Manolo’s legacy, Arcadia profits up, Luxury survival, Fifth Avenue rent, Fashion legend

Manolo Blahnik | Source: The Window, Barneys

Manolo Blahnik: ‘There is nothing charming about a woman who cannot walk in her shoes’ (Guardian) “The tremendously satisfying thing about Manolo Blahnik, the man, is that he is exactly the way you picture him. The singleminded fashion obsessiveness of Anna Wintour is spiked with the belle-epoque-bonkersness of Ab Fab’s Patsy and housed in the body of Hercule Poirot.” Philip Green’s Arcadia year

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Colin’s Column | Does the Fashion Critic Matter Anymore?

Fashion Critics (L-R) Cathy Horyn, Godfrey Deeney, Suzy Menkes and Hilary Alexander

LONDON, United Kingdom — All creative endeavours require critical feedback if they are to develop and mature. Ancient storytellers honed their craft by observing the reaction of their audiences. Medieval strolling players were pelted with manure if they failed to perform well. Vaudeville artists in the American South were physically threatened and run out of town if they weren’t up to standard. Indeed, art, dance and literature all

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Spring/Summer 2012 | The Season That Was

LONDON, United Kingdom — It was a fashion season of extreme weather. After the New York Fashion Week schedule was upended, first by an earthquake and then by the State of Emergency declaration that came courtesy of Hurricane Irene, an unprecedented heat wave in Paris threw buyers, editors and bloggers into a wardrobe tailspin. The American editors were worst off, having packed for the European shows two weeks before Paris with no

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Suzy Menkes: Sources Say Raf Simons To Take Over At Yves Saint Laurent

PARIS, France — We usually leave ‘breaking news’ stories to the wire services and Twitter, and don’t like to propagate unsubstantiated rumours, but sometimes the news is so big, and the source of the rumour is so credible, that it warrants immediate comment and analysis from BoF. In her rapturous review of Raf Simons’ Spring/Summer 2012 collection for Jil Sander, the highly-respected fashion editor of

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Miu Miu Musing on the Pace of Fashion

LONDON, United Kingdom — As the the fashion industry grapples with the radical change that’s reshaping our business, there have been precious few opportunities to step back and discuss what it all means for the fashion system at large. The third edition of Miu Miu’s “Musing” salons, themed The Pace of Fashion and hosted by Shala Monroque, enabled industry leaders from across the fashion spectrum to sit back and try to make sense of

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The Best of BoF | Top 10 Articles of 2010

[caption id="attachment_14415" align="alignnone" width="500" caption="The BoF community looks on at Fashion Pioneers with Natalie Massenet | Photo: Lawrence Randall"][/caption] LONDON, United Kingdom — It's been quite the year for the BoF team. In January, we will celebrate our 4th birthday, having seen BoF grow from a passion project created from the sofa in my living room to a growing global community of like-minded fashion professionals that is BoF today. We are grateful for all of the support our community has shown us over the past 12 months, from the success of our sold-out Fashion Pioneers series to the rapidly growing numbers of you who come to us every day for opinionated fashion business analysis and a highly-curated point of view…

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Quotable | Speaking about Technology, Karl Lagerfeld says Facebook is a “Flawless Object”

“I think they are very beautiful objects. There is no touch of what is considered bad taste or bad design [with technology], because bad design is bad taste today. They are flawless in a way. Facebook is a flawless object...it's for me like a Brancusi" Karl Lagerfeld speaking exclusively to BoF Founder and Editor-in-Chief Imran Amed on technology for The Luxury Channel, following the IHT Heritage Luxury Conference hosted by Suzy Menkes and held in London last week.

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Fashion’s new icons, Masstige in China, Gap’s Shanghai outpost, Polo stock soars, McQueen at the Met

Anna Dello Russo | Source: Anna Dello Russo

The New Icons of Fashion (NY Times) “Ms. Dello Russo and her raffish style-world cohort, who populate the mastheads of the fashion magazines, represent a new breed of Web-based reality star… they are casting a spell, their comings and goings relentlessly tracked by a new generation of aspiring style savants.” What Does ‘Masstige’ Mean For China? (Jing Daily) “If masstige collections are offered supplemental

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Quotable | Suzy Menkes on Luxury Heritage in the Digital Era

“"If heritage is all about the physical artifacts and intangible attributes that connect the brand to its past, how does one break that down into codes that can be adapted for the Internet Age? ...The essence of heritage luxury takes a quiver of emotion from the past in a thoroughly modern world." The inimitable Suzy Menkes, writing exclusively for NOWNESS about “heritage” in the digital era for luxury brands, accompanied by an animated short from Christian Borstlab as part of the celebrations for the 10th annual IHT Luxury Conference being held in London this week.

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China looms large, Beckham seeks longevity, Direct messaging the wealthy, The legacy of Savile Row, Alber and Suzy

Maggie Cheung for Lane Crawford | Source: Pomegranita

China Looms Large in Luxury Industry’s Vision (NY Times) “If heritage is the tool fashion houses have turned to in the wake of the global financial crisis, then the actual market the luxury industry sees guaranteeing its future is China… while China booms, the industry is turning back to basics with more mature markets.” Victoria Beckham looking to build her label slowly (Reuters) “Victoria Beckham is

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Spring/Summer 2011 | The Season That Was

LONDON, United Kingdom — One never knows exactly what to expect from fashion month. Which designers will soar higher, which will stumble, and which will seemingly rise from the ashes? Four weeks of shows, parties and extravaganzas finally came to an end last Wednesday, and the answers to many of these questions have now been revealed. But of course fashion week isn’t just about shows and parties, it is also the time of year

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Horyn and Menkes beg to differ on designer appointments, Vuitton’s boom, Eco-friendly factories, Luxury Titanic?

Christophe Lemaire, new chief designer at Hermes | Source: Adah

Three Separate Challenges (NY Times) “With a number of companies now being run by equity-market managers, you can bet your bottom dollar that they would love to get their hands on an experienced design maestro — if more were available.” A New Pragmatism Behind the Catwalk (IHT) “A post-recession strategy likely to define luxury brand management for the early 21st century has emerged from a week packed with

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Suzy Menkes on the Growing Influence of Fashion Blogs

BERLIN, Germany — A big thank you to PREMIUM and Mary Scherpe of Stil in Berlin for inviting me to join an esteemed panel of German fashion experts — Christoph Amend of Zeit Magazin, Marcus Luft of Gala and  Too Posh to Push, and Sven Schoene of PR Agency K-MB — to discuss the future of fashion media on the first day of Berlin Fashion Week. The panel began with the esteemed Suzy Menkes, who wasn’t able to participate in

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