“Perfectionism is almost an illness with me, but sometimes I have moments where everything is absolutely clear and you can feel, rather than think.”

Tom Ford, speaking in Visionaries, a new documentary which airs on the Oprah Winfrey Channel on 23 October, 2011

Burberry Spring/Summer 2012 | Source: Design Scene

Burberry launches 2012 collection on Twitter (Guardian)
For the first time, the label “live tweeted” the show on Monday from backstage, posting photographs of each look on Twitter moments before the model stepped on to the catwalk… When you consider that it was not long ago that high street stores smuggled spies into catwalk shows in order to glean clues as to what might be in stores in six months’ time, this is quite a turnaround.”

Tom ‘God’ Ford has off day. Fashion world in denial (Guardian)
“This man redefined the parameters of what a fashion brand could be during his time at Gucci. He made the world rethink what it means to be sexy, replacing heroin chic with a slick, glossy aesthetic…His comeback show in New York was one of the highlights of my decade as a fashion editor: a gorgeous, glorious, life-affirming celebration… But even godlike geniuses have off days.”

eBay says Boo to the runway (FT)
“Some of the world may be obsessed with fashion that hasn’t yet happened – or the stuff now appearing on runways from London to Paris, which won’t be in-store until late February of 2012 – but the folks at eBay are much more interested in the profit potential of immediate gratification.”

London Fashion Week crisis after Gucci summon models to Milan (Telegraph)
“London Fashion Week has been thrown into crisis after heavyweight Italian fashion brand Gucci, who will show their spring/summer 2012 collection in Milan on Wednesday, ordered countless models to fly to Milan early to begin fittings for their show.”

Miuccia Prada Sitting Pretty (Because London)
“Miuccia earned her stripes slowly and after years of being regarded with skepticism from critics and fashion insiders. Untrained in design and lacking an apprenticeship in the conventional sense, she earned a Ph.D. in politics, then became a mime artist before eventually taking over the family business. 
At that point in the late ’70s, Prada was a small Milanese leather goods manufacturer.”

LONDON, United Kingdom — This season, fashion brands embraced fashion film like never before, integrating digital videos more meaningfully into a wide spectrum of communications strategies, from Nicola Formichetti’s formidable social media machine for the House of Mugler to Tom Ford’s contrarian approach that defied the industry trend towards greater access and immediacy.

In past seasons, fashion films have often been geared at editors, buyers and other industry insiders, accompanying — and sometimes even replacing — runway shows and presentations. But as brands grappled with the tug-of-war between digitally-enabled consumers with real-time expectations and the challenging realities of syncing the physical atoms of their supply chains with the virtual bits of their digital communications, momentum swung in the direction of consumer-facing fashion films designed to coincide with the retail schedule and build intrigue around new collections, just as they hit stores.

Chanel launched a robot animation with terrific viral appeal to support its Spring 2011 makeup line, while Tom Ford synced the arrival of his first womenswear collection in stores with the debut of a film that captured his ultra-exclusive fashion show held last September. But our top honours go to Prada, which released an irresistible fashion film with just the right energy to match the stripes and monkeys of Miuccia Prada’s current collection and accompanying ad campaign.

The following is a BoF selection of what we think were the most compelling fashion films of the Spring 2011 season. As you sit back and enjoy the films, let us know which ones you like best.

1. Prada S/S 2011

In a highly addictive film that almost pops off the screen with infectious charm and masterfully executed quick edits, Tati Cotliar, Kinga Razjak, Arizona Muse, Mariacarla Boscono and Zuzanna Bijoch show off their monkey moves in the stripes and banana prints of Prada’s Spring 2011 collection to the glitchy sounds of Ratatat’s Mirando. “This is just BEGGING for gifs,” added an enthusiastic Tavi Gevinson, referring to simple user-generated animations often based on a few frames of a film, as she reblogged the video on her Tumblr. Indeed, with hundreds of thousands of views on YouTube, there is something about the film’s quick bursts of colour and body movements that both resonates with today’s remix culture and triggers instant desire, making the video and the collection it displays, completely irresistible.

2. Tom Ford Spring 2011 Fashion Show

While Tom Ford has taken a strong stand against fashion immediacy, preventing the media from photographing or tweeting his ultra-exclusive shows, it would be wrong to conclude that he has rejected the internet entirely. With a stylishly edited film that nicely captures the extraordinary glamour of his Spring show, Mr. Ford has skillfully embraced digital video on his own terms. The film, whose launch was timed to coincide with the arrival of his clothes in store, features an utterly fabulous cast including Julianne Moore, Beyoncé Knowles, Lauren Hutton, Rachel Feinstein, Daphne Guinness, Julia Restoin-Roitfeld and more. Capturing the special ambiance of a very small and glamorous fashion show — we catch glimpses of Anna Wintour, Grace Coddington, Hamish Bowles, Joe Zee, Stefano Tonchi, Cathy Horyn, Carla Sozzani and Jefferson Hack, amongst the 100 top editors in attendance — Mr. Ford’s film may have proven that in the internet age, one thing that people crave even more than immediacy is a feeling of intimacy.

3. Here Comes The Beauty Pack by Chanel

Peter Philip, Chanel’s terrifically talented global creative director for makeup, conceived this fabulously fun animation featuring robots made of Chanel’s iconic packaging. Released to coincide with the launch of the brand’s latest beauty line and drive interest around Chanel Makeup Confidential, a new website featuring exclusive video content, backstage beauty looks from Chanel shows and how-to guides, the video was a runaway success that spread like wildfire across thousands of fashion blogs.

4. Gareth Pugh Pitti 2011

Gareth Pugh made his Italian fashion debut at Pitti Immagine with a visual tour de force by Ruth Hogben. Projected on the ceiling of the 14th-century Orsanmichele church in Florence, the film perfectly complemented a collection that was inspired by Christian iconography and Florentine opulence. But the overall communication transcended reference, colliding the ancient and the hyper-modern to form one powerful vision. With immaculate styling by Katie Shillingford and a dramatic soundtrack by Matthew Stone, this was a fashion film that verged on religious experience.

5. Seven Henrietta Street by Kate Spade New York

Shot by music video director Kinga Burza in a Georgian townhouse in Covent Garden and featuring English actress Anna Brewster and a soundtrack by the disarming chanteuse and MySpace phenomenon SoKo, this film beautifully tells the story of the Kate Spade girl — and brand. Unconventional, curious and imaginative, she “laughs out loud, sings off key and believes in taking chances,” says a text that accompanies the film on the brand’s official YouTube channel.

6. Anatomy of Change for House of Mugler Menswear

House of Mugler creative director Nicola Formichetti launched a captivating web film to build online anticipation and post-show buzz around the creative director’s debut for the brand, using a powerful trinity of fashion, film and music (supplied by Formichetti’s friend and creative co-conspirator Lady Gaga) to transform both his menswear and womenswear runway outings into real-time fashion entertainment. We think integrating the film into the show (a version of the film appeared as a backdrop to the catwalk, while the online edit featured video from the runway) was a smart move, striking a chord with a broader public, but also helping to extend the show’s impact online, giving  fans of Lady Gaga and Mugler a piece of digital content they quickly shared with their friends and followers, carrying Mugler’s new image across the internet.

7. Vanessa Bruno “Miracle”

Directed by Stephanie di Giust, this fantastical film beautifully communicates the colour and prints of Vanessa Bruno’s Spring collection. Featuring actresses Lou Doillon (the brand’s muse) and Jessica Joffe on a mysterious island, the film has a impetuous, tribal tempo that brings new energy to a brand that’s better known for its gentle romanticism. Indeed, the clashing soundtrack, reality-defying camera effects and cascade of colours make this film feel like a rite of liberation.

8. Spying on Kate Moss

Released in early January on NOWNESS, we thought this surreal and charming video of Kate Moss, shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin on the set of the Fall 2010 Balmain campaign, was a refreshing take on the traditionally dull behind-the-scenes video. We especially love the soulful Antony and the Johnsons soundtrack and the “half horror, half Disney” animations by Jo Ratcliffe.

9. Miu Miu “The Powder Room”

The first installment of “The Miu Miu Women’s Tales,” a series commissioned by the Italian brand to celebrate female directors and “explore the feminine love affair with Miu Miu,” this short film by Zoe Cassavetes revolves around the ritual of the power room. Starring redheaded beauty Audrey Marney and set at London’s Claridges Hotel, the film has a visually lush and dreamy quality that nicely shows off this season’s colourful Miu Miu dresses. The Power Room will soon be followed by a new Miu Miu film from another female director, so stay tuned.

10. Net-a-Porter Bag Guide

While not a new concept, Net-a-Porter’s “Bag Guide” uses the sounds of zips and clasps to terrific effect in this fun ode to the season’s hottest arm candy. With the recently launched Net-a-Porter TV, streaming online and on Google TV, we’re looking forward to more fashion videos from this pioneer of shopable content.

Did we miss anything? Which fashion films captured your imagination this season? Let the BoF community know which films you liked best.

Tom Ford’s Private Spring ’11 Show (Grazia Daily)
“If there’s one man who knows how to tantalize an audience, it’s Mr Tom Ford. Because, as a New Year gift, the designer has bestowed upon us super-glossy footage of his highly-secretive, high-security showcase four months after it took place.”

Regulator to weigh Hermès buyout waiver (Reuters)
“France’s stock market regulator will examine Hermès request for a waiver on buying out minority shareholders on Thursday as the luxury goods maker tries to fend off a takeover from rival LVMH, according to a person familiar with the matter.”

7 Stellar Examples of Branded Content from the Fashion Industry (Mashable)
“From online blogzines to Tumblr-powered micro sites, branded content is quickly  becoming a cost effective, long-term online marketing strategy that the fashion industry will continue to utilize as brands and retailers look for new, innovative ways to connect with customers online.”

Rei Kawakubo thinks inspiration is hard to find (Vogue UK)
“Rei Kawakubo says finding new inspiration is growing more and more challenging the longer she is in fashion – and she’s worried that today’s crop of designer talent don’t have what it takes to succeed her.”

Just Have Less: Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier (New Yorker)
“Tomas Maier, the head designer of the Italian fashion label Bottega Veneta, is one of those people who wants to erase every fault in their range of sight.”

L'Wren Scott at Barneys | Source: Barneys

Will Top Firings Change Barneys’ Cool? (On the Runway)
“Increasing Barneys’ profitability was a prime objective… The recession forced retailers to become leaner and more competitive, in particular with online sales, and that urgency will be critical to Barneys’ cool.”

Moncler fights against fakes (Fashion United)
“The Italian Fashion Chamber is joining Moncler and also stepping up against fakes… fighting the collateral damages caused by the creation of a black market, which hits tax payers, companies, and puts jobs at risk.”

Gilt Groupe’s Full-Price Men’s Site Slated to Launch in July (NY Fashion)
“Gilt Groupe realizes that men, who approach shopping with the utmost effort to get in, get out, and get on with life rather than dig and dig for a great find to brag about later, will just as easily pay full prices as sale prices.”

Yoox to open new online stores in China in 2011 (Reuters)
“Italian online fashion retailer Yoox is planning to bring some of the most exclusive fashion brands to China next year, tapping into the demand for luxury goods of the world’s largest online population.”

Tom Ford’s catwalk pictures hit the web (Telegraph)
“Tickets were like gold dust and the anticipation sent shivers through New York Fashion Week in September. Tom Ford was back – but on his own terms. Mr Sexsational’s first women’s wear collection since leaving Gucii and Yves Saint Laurent was unveiled.”

The New Creative Establishment | Source: INDUSTRIE Magazine

LONDON, United Kingdom — Today, The Business of Fashion brings you an exclusive preview of The New Creative Establishment, a list of the 50 most influential and inspirational creatives working in fashion today, developed by our friends at INDUSTRIE magazine for their second issue which comes out later this month and was inspired by a much-watched list with a similar name published by Vanity Fair called ‘The New Establishment’.

Ever since the widely-read debut issue of INDUSTRIE hit the stands last May, editors Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson have been carefully creating their list which they say is a “celebration of creativity in fashion.” After the first draft of the list was developed, they sought feedback from fashion insiders and peers, and re-iterated the list several times. The emphasis is on the word ‘new’ as there are obviously some very important longtime names who continue to wield great influence who are not on the list. In the end, “those listed were selected not only for their creative faculties/creative contribution to fashion today but also because of the wider impact their work has had on fashion business, the social and other creative industries.”

So, without further ado, here is The New Creative Establishment from INDUSTRIE magazine. What are your thoughts and opinions? Who deserves to be on the list? Is anyone missing? And what do you think of fashion power lists in general?

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01. MERT ALAS AND MARCUS PIGGOT | Photographers

Mert and Marcus | Source: American Vogue

It’s the nature of the industry that only the very best photographers get to shoot for the most influential magazines and most important campaigns. But when it comes to working at the highest end of the business, none can match the sheer scale of Mert and Marcus’s output right now. Interview, Vogue, Love, W, Gucci, Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Bulgari, Armani, Miu Miu, CK Jeans, Chanel, Valentino… And because of the extent of their influence within the industry, they can make or break the creatives they choose to work with: the models, the stylists, the hair and make-up – even the designers. Alas owns a majority stake in the company of Turkish designer Hakaan, whose recent collection at Paris Fashion Week after scooping up the ANDAM award, saw Naomi Campbell and Eva Herzigova on the front row and Daria, Natalia, Mariacarla, Sasha and Anja on the runway. All proof of the magic touch wielded by this duo, the latest names to secure a place within fashion photography’s all-time elite.

Further reading: The New Yorker
Web: www.mertandmarcus.com

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02. PHOEBE PHILO | Creative Director of Céline

Phoebe Philo by David Sims | Source: French Vogue

After working wonders at Chloé, Phoebe Philo’s arrival at Céline two years ago heralded the most significant revamp of a label since Tom Ford at Gucci. After several years in the wilderness post-Kors, Céline was finally back on track as Philo forged a new aesthetic for contemporary women, quietly and cleverly trimming back while the rest of the industry was blowing up big.

Meanwhile her mood books give us a tantalising glimpse of her creative process, and her ad campaigns take the radical step of dispensing with models and celebs to close up on the clothes. Most importantly of all, she has been namechecked by Kanye West in ‘Dark Fantasy’ — surely there can be no greater marker of one’s cultural relevance, and proof positive that she’s even mightier than the house she’s heading.

Further reading: The Financial Times
Web: www.celine.com

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03. NICOLAS GHESQIERE | Creative Director of Balenciaga

Nicolas Ghesquiere by Thibault Montamat | Source: W Magazine

Not exactly news, we know. But season after season his collections remain among the most creative and surprising of any Paris house, continuing to push the boundaries of modernism and making clever look sexy. After 13 years of brilliance this consistent, anyone else would be getting boring by now. What’s his secret?

Further reading: Interview Magazine
Web: www.balenciaga.com

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04. CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS | Fashion School

Central St Martins at Kings Cross in 2011 | Source: Central St Martins

Just look at who went there (even if not all of them made it to graduation): Stella McCartney, Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen, Hamish Bowles, John Galliano, Phoebe Philo, Katie Grand, Christopher Kane, Riccardo Tisci, Gareth Pugh, Giles Deacon… London’s Central St Martins School of Art and Design is the educational establishment the industry turns to for new talent and fresh ideas. Truly fashion’s greatest powerhouse.

Further reading: The Observer
Web: www.csm.arts.ac.uk

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05. MIUCCIA PRADA | Designer of Prada

Miuccia Prada | Photo: Guido Harari

For the unparalleled way she manages to balance creativity and commerciality. For being so recognisably Prada regardless of whether she’s pushing flowery romanticism, strict minimalism or rainbow-coloured optimism.

For the Prada Foundation. For her commitment to radical architecture. For being so clever and grown-up while taking way more risks than the youngsters. For making herself synonymous with fashion in mainstream culture thanks to being the first choice of fashion editors: would anyone have believed The Devil Wears Gucci?

Further reading: Wall Street Journal
Web: Prada.com

Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2011 | Source: Vogue.com

Mr. Ford Returns (Vogue.com)
“[Tom Ford] is doing things differently this time. He objects to the way the Internet eats up fashion images before the clothes can be bought. He despises sections of the press. Private and formal are terms he favors now. And he’d rather people didn’t ‘Tom’ him anymore. At 49, he lets it be known he prefers “’Mr. Ford.’”

Google targets fashion market (Guardian)
“Not content to revolutionise online search and email, Google is preparing to enter the fashion business… The attraction is obvious: with conservatively estimated revenues of $500bn (£310bn) worldwide making it the fourth largest industry globally.

Burberry H1 profit tops forecasts on better margins (Reuters)
“British luxury goods group Burberry beat forecasts with a 49 percent jump in first-half profit as fewer markdowns and better management of stock combined with an already-reported rise in sales.”

Billy Reid Named CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Winner (WWD)
“A new crop of American design talent has been crowned. Billy Reid is this year’s winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, taking home an award of $300,000 and a trophy of a bronze swan by Rachel Feinstein.”

Asian Models Are ‘Redefining Traditional Concepts of Beauty’ (The Cut)
“December’s American Vogue features eight Asian models who are, according to the magazine, ‘redefining traditional concepts of beauty.’ With Asia’s significance to luxury brands becoming increasingly visible, it seems only natural for Asian faces to become more prominent.”

Tom Ford by Terry Richardson | Source: Tom Ford

Glamorously, Tom Ford Is Back (NY Times)
“Explaining why he didn’t allow pictures, Mr. Ford said that fashion had become overexposed in recent years… ‘I want fashion to be fun again… You couldn’t wait to get the clothes and put them on, and I think we’ve lost that.’”

Luxury-Goods Firms Turn Up Volume on Value (WSJ)
“Luxury-goods retailers are coming to grips with the reality that ‘aspirational’ shoppers, who blew open the high-end market by stretching their budgets during the boom, aren’t coming back any time soon.”

Turning Playgrounds into Runways (Bloomberg)
“Dressing their kids in designer gear is a guilt-free way for fashion-focused parents to indulge their own penchant for following trends… It makes them feel good.”

Facebook adds ‘social context’ ad metrics (Biz Report)
“Facebook advertisers are being given more insight into the effectiveness of their campaigns. The social network has introduced new metrics focusing on the ‘social context’ of ads.”

New York Fashion Week | The Céline Factor (T Magazine)
“How much of the Céline designer Phoebe Philo’s tailored conceptualism, her hand with stripped-back superhot sportswear, would find its way into American clothes remained to be seen.”

Aldo’s global footprint (Globe and Mail)
“Canadian shoppers are familiar with Aldo shoes. But few realize that this Montreal-based retailer has quietly built an empire that spans 1,500 stores in 55 countries.”

Vera Wang’s Idea of Empire: Marry High, Low, In Between (WSJ)
“Ms. Wang… is pursuing a three-tiered retail strategy of selling through luxury, midpriced and discount stores. A growing number of designers… are trying to deploy similar strategies as economic worries linger.”

Lululemon Grows Fast on a Slim Budget (WSJ)
“Lululemon belongs to an emerging class of retailers focused primarily on designing, making and selling athletic wear to women—and grabbing growing shares of the estimated $15 billion market for women’s fitness attire.”

Tom Ford’s Very Small, Glamorous Show (On the Runway)
“When you’re Tom Ford, and you’ve been away from women’s fashion for six years, more than likely you’ve thought a great deal about your return, perhaps even plotted it down to the last buttonhole.”

Thierry Mugler Appoints New Creative Director (Marie Claire)
“Lady Gaga’s stylist, Nicola Formichetti, has been appointed the new Creative Director of Thierry Mugler… Formichetti was chosen for the role because he represents a new direction in French fashion.”

Cartier Panther | Source: Cartier

Richemont reveals recovery in demand (FT)
“Richemont, the world’s second-biggest luxury goods group, on Monday reinforced signs of a recovery in demand for expensive watches, jewellery and accessories with Christmas sales well ahead of expectations.”

Hopes for 2010 fashion recovery at Milan menswear (Reuters)
“Many executives and designers at Milan’s menswear shows said they were looking ahead with guarded optimism. ‘We are seeing positive signals. The [sales] haemorrhage seen at the end of 2008 and in the first half of 2009 has stopped,’ said Gianluca Brozzetti, chief executive of fashion house Roberto Cavalli.”

It’s 50 percent off…Well, maybe 35 percent (WSJ)
“Restricted shopping Web sites—which pitch steep markdowns on designer goods to its members for brief time periods—are soaring, growing by more than 400% last year … But there are complaints that some of these sites… are relying on an old sleight-of-hand: inflating retail prices to make their discounts larger than they really are.”

Russian appetite for bling put to the test (FT)
“As Russia’s oligarchs flirted with bankruptcy following the collapse of the stock market in 2008-2009, gallery owners, fashion labels, super-yacht brokers and Swiss watchmakers all held their breath.”

Tom Ford: Immaculate Conception (Telegraph)
“Tom Ford, Gucci saviour and one-man superbrand, has written, produced and directed his first film. Already an Oscar frontrunner, if A Single Man can be criticised for anything it is for being too beautiful – music to the ears of fashion’s most fabulous perfectionist.”