Carine Roitfeld’s big exit, Bonobos raises $18.5m, Luxury spend bounces back, Stella’s app, Spending CFDA cash

Carine Roitfeld at Paris Fashion Week | Photo: Tommy Ton

Carine Roitfeld Resigns from French Vogue ( “French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld has resigned after ten years of service. She will leave the magazine at the end of January. Roitfeld has decided to concentrate on personal projects.” Bonobos, a Web Retailer, Raises $18.5 Million (NY Times) “On Thursday morning, Bonobos announced it had raised $18.5 million in a financing round, led by the venture capital

…Continue Reading

BoF Exclusive | From Where I Stand by Mary McCartney

LONDON, United Kingdom — This evening at the Michael Hoppen Gallery is the private view of images from Mary McCartney’s first book, From Where I Stand, documenting her more than fifteen years of work as a photographer. Mary seems to have always had the natural instinct to observe and document the people around her, shying away from the spotlight that has shone on her family ever since her father, Sir Paul McCartney, became

…Continue Reading

Women designers at the fore, Surge in luxe demand, Optimism returns, Online ad spend, Paris’ mature tone

Stella McCartney Spring 2011 Look Book | Source: Stella McCartney

Women Designers and the Quiet Revolution (Guardian Weekend) “From Phoebe Philo at Céline to Stella McCartney to Hannah MacGibbon at Chloé, women designers are at the forefront of fashion right now… When women design clothes for women, they do it differently. For women, clothes are not just seen, they are felt from the inside.” Luxury stores caught out by surge in demand (FT) “[Louis Vuitton] is not the only

…Continue Reading

Yuan fears, Google vs LVMH Round 2, Shoes the new ‘it’ bag, Digital marketing costs, Stella for Team GB

Declining dollar reduces Chinese competitiveness | Source: Impactlab

China’s textile firms may face bankruptcy on yuan appreciation (Xinhuanet) “Half of China’s textile firms may risk going bankrupt if the value of the Chinese currency yuan rises 5 percent against the U.S. dollar given the industry’s thin profit margins.” French Court Kicks Google/LVMH Case Back To Appeals (WSJ) “The French Supreme Court Tuesday referred a previous ruling against Internet search

…Continue Reading

In Ethical Fashion, Desirability is Sustainability

NEW YORK, United States — Over the past ten years, the eco-fashion movement has been gathering steam. Following the lead of pioneering brands like Stella McCartney and NOIR, which were founded on the basis of ethical principles near the turn of the millennium, there are now entire fashion exhibitions, forums and blogs all focused on so-called sustainable fashion. Ethical fashion is also high on the agenda of the major luxury goods

…Continue Reading

LVMH on the watch, Valli’s production, Affluent friends, McCartney’s minimalism, Paris focuses on daywear

Hublot Platinum Watch Detail | Source: Hublot

LVMH Must Watch It (WSJ) “LVMH should do more to fill out its lack of presence in the ‘hard’ luxury segments of jewelry and high-end watches. High operating leverage at jewelers and watch makers, especially smaller outfits, has left them economically vulnerable and a potential hunting ground to scale up LVMH’s business.” Giambattista Valli to Sew His Own Clothes (WSJ) “Mr. Valli said that, starting today, he

…Continue Reading

Lacroix’s non-fairytale ending, J.C. Penney and Mango, Designer rentals, Yoox IPO, McCartney meets Morrissey

End of a fairytale: Christian Lacroix fashion house to strip down (Guardian) “Christian Lacroix, the celebrated French designer whose fantastical creations and luxurious image captured the decadence of its age, was told today that the fashion house he founded over two decades ago is to cease making haute couture.” J.C. Penney Is Betting Big By Adding A European Flair (WSJ) “J.C. Penney Co.may be making its biggest

…Continue Reading

Sustainability in vogue, Ted Baker’s profits drop, Haute not out, Inditex sales up, Stella on ecology

Ted Baker advertising campaign | Source: Ted Baker

Sustainability is back in fashion (IHT) As the industry redefines the meaning of luxury, “Sustainability” and “Responsibility” have become the new buzz words. Ted Baker profits fall (Drapers) Ted Baker saw pre-tax profit fall 19.5% to £17.8 million for the 53 weeks ended January 31. In Fashion, Some Like It Haute (WSJ) “Economic crisis doesn’t mean the end of luxury. But while many brands have

…Continue Reading

A Deeper Luxe | The new ethics of luxury

LONDON, United Kingdom - Just a few years ago, the concept of Ethical Luxury was dismissed by major luxury brands. Products based on environmental concerns and fair trade principles were associated with hippies. Most fashion conscious cosmopolites wanted nothing to do with the Birkenstocks, baggy pants, and hemp T-shirts of the so-called green movement. Today the current has started to shift. With global income inequality worsening and a rapidly deteriorating environment, social issues have come to the forefront of consumers' minds. They now expect a greater commitment to craftsmanship, social causes and environmental concerns. The press is abuzz with reports of these attitudinal shifts. “Luxury Considered,” published last week by Ledbury Research on behalf of DeBeers, reported a distinct change…

…Continue Reading

Japan’s Fast-Fashion Frenzy, McCartney’s new stores, Gap’s resurgence, Shoppers’ short attention

Japan's Fast-Fashion Frenzy (JC Report) "Japanese consumers have fallen head over heels for cheap clothing and may never turn back." McCartney Sets New Tokyo, Paris Stores (WWD) Although the brand is only seven years old, Stella McCartney has opened new stores in Tokyo and Paris. The Gap's Resurgence: Great Start to the Holiday Season (Seeking Alpha) At Gap, "spending is up significantly" for November 2008 compared to last November. Retailers Will Find It Hard to Keep Shoppers' Attention This Year (Seeking Alpha) Though Black Friday sales were impressive in the US, many analysts think that consumers wouldn't be able "to sustain their buying frenzy for the duration of the holiday season." People lining up to purchase goods at Topshop in…

…Continue Reading

Luxury Outlook | Finding meaning in design

Back in September, The Business of Fashion caught up with noted futurist Faith Popcorn to talk to her about "recession culture," and how this changes the way consumers scrutinise spending decisions. It seems like a quaint discussion now (because of my questions, not Ms. Popcorn's answers) because our interview took place back when consumers in the U.S. were still spending. Boy have things changed since then. By the middle of October, Eric Wilson of the New York Times reported of worried U.S. consumers walking into department stores and retailers, shopping bags in hand, returning entire bags of merchandise which had been previously purchased. What's more, he went on to report of dramatic drops in sales at major luxury departments stores…

…Continue Reading

Stella McCartney | Taking Asia by storm

Bolstered by a string of well-received collections in recent seasons, positive feedback from the sales floor, and her newly profitable status, Stella McCartney is setting her sights on Asia.  In 2007, the brand signed an exclusive distribution deal with the Lane Crawford Joyce Group to open 10 freestanding stores in China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Macao, Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia by 2012. And yesterday, McCartney announced a partnership with TSG International Marketing Pvt to open 6 stores across India, including two stores by the end of this year. Boy have things changed for the upstart brands in Gucci's portfolio. After years of operating in the red, there was much hoopla in 2007 when Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen finally broke-even,…

…Continue Reading