Remembering Dumas, Vuitton tops ranking, At the Met Ball, Up close with Stefano Pilati, Jason Wu collector

Carré Hermès | Source: Hermès

Jean-Louis Dumas, Chief of Hermès, Dies at 72 (NY Times) “Jean-Louis Dumas, who revived the flagging fortunes of Hermès in the late 1970s and in his nearly 30 years as the company’s chief executive transformed it into one of the world’s most successful luxury brands, died Saturday at his home in Paris.” Louis Vuitton Tops Hermes, Gucci as Most Valuable Luxury Brand (Bloomberg) “Louis Vuitton, the French fashion

…Continue Reading

Daily Digest | Phoebe Philo’s third act, Bottega Veneta grows up, Liberty to sell freehold, Vogue’s new app, Milan’s directions

Phoebe Philo by Solve Sundsbo | Source: NY Times

Phoebe Philo’s Third Act (T Magazine) “A designer’s debut at a new label is always exciting, especially if it is backed by a luxury colossus, as Céline is by LVMH. But this particular designer is the fashion superstar who made Chloé one of the hottest labels of the early 2000s.” Bottega Veneta Grows Up (WSJ) “As Bottega pursues its strategy to grow from a niche player into a global brand, it has been conducting a

…Continue Reading

Jaime Perlman Tests the Future of Fashion Editorial

Jaime Perlman | Source: Jaime Perlman

LONDON, United Kingdom — “Everyone knows that editorial content is going to change,” says Jaime Perlman, Art Director of British Vogue. As web magazines, fashion films and a new generation of bloggers continue to capture the collective imagination of industry insiders and end consumers alike, there’s no doubt that fashion media is embracing digital technology like never before and becoming more immediate, transparent and

…Continue Reading

Hugo Boss down, UK retail fights back, Lulu’s Asian expansion, Prada shortens layoffs, BFC Vogue Fashion Fund

Hugo Menswear | Source: Hugo Boss

Hugo Boss European sales fall 13 percent (Drapers) “Total European sales at Hugo Boss fell 13% to €852m (£766m) over the first nine months of 2009 as the brand and retailer was hit by a turbulent northern European and Spanish trading climate.” M&S and Next fight back while Primark shines (Reuters) “Updates from three of Britain’s biggest clothing retailers should shed a little more light next week on

…Continue Reading

BoF Recommends | The September Issue

http://www.youtube.com/v/S9-bAwz9uWk&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"

LONDON, United Kingdom — Bootlegged copies of The September Issue have been circulating amongst fashion insiders in London. The new 90 minute documentary featuring Anna Wintour of American Vogue is not due to hit U.S. and U.K. theatres until later this Summer, but it is already providing much fodder for industry conversations over mid-Summer cocktails and pre-collection appointments. The film revolves around the development,

…Continue Reading

Alexandra Shulman | On the future of fashion magazines

Alexandra Shulman | Photo: David Wise

LONDON, United Kingdom — When BoF’s Vikram Alexei Kansara explored the interactive future of fashion magazines about a month ago, a lively debate ensued in the comments section of the post and in emails with our readers. It is one of the most read articles on BoF thus far in 2009. Clearly this is a topic on everyone’s minds, not only in the fashion media, but also print media more generally. Major newspapers like The

…Continue Reading

Carine Roitfeld | Revealed to be real

http://www.youtube.com/v/ET3QW7pz32w&hl=en&fs=1"

PARIS, France — My favourite part of the recently released documentary on Carine Roitfeld is when the French Vogue editrix describes the level and degree of preparation for  a shoot with photographer Patrick Demarchelier. The shoot takes place in an agricultural show, contrasting haute couture with farm animals. As she explains, every shot had been imagined in her mind beforehand and everything had been meticulously planned to keep

…Continue Reading

Fashion 2.0 | An Interactive Future for Fashion Magazines

Courtesy of Vogue (US)

NEW YORK, United States — Susan Sontag once said “fashion is fashion photography.” She might have added: “and fashion photography is the magazine.” Indeed, it’s hard to overestimate the importance of magazines to the fashion system. More than the runway, the boutique, the boulevard, or the internet, glossy physical magazines are still the primary place where fashion lives and the most powerful pathway

…Continue Reading

Vogue has become stale, Trends in 2008, Morgan goes bankrupt, Minority stakes

Vogue Magazine, photo courtesy of the New York Times.

What’s wrong with Vogue? (New York Times) “Vogue has become stale and predictable, and it has happened in spite of some of the best editors, writers and photographers in the business.” Lunchtime Snap: The Highs and Lows of 2008 Runway Fashions (WSJ) The Wall Street Journal breaks down the most ubiquitous trends of 2008. French fashion retailer Morgan files for bankruptcy (Times UK) Morgan, the French retailer that

…Continue Reading

Q&A | Dolly Jones, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue.co.uk

LONDON, United Kingdom - Back in 1995, Netscape Navigator was the dominant web-browser with a market share of more than 90%.  People were talking about the launch of Altavista, an Internet search engine that acheived 300,000 hits on its very first day. On the fashion end of things, the New York Times' Amy Spindler was tearing apart Donna Karan and raving about Mark Eisen in her review of the New York A/W 1995 collections. Today, Netscape's share of web-browser use is less than 1% and Altavista is a relic. Donna Karan still puts out collections in New York, but she scarcely merits a full length review in Cathy Horyn's reviews. Nobody even remembers Mark Eisen. In the worlds of Fashion…

…Continue Reading

Top 10 Online Fashion Magazines

LONDON, United Kingdom - While taking a whirl around the Internet these days you’re bound to bump into an online fashion magazine – or ten. Everyone from Richard Mortimer of Boombox fame to Net-a-Porter’s Natalie Massenet is getting in on the action – and looking for ways to monetise it. For a long time, content developers had a hard time creating a distinction between simple websites and bonafide online magazines. But,

…Continue Reading

The Business of Fashion | Talks to Vogue Korea

It's turning out to be fashion magazine week on the Business of Fashion. A couple of months ago, Dominic Sohn, a newly appointed Fashion Editor at Vogue Korea, contacted me to get some thoughts on the revolving doors for designers at major fashion houses. This was before Lars Nilsson was turfed from Gianfranco Ferre (just days before his first runway show) only to be replaced by Tomasso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi of 6267 and before Paulo Melim Andersson was sent packing after three seasons at Chloe, making way for Hannah MacGibbon. Dominic's questions were timely indeed. Excerpts from the interview have just been published in an article in the May 2008 edition of Vogue Korea, along with the reflections of…

…Continue Reading

Fashion Magazines | Balancing advertising and editorial

The other day I nipped out to grab a coffee in London's Hanover Square. As I was waiting, who should walk in but Alexandra Shulman, the Editor-in-Chief of British Vogue. There was no entourage or chauffeur or huge sunglasses. Rather, she very normally ordered her skinny cappuccino (without assistance and without attitude) and waited like the rest of us to be served. It got me to thinking that (thankfully) some people in the fashion industry are completely normal (despite the caricatures that may be painted of them in the Press), and it also got me thinking about the business of magazines -- fashion magazines in particular. It turns out Ms. Shulman has been quite the business woman during her respected…

…Continue Reading