Loulou de la Falaise 1948 — 2011 | Source: Luxe Magazine

Debra Scherer remembers Yves Saint Laurent muse Loulou de la Falaise — once called “the quintessential Rive Gauche haute bohémienne” by The New Yorker — who passed away on Saturday at the age of 63 in Paris.

PARIS, France — The last time I saw Loulou de la Falaise was on American television. Yet, as a muse to the legendary Yves Saint Laurent, she will always be remembered as one of the most influential women from a magical time in Paris fashion. She had the ability to take a printed chiffon blouse and a khaki A-line skirt, add a twist of unexpected colour, a scarf tied around her head, arms stacked with beautiful bangles… et voila!

There was Betty Catroux; there was Marina Schiano; there was Catherine Denueve; each one epitomised the Saint Laurent aesthetic. But at its core, it was all about the remarkable ease with which Loulou de la Falaise could put together Saint Laurent’s pieces without it ever seeming like a ‘total look.’

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Raf Simons | Source: Hypebeast

PARIS, France — We usually leave ‘breaking news’ stories to the wire services and Twitter, and don’t like to propagate unsubstantiated rumours, but sometimes the news is so big, and the source of the rumour is so credible, that it warrants immediate comment and analysis from BoF.

In her rapturous review of Raf Simons’ Spring/Summer 2012 collection for Jil Sander, the highly-respected fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune, Suzy Menkes, dropped the bombshell news that unnamed sources in Paris say that Raf Simons will replace Stefano Pilati as Creative Director of storied couture house, Yves Saint Laurent. When Menkes’ IHT colleague Jessica Michault announced the news on Twitter, the fashion Twittersphere was sent into overdrive.

Menkes seems supportive of the supposed move, saying that “if Raf Simons ultimately takes over the helm at Yves Saint Laurent — as those familiar with the situation in Paris suggest — the designer will have found a sweet spot for his meticulous modernism.”

But there was no mention of the timing of the supposed transition, and while Ms. Menkes’ sources are amongst the best in the industry and her reporting is of the highest integrity, the news is yet to be officially confirmed by any of the parties concerned, so this news must still be treated as conjecture.

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Karl Lagerfeld for Impulse | Source: Catwalk Queen

Dowdy Department Stores Start Looking Cool Again (WSJ)
“The sector, long derided for dowdy merchandise, maze-like stores and crumbling facades, is making a comeback. Macy’s Inc., Nordstrom Inc. and Kohl’s Corp. are posting solid sales gains even as consumers remain cautious and manufacturing costs rise—and they are poised to continue the streak this fall.”

Lagerfeld for the Masses, Again (On the Runway)
“Macy’s unveiled its newest fast-fashion collection, this one designed by Karl Lagerfeld… What struck me about the designs, actually Mr. Lagerfeld’s second endeavor into the mainstream market, after his pioneering collection for H&M in 2004, was how much more sophisticated they seemed.”

Chinese, U.S. demand helps boost Adidas sales forecast (Reuters)
“Adidas, the world’s second-largest sports clothing company, raised its year forecasts again on Thursday after seeing a 5 percent rise in sales in the second quarter thanks to strong demand in China… The German group said on Thursday it now expects sales this year to be up 10 percent and earnings per share up by 15 percent, with demand in North America also remaining strong.”

Retail Sales Rise at Expensive Stores but Are Mixed Elsewhere (NY Times)
“New data from July shows that the retail economy is locked on two tracks: one for businesses that cater to the well-to-do, and the other for everyone else… While expensive stores turned in strong results, including a startling 15.6 percent increase at Saks Fifth Avenue, almost double what analysts had predicted, middle- and low-end stores were largely dependent on marked-down summer clothes for their increases.”

A Small Victory for Christian Louboutin in the Suit Against Yves Saint Laurent (The Cut)
“A development in the case, which should set a precedent as to whether other luxury shoe labels can safely design shoes with red soles for aesthetic rather than branding reasons, seems to suggest Team Louboutin may have an edge… The judge ruled in Louboutin’s favor on that chart, as well as on other disputed YSL exhibits.”

Miu Miu Autumn/Winter 2011 photographed by Bruce Weber | Source: Miu Miu

Prada Woos Young Chinese With Edgier Sister-Brand (WSJ)
“Aiming to cash in on China’s bulging population of young fashion-lovers, Prada is turning its focus in the Chinese market to its… Sister-brand… Miu Miu has struck a chord with China’s young luxury shoppers… Who… Don’t remember the era in which the brand was overshadowed by the Prada label.”

Global growth drives ASOS sales (FT)
“Online fashion retailer Asos intends to make free global shipping a “permanent” part of its business model, after international sales growth fuelled a 63 per cent jump in sales in the first quarter to £107m… International sales grew 160 per cent… And now make up 57 per cent of overall sales.”

Hugo Boss raises outlook on China, U.S. demand (Reuters)
“German fashion house Hugo Boss raised its outlook for the year, boosted by growing sales in China and the United States…  The group, known for its sharp suits for men, said it now expected 2011 sales to rise by between 15 and 17 percent and underlying earnings to rise by 25 and 30 percent.”

Yves Saint Laurent Defends Its Red Soles Against Christian Louboutin (The Cut)
“Yves Saint Laurent, Inc.’s lawyers issued a… response to Christian Louboutin’s trademark-infringement charges this week, stating first… That no one can prove that YSL’s use of red soles hurt Louboutin’s sales or caused any consumer confusion… They argued that Louboutin never should have gotten a trademark for those red soles.”

In Berlin, Rocking the Fashion Trade Fair (IHT)
“A person stumbling into this spectacle… could easily mistake it for an artsy free-for-all in Berlin… Yet that is precisely what makes Bread & Butter, among the world’s most important urban and street fashion trade fairs… Held this year… It drew 100,000 visitors and 600 brands like Adidas, Diesel and G-Star”

'Read and Shop' on Mr.Porter edited by Jeremy Langmead | Source: Mr.Porter

E-commerce Luring Top Editorial Talent (WWD)
“A new kind of magazine has indeed arrived online and its bringing editors into the sales business. For the last year, fast-growing online retail companies like Gilt and Net-a-porter in the U.K. have been scooping up orphans from the magazine world with the idea that editorial content can help them drive sales.”

Rising raw prices to hurt luxury margins (Reuters)
“Record high prices for raw materials such as gold, silver, diamonds, leather and cashmere will squeeze the margins of luxury goods makers this year because price increases will only absorb part of the hit… supported by a weak U.S. dollar and low interest rates. Other raw materials, such as leather, cotton or cashmere, have become scarce due to high demand from Asia.”

Luxury brands under M&A pressure (Reuters)
“Big luxury goods companies will be pressured to make acquisitions to grow even as stocks of high-end retailers and brands make deals pricey and some targets are reluctant to even listen to offers… So far this year, luxury mergers and acquisitions have doubled the pace set for all of 2010.”

Yves Saint Laurent hit back at Christian Louboutin (Telegraph)
“Yves Saint Laurent have hit back against claims they copied Christian Louboutin’s trademarked red soles, in a $1 million court case which is set to divide the fashion world… ‘Red outsoles are a commonly used ornamental design feature in footwear, dating as far back as the red shoes worn by King Louis XIV in the 1600s.’”

Chronicles of Never (Dazed Digital)
“Since departing from Australian design trio Ksubi, Gareth Moody has turned his attention to developing his own, equally rebellious label, Chronicles of Never… the label echoes the same Ksubi spirit which saw warehouse installations, hundreds of rats let loose onto a catwalk and a boat party where models were instructed to jump overboard.”