An Injection of New Energy in Paris

A/W 2013 looks from Balenciaga, Sonia Rykiel and Emanuel Ungaro | Source: Nowfashion

How much deference does a newly installed designer need to pay to the heritage of a house? Today, Jessica Michault, editor-in-chief of Nowfashion.com, shares her reflections on a Paris Fashion Week that saw a number of new designer debuts at venerable French houses.

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Photo Diary | PFW, Days 3-6: Isabel Marant, Martin Grant, Acne, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Chloé

PARIS, France —  Today contributing photographer Sonny Vandevelde files backstage imagery from the Isabel Marant, A.F. Vandervorst, Sonia Rykiel, Martin Grant, Viktor & Rolf, Acne, Veronique Leroy, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Chloé and John Galliano shows, held over days three to six of Paris fashion week.

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High-rise designers, Fung acquisition, Guangzhou rising, McQueen’s reign, Work ethic

Erdem, Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders Autumn/Winter 2012 | Source: Showmoda

High-Rise Designers (IHT) “Pinstripes with an edge of cool, surfaces smooth and metallic, and fashion show locations in a high rise building in London’s financial district — could it be that city slick is making a comeback?” Hong Kong Investors Buying Sonia Rykiel Fashion House (NY Times) “Fung Brands, a luxury investment firm backed by two Hong Kong billionaires, is acquiring 80 percent of Sonia Rykiel, one of

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Fung Brands eyes Rykiel, Hidden wealth, Tod’s woes, Vogue maintains position, Patrik Ervell Q&A

Hermès Spring/Summer 2008 | Source: Nirali

Sonia Rykiel in talks with investor Fung Brands (Reuters) “Sonia Rykiel, one of the last family-controlled French fashion houses, is in exclusive talks with privately held Fung Brands which could lead to the investment firm taking an 80 percent stake in the company to help it expand internationally.” China’s Hidden Wealth Feeds an Income Gap (NY Times) “Wealthy Chinese are snapping up gold, Rolls-Royces and

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Kenzo’s new creative directors, Rock ‘n’ Rococo, Al Fayed invests in Issa, Social shopping, Rykiel for sale?

Humberto Leon and Carol Lim | Source: Lane Crawford

Opening Ceremony Founders to Lead Kenzo (Elle) “LVMH has tapped the retail dynamos behind Opening Ceremony as Kenzo’s new creative directors… Lim and Leon succeed Antonio Marras, who designed for Kenzo from 2004 until the recent menswear collection… Leon and Lim will continue to lead Opening Ceremony while working to reenergise Kenzo’s brand image.” At Versailles, Rock ‘n’ Rococo (IHT) “Who would have thought that

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Ralph cashes in, Rykiel eyes USA, Angela Ahrendts’ payout, Guinness buys Blow collection, Searching for Gisele

Ralph Lauren to Sell Portion of Polo Shares (WSJ) “Ralph Lauren, chairman and chief executive of Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., is selling approximately a quarter of his holdings in the company he founded, a move that could raise up to $955 million at Monday’s closing price.” Rykiel Targets America (Vogue) “French fashion label Sonia Rykiel has announced plans to target the US market as it schedules debut showroom

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H&M scion forges ahead, Equestrian luxury, Galliano menswear, Scant succession planning, DVF’s story

Keeping Fast Fashion Fresh, and Profitable (IHT) "It is not often that the Grand Palais... hosts a giant Ferris Wheel, a spinning swing, a shimmering mini Eiffel Tower, and a parade of scantily clad models showing lingerie on a catwalk resembling the Champs-Élysées. In the center of this adult amusement park stood Karl-Johan Persson, 34, in his new role as chief executive of H&M Hennes & Mauritz." Hermès and Gucci Press Equestrian Advantage (NY Times) "The heart of the sponsorships is not commerce but the soul of the brands. Hermès has never deviated from its noble, officer-and-gentleman image. But this is a good time to reinforce that classy conception, at a moment when luxury has become associated with a period…

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Rykiel for H&M, Fashion interns, New Look to go public, Artists inspire fashion, Real fashion muses

Sonia Rykiel

H&M signs Sonia Rykiel (Drapers) “Swedish clothing chain H&M has signed French fashion veteran Sonia Rykiel to design a range of lingerie and related accessories to be launched on December 5.” Job Wanted — and Pay Would Be Nice (New York Times) “Many of Britain’s most successful brands may be rich in creativity, but they are poor in revenue. So when a collection appears on the catwalk, often those

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DNR and Dresner shut down, Matthew Williamson & H&M, Sonia Rykiel

DNR RIP, men's fashion trade paper dead at 116 (LA Times) DNR, the Fairchild owned menswear trade publication has succumbed to the econommy and "parental neglect" is now dead. Dresner Checks Out: Park Ave. Retail Icon Succumbs to Economy (WWD) New York retail institution, Linda Dresner, is to shutter its doors at the end of December. H&M signs Matthew Williamson (Drapers) Matthew Williamson is the latest designer to link up with H&M. Sonia Rykiel: Designer for the independent woman (IHT) The International Herald Tribune profiles Sonia Rykiel, the legendary French designer who is a subject of an exhibition in Paris. Issues of DNR, photo courtesy of DNR.

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