MAC’s crusade, Cucinelli IPO dampens profit, Tod’s profit up, Vionnet disruption, Singer out

Brunello Cucinelli Autumn/Winter 2012 | Source: Brunello Cucinelli

How a cosmetics company built brand equity by taking on the fashion world’s biggest killer (Financial Post) “Last year, Canadian-founded MAC Cosmetics raised $38-million through its MAC AIDS Fund to help combat the spread of AIDS. The success of the 18-year-old campaign predates the cause-marketing boom that has stormed the corporate world and yet continues to attract celebrity spokespeople.” IPO Costs Dampen Profits at

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CEO Talk | Matteo Marzotto, Chairman, Vionnet

Matteo Marzotto, CEO Vionnet | Source: BoF

MILAN, Italy — When Matteo Marzotto, stylish scion of the Italian fashion dynasty announced in February 2009 that he was acquiring the storied House of Vionnet, owned at the time by Arnaud de Lummen who had already had a go at reviving the sleeping beauty himself, the response from the fashion industry was simultaneously one of intrigue and distaste. On the one hand, a swarm of journalists and buyers packed into Marzotto’s Milan

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Europe embraces outlets, Vionnet exhibition, Death of the Sari, Suits back in Milan, Agnes b. doubles China stores

Berlin designer outlet | Source: McArthurGlen

Designer Outlets Come Into Fashion Across the Continent (WSJ) “The Berlin Designer Outlet Center, built to resemble a German country village, is the latest outlet to open in Europe and further evidence that in a broader retail industry plagued by tenant insolvencies and declining consumer spending, the outlet segment is still expanding.” Vionnet exhibition opens in Paris (Telegraph) “Vionnet, dubbed the

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Friday Column | Failure to re-launch?

Matteo Marzotto, courtesy of The Sartorialist

LONDON, United Kingdom — The recent news that Matteo Marzotto and Gianni Castiglioni have bought the Vionnet brand reminded me of the old saying about second marriages: a triumph of hope over experience. Arnaud de Lummen has already had a hand at reviving Vionnet, the classic couture brand, over the past few years, but has now moved on to other projects. (You can read all about it in BoF’s exclusive interview with de Lummen.)

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Paris Fashion Week: The resurrection of Vionnet

In the 1920's, a young French designer named Madeleine Vionnet created a virtual tornado in the in the fashion industry when she developed the bias cut. By cutting fabric against the grain, she enabled it to cling, drape and give in a way that was flattering to the body. Vionnet went on to build an enviable and innovative business, dressing clients such as Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn, and Greta Garbo. The house was shut down during the Second World War, but since then, Vionnet's technique has been widely used by numerous acclaimed designers, including Azzedine Alaia and John Galliano, who has made the bias-cut dress one of his own signatures. Now, almost 70 years after it faded into oblivion, the…

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