Stefano Pilati | Source: Fashion Squad

Balanced on Fashion’s Wobbly Pedestal (NY Times)
“In total, Mr. Pilati has been a designer for nearly 30 years, during which time he has had highs and lows, wrestled with drug abuse, and constantly questioned his place in fashion and whether the pressures are worth it.’I have worked and worked and worked hard again… I have been a monk here.’”

It’s Hard to Be Sexy (NY Times)
“Of course, all this is a big fat cliché; women, including Ms. McCartney, are much more complex than that. But it was interesting for Ms. McCartney, who isn’t known for straying far from her brand comfort zone, to take these sexual identities to such extremes. As a trying three-week run of shows winds down, you realize how difficult it is for designers to make new statements with sexy clothes.”

Cut from a different cloth (FT)
“There are, at most, just 300 Intha people who know how to harvest the wild lotus flower stems… About 200 others know how to extract the filaments and process these to skeins, which must be done within 24 hours of picking to prevent deterioration. When Loro Piana first came to Burma… he guaranteed to purchase all the fabric.”

Prada Shuns Milan for Hong Kong Signals Economic Shift (Bloomberg)
“Losing Prada highlights the struggles facing Borsa Italiana to gain new listings, said investor… The Italian exchange lost half its value in the past three years amid a dearth of IPOs and the drop in stock prices since 2007… ‘The Borsa’s troubles mirror sluggish economic growth and an exchange that isn’t as visible as others on a global scale… Companies that have a global market are looking elsewhere for success.’”

Nuturing by a Style ‘Angel’ (IHT)
“One woman in particular was overwhelmed with emotion at the Ackermann show: Anne Chapelle, the Belgian investor who believed in the designer and supported him, just as she has Ann Demeulemeester and has brought the Josephus Thimister brand back to life. Ms. Chapelle’s approach to designers is different from the big-bucks, big-brand style…. ‘My designers have to have their feet on the ground.’”

Carré Hermès | Source: Hermès

Jean-Louis Dumas, Chief of Hermès, Dies at 72 (NY Times)
“Jean-Louis Dumas, who revived the flagging fortunes of Hermès in the late 1970s and in his nearly 30 years as the company’s chief executive transformed it into one of the world’s most successful luxury brands, died Saturday at his home in Paris.”

Louis Vuitton Tops Hermes, Gucci as Most Valuable Luxury Brand (Bloomberg)
“Louis Vuitton, the French fashion brand known for its monogrammed luggage, topped Millward Brown Optimor’s 2010 BrandZ ranking of the most valuable luxury labels for the fifth straight year.”

Costumes On Display at the Met (WSJ)
“There are really no other evenings in New York like the Costume Institute Gala, which falls on the first Monday in May and is hosted, as it has been for years, by Vogue. This is partly because there’s a great element of surprise.”

YSL’s Stefano Pilati (South China Morning Post)
“‘More or less I have done everything I have had in mind so far – in terms of collections, playing with the heritage but not too much and preserving the runway as something directional yet true to what I feel. Sales, for me, show I have done a good job.’”

The Collector: Jason Wu (WSJ)
“In 2008, he was a finalist for the Council of Fashion Designers of America/Vogue Fashion Fund award, a prestigious prize for emerging designers. But when the inauguration gown went viral in the multimedia world, he became a household name overnight.”

J.Crew A/W 09, courtesy of J Crew

Despite Fourth-Quarter Loss, J. Crew Sees Room to Grow (WWD)
“Tightfisted consumers and rising costs may have pushed J. Crew Group Inc. to a $13.5 million loss in the fourth quarter, but the retailer still has cautious expansion.” (Subscription required)

Has spring sprung for US retailers? (Just-Style)
Though February sales have improved, this is an unlikely sign of a total recovery.

Simon Fuller to launch fashion retail portal (Drapers)
“Pop mogul Simon Fuller and Sojin Lee, formerly Net-a-Porter.com, are to launch a fashion style website which will be affiliated with brands and retailers via pop-up shops and advertising.”

Stefano Pilati Gets The Season’s Shoulder Just Right at YSL (WSJ)
The power shoulder is one of the biggest trends this season, but Stefano Pilati at YSL, offerred the “2009 version of 1985.”

John Lewis profits fall 27% (Drapers)
“John Lewis saw operating profit fall back 26.8% to £146 million for the year ended January 31, but sales were flat at £2.81 billion.”

Stefano Pilati of YSL, courtesy of Wallpaper

Black is back at Yves Saint Laurent (Financial Times)
After ten years of losses, Yves Saint Laurent breaks even amid the current recession.

Net-a-Porter profits rocket (Drapers)
Due to improved margins, Net-a-Porter’s pre tax profits are up 300 percent to £9 million.

Wal-Mart’s Profits Attributable to Sad State of Economy (Seeking Alpha)
“Wal-Mart is one of the few stalwarts to actually expand business amidst today’s financial carnage and the glowing statistics are not to be mistaken for a grandiose harbinger of U.S. economic vitality.”

Christian Lacroix Heads Back to the Basics (WSJ)
As a response to the economic tumult, Lacroix pulled back on his signature exuberance.