Asian impact in Paris, Currency boost, British menswear, Ungaro unravels, Kim Jones Q&A

L-R Mugler, Issey Miyake, 3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2012 | Source: Style.com

Asian Designers Make an Impact in Paris (IHT) “Asian designers, whether home based or in the fashion diaspora, are making an impact in the opening days of the Paris men’s 2012 season. Phillip Lim, the Cambodian-American designer based in New York, was smart to come to Paris to show a 3.1 Phillip Lim collection that was simple but laced with the conceptual.” European Luxury-Goods Stocks May Benefit From Weaker Currencies

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Giles’ Ungaro debut, New content kings, Mobile luxury, As seen on screen, Jefferson Hack interviews Gareth Pugh

Ungaro Spring/Summer 2011 | Source: Style.com

Giles Deacon’s Ungaro debut (Independent) “Deacon, who became creative director of this grand French fashion house in spring this year, said he wanted to take it back to its distinctly French roots – and he has done just that.” Is this the future of media? (Independent) “Many companies have, in recent years, moved into the customer publishing sector, distributing their own glossy magazines to their client

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Ungaro’s fall, Mark Lee confirmed Barneys CEO, Social statements, Western fits for Levi’s China, Tansky’s legacy

Emanuel Ungaro fitting a model | Source: NY Times

The Fall of the House of Ungaro (NY Times) “Ungaro was losing roughly $15 million a year, and [the Ferragamos] signaled to their bankers to look for a buyer. Abdullah was the only serious buyer who turned up. That was in 2005, and as you probably guessed, he had no experience in fashion.” Barneys Appoints New CEO (Market Watch) “Barneys New York, the luxury retailer, with the support of its shareholder Istithmar

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Burton takes reins at McQueen, Gaultier exits Hermès, Theyskens for Theory, Vuitton ads banned, Giles talks Ungaro

Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen A/W 2010 | Sources: Telegraph, Style.com

Sarah Burton confirmed as Creative Director at Alexander McQueen (Telegraph) “A statement from Alexander McQueen and its ‘parent’ company, Gucci Group, announced that Burton will supervise the creative direction and development of all collections of the brand going forwards.” New Designer at Hermès (NY Times) “After seven years, Jean Paul Gaultier is giving up his ready-to-wear duties at Hermès and will be

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Giles officially at Ungaro, Tommy weighs in at PVH, Prada boosted by retail, Rethinking the 70s, Gaga’s fashion effect

Calvin Klein Collection Summer 2010 | Source: PVH

Giles Deacon confirmed as Creative Director of Ungaro (Vogue.com) “The new appointment is bound to bring a close to an unsettled atmosphere at the French house that has reigned since Emanuel Ungaro himself retired in 2004.” (RSS and email subscribers: watch exclusive BoF interview here) Phillips-Van Heusen beats, but Tommy weighs in Q2 (Reuters) “Analysts had been expecting a bigger boost from Tommy Hilfiger, the

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Coach goes global, High Street retail rebounds, Archs out from Ungaro, ASOS’ lofty goals, Isabel Marant’s SoHo chic

Burberry SS 2010 | Source: Burberry

Coach Doubles Dividend as Earnings Top Estimates (BusinessWeek) “Coach Inc., the largest U.S. maker of luxury leather handbags, doubled its dividend and announced an expansion in Europe … The company said it planned to open at least 14 stores in France … with Printemps, the French department-store chain. Coach has also agreed in principle to create a joint venture with Hackett Ltd. to open stores in the U.K.,

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Erdem wins BFC Fashion Fund, Chinese brands, Harrods not for sale, Ungaro saga continues, British invasion

Shanghai Tang | Source: Butterboom

Flower dressing: why Erdem is a winner (Times) “Meet Erdem, candidate for the title of World’s Most Modest Designer — no, really — and, I can reveal today, winner of the first British Fashion Council andVogue Designer Fund… In the end, we decided that Erdem had it all: creativity, the potential for longevity and a well-thought-out strategy.” The rise of Chinese luxury brands (CNN) “Mainland Chinese tourists

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Esprit’s China push, Neiman trades down, Moufarrige out, Madonna for D&G, Dsquared2’s humble roots

Esprit Fall/Holiday 2009 | Source: Esprit

HK’s Esprit buys $500M JV stake in China push (Reuters) “Hong Kong fashion retailer Esprit Holdings is buying out its partner in a Chinese retail joint venture for HK$3.88 billion ($500 million) as part of a drive to expand in the world’s third largest economy. The deal will see Esprit take full control of the 10-year-old venture, while China Resources Enterprise, which is selling the stake, will focus on its core

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Cortazar and Ungaro part ways, Amazon buys Zappos, Italian luxury stable, Rio in Tokyo

Esteban Cortazar, courtesy of Bryanboy

Cortazar Leaves Ungaro (Vogue.com) “Following a lengthy period of less than emphatic denials and weak shows of unity between Ungaro and the label’s ceo, Mounir Moufarrige, the decision has been taken to dissolve the relationship, WWD reports. It is expected to be formerly announced later today that the separation is by mutual agreement.” Amazon to buy Zappos (Drapers) “Amazon is set to buy US footwear

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Rumour Mill | Karl Lagerfeld to leave Chanel?

Karl who?

PARIS, France – We don’t actively engage in the rumour mill here on BoF, but when the whispers involve Karl Lagerfeld, Olivier Theyskens and Alber Elbaz in a Lanvin and Chanel merry-go-round, it seems worthwhile to engage in a bit of Friday afternoon fashion speculation. Today, Diane Pernet has published a bombshell post outlining this scenario: “This is not a fact until you officially read it somewhere else but rumour

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The Business of Fashion | Talks to Vogue Korea

It's turning out to be fashion magazine week on the Business of Fashion. A couple of months ago, Dominic Sohn, a newly appointed Fashion Editor at Vogue Korea, contacted me to get some thoughts on the revolving doors for designers at major fashion houses. This was before Lars Nilsson was turfed from Gianfranco Ferre (just days before his first runway show) only to be replaced by Tomasso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi of 6267 and before Paulo Melim Andersson was sent packing after three seasons at Chloe, making way for Hannah MacGibbon. Dominic's questions were timely indeed. Excerpts from the interview have just been published in an article in the May 2008 edition of Vogue Korea, along with the reflections of…

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Paris Fashion Week | The brand revivalists

Amongst the most anticipated collections this season in Paris were the debuts by new designers at the helm of established brands -- Stuart Vevers for Loewe, Estaban Cortazar for Ungaro, and Alessandra Facchinetti  for Valentino. Each brand has faced its own unique challenges in finding the right creative spark to sustain brand awareness and business performance. While many fashion companies are practically clambouring to establish a presence and gain legitimacy in the lucrative leather goods category, Loewe has a long, rich history in beautifully-crafted leather goods, including a strong link to the  Spanish Royal family. But despite its enviable heritage and high quality, Loewe has had a hard time breaking into the younger fashion mainstream. Enter Stuart Vevers, who has…

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Ungaro: Esteban Cortazar revisited

Yesterday's post on Esteban Cortazar's appointment at Ungaro garnered quite the response from all sides of the issue. Not only was our inbox quickly filled with emails, several comments also came through, including one that could be from someone connected to Ungaro, accusing Cathy Horyn of censorship. Fashion Inc also posted a response on her blog in defense of Mr. Moufarrige, given his reasonably short tenure at Ungaro and the fact that he actually didn't hire 3 previous designers at Ungaro (though this article seems to suggest that he was already very much in the picture when Dundas was hired at the end of 2005). We normally don't respond to emails, comments and other blogs directly in a new post,…

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