against the loss of biodiversity.”

Valentino Autumn/Winter 2009 | Source: Valentino

Permira in talks to buy back Valentino debt-sources (Reuters)
“Private equity investor Permira is in talks to buy back some of the debt it amassed to purchase Italy’s Valentino Fashion Group two years ago, sources close to the matter said. Permira and other shareholders of Valentino Fashion Group plan to invest up to 300 million euros ($452 million) to reduce the Italian fashion house’s debt of about 2.2 billion euros by about a third.”

Roland Mouret to launch menswear (Drapers)
“Roland Mouret is to design a menswear collection that will launch in January. The luxury womenswear designer will introduce a 15-piece collection of men’s tailored clothing and separates.”

Saks faces dilemma as luxury shoppers stay away (Reuters)
“Swooning sales have forced Saks to expand its more affordable lines, given that the mindset of its traditional well-heeled shoppers has been changed by the financial crisis and as a result, they’re much more careful spenders now.”

Invest during a crisis to widen gap with competitors (Channel NewsAsia)
“LVMH believes that when a crisis hits, it is time to increase investments and not cut back. LVMH’s chairman and CEO, Bernard Arnault, said quality is even more paramount to customers during a downturn. He added that a crisis is a good time to push their brands even further ahead.”

A notch above (FT)
“After a rough ride during the height of the financial crisis, things could be starting to look up for the luxury industry. However, the shock to a sector accustomed until recently to double-digit growth has been severe. And this, say business schools, is why a management education programme focused on luxury is even more relevant to industry professionals than it was in the past.”

Thom Browne’s New Deal (On the Runway)
“Thom Browne… has sold the majority stake of his business to the Cross Company, the Japanese apparel company he began a relationship with in August. The deal, announced Thursday, lets Mr. Browne maintain creative control of his collection. It will also take some financial pressure off the designer.”

Saks Trades Sales for Margin After Discount Setback (Bloomberg)
“Saks Inc., the New York-based luxury retailer, offered smaller discounts in November than last year and cut inventories to help shrink losses at the expense of sales… Saks reverted to promotion levels of two years ago after offering discounts of 50 percent off already-reduced merchandise in 2008, the worst holiday season in four decades.”

Web 2.0 Creating a Digital Revolution for Fashion (AiInSite)
“A digital revolution is sweeping the fashion world. And this revolution will be blogged, streamed, and tweeted instantaneously. Web 2.0, which describes the interactive second wave of Internet use, heralds a more egalitarian way for designers and shoppers to reach each other.”

Primark faces new claims that it uses sweatshop labour (Independent)
“Primark was embroiled in a new row over the treatment of sweatshop workers today as shareholders gathered to celebrate record profits at the budget clothing chain.”

A gem of an idea (FT)
“As an economy of scale, Ducas ordered double the number of cufflinks her mother needed. She sold the surplus to London’s Harvey Nichols department store – prompting Ayton to write a business plan for a company the couple would later name Links of London.”

Bryanboy with Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana | Source: Bryanboy

Luxury Firms Move to Make Web Work for Them (NYT)
“The luxury goods industry, struggling through a recession that has threatened some well-known names with extinction, is trying to cast off the kid gloves that have hampered its efforts to get a grip on technology.”

Saks beats Street with surprise profit, shares up (Reuters)
“Upscale U.S. department store operator Saks Inc reported a quarterly profit that beat Wall Street expectations for a loss, stoking investor hopes for a luxury market recovery and sending shares up 4.4 percent.”

Younger Buyers Challenge Luxury Retailers in Asia (NYT)
“Starting up or expanding in Asia is not merely a matter of replicating the tried-and-tested models used back home — This is especially noticeable in mainland China.”

Sophie Theallet wins CFDA fashion fund (Examiner)
“On Monday, November 16th at a gala event held at Skylight Studios in NYC Sophie Theallet was declared the winner of the $200,000 cash prize and one year of mentoring from industry professionals.”

Isabel Marant: breakout designer of 2009 (Telegraph)
“She is part of an astonishingly suc cessful group of female fashion designers… who are reinventing the notion of French style with their thoughtful and sensual, yet practical, designs that blend so well into our frenetic family and work lives.”

Louis Vuitton Store, Plaza 66, Shanghai | Source: fashionphile

French luxury preens on website in China (AFP)
“France’s creme de la creme luxury firms, hit by a drop in sales on traditional markets, on Thursday launched a China charm offensive, with a 3D website that gives a peek at the best France has to offer.”

Preshrunk Prices (NY Times)
“The $300 pair of designer jeans is now, courtesy of the recession, the $200 pair of designer jeans… Like any commodity that becomes overpriced, there eventually comes a market correction. And denim’s day of reckoning was long overdue.”

Saks holds a secret sale online, takes on the fashionista websites (Daily Finance)
“Psst, wanna buy some cheap Chanel? Make sure Saks has your e-mail address… Saks Inc. is experimenting with online private sales on top-of-the-line designer goods. A 36-hour sale kicked off this week and another will follow in November.”

Luxottica optimistic on 2010, Q3 net down (Reuters)
“Italian eyewear maker Luxottica is looking to next year with a degree of optimism after a tough 2009, Chief Executive Andrea Guerra said, as the company posted a 20.6 percent fall in third-quarter net profit.”

Even a Slow Economy Can’t Keep Fashion Entrepreneurs Down (Apparel News)
“Try announcing you’re starting a new apparel line during this deep economic downturn and friends are likely to haul you off for a psychological examination. But plenty of people are putting their wallets on the table to launch new clothing ventures.”

Armani Names Group of Lieutenants But Succession Questions Linger (WSJ)
“Giorgio Armani, after recovering from a months-long bout of hepatitis, slightly loosened his grip on his fashion empire Wednesday, naming one of his most-loyal executives as deputy chairman, as part of a management reorganization.” View the Armani S/S 10 runway video here.

Sheikh’s position strengthens in Lacroix auction (FT)
“The sheikh of Ajman yesterday emerged as the frontrunner to buy Christian Lacroix, the loss-making French fashion house, after Italy’s Borletti Group dropped out of the auction.”

Hugo Boss signs Graeme Black to drive womenswear (Drapers)
“Hugo Boss has named London-based designer Graeme Black as creative consultant for the Boss Black women’s collection.”

Gucci Snake Bag Draws Ire in China as Wage Gaps Widen (Bloomberg)
“At China’s newest Gucci store, in Shijiazhuang, snakeskin purses sell for the equivalent of $4,390, about twice the city’s per capita annual income. Next door at Brooks Brothers, button-down shirts go for $190.”

Saks offers up to $100 million of shares (Reuters)
“Saks Inc is offering up to $100 million in shares of its common stock, the upscale store operator said in a regulatory filing on Tuesday, and its shares fell 4.6 percent in after-hours trade.”

Saks Spring 2009 ad campaign, courtesy of Saks

Saks Chief Cuts Orders to Avoid Discounts on Suits, Stilettos (Bloomberg)
“Saks Inc., Neiman Marcus Group Inc. and other luxury retailers are reducing orders this year to limit supply and boost profitability.”

The City Wears an Optimistic Face (New York Times)
Donatella Versace and Franca Sozzani discuss the future of fashion over  candlelit supper in Milan.

Stylists Aren’t Just for Celebrities Anymore (Forbes)
“There’s an entire branch of the business of styling that never appears at a movie premiere or Oscar ceremony. Female executives and entrepreneurs–and the just-plain-busy or those in need of fashion guidance–often turn to stylists to improve or update their look and wardrobe.”

Milan Men’s Fashion Week: back from black (Drapers)
“The men’s catwalks in Milan got under way this weekend with a more positive verve than last season’s black-heavy credit-crunched looks.”

Saks S/S 09 ad campaign, courtesy of Saks

Saks swings to a loss as demand falters (MarketWatch)
“Saks Inc. swung to a smaller-than-expected first-quarter loss Tuesday after the luxury retailer controlled inventory and expenses amid faltering demand for upscale goods.”

Halston Taps Marios Schwab as Creative Director (WWD)
“Ending one of the most speculated-about searches in recent months, Halston has tapped London-based designer Marios Schwab as its new creative director effective July.” (Subscription required)

Phillips-Van Heusen profit falls but beats Street (Reuters)
“Phillips-Van Heusen Corp, owner of the Calvin Klein brand, said on Tuesday that its quarterly net income fell, hurt by lower sales, but the results were better than Wall Street expected.”

Topshop unveils Kate Moss high summer collection (Drapers)
“Topshop has unveiled its high summer Kate Moss for Topshop collection which hits stores tomorrow.”

Models: Taking Business Into Their Own Hands (Forbes)
“While the supermodels of the ’80s–Linda, Naomi, Christy–were content with walking the runways and playing muse to the likes of Gianni Versace and Karl Lagerfeld, today’s top models have their eye on their own fashion design careers. Say goodbye to the supermodel and hello to today’s model/designer.”

The Meatpacking district in the 1970's, courtesy of the Bowery Boys

Fashion in Dark Times (The Atlantic)
“During the fashion boom that began in the 1980s, the relationship between fashion and its customers was the same as the one between art and its rich, often unlovely patrons: all that money sloshing around led to excessive consumption, but it also created a fertile soil in which works of beauty and integrity could develop.”

This year’s model: How Lakshmi Menon put India in Vogue (Independent)
“Lakshmi Menon has entered the fashion stratosphere with her first solo editorial shoot in American ‘Vogue’. But her success raises one, deeply unsettling question: why is she the only South Asian model regularly strutting down the international catwalks?”

Online fashion sales fall on month (Drapers)
“Online sales of fashion rose 17 percent on last year in April but fell 2 percent against March according to the IMRG Capgemini e-Retail Sales Index.”

Della Valle Boosts Stake in Saks to 5.9 percent (WWD)
“Carlos Slim Helu has company. Tod’s SpA chairman and chief executive officer Diego Della Valle has doubled his investment in Saks Inc. in the past month and now owns 5.9 percent.” (Subscription required)

Ferragamo Net Slides 17 Percent (WWD)
“Italy’s Salvatore Ferragamo SpA reported a 17 percent drop in earnings in 2008 due to marginal revenue growth and a raft of new store openings.” (Subscription required)