Ready-to-Wear Spring 2020
Sacai
8 October 2019 • By Tim Blanks
Chitose Abe’s work has a wilful eroticism that you won’t find anywhere else in Japanese fashion and it was this that ultimately gave her latest collection its groove.
Thom Browne
7 October 2019 • By Tim Blanks
If the collection was ridiculously pretty, it was also pretty ridiculous.
Maison Margiela
The show was John Galliano's most accessible distillation of the manifesto he is shaping around his designs.
Junya Watanabe
The designer's scalpel-sharp dissections made for spectacular reworkings of achingly familiar components.
Miu Miu
3 October 2019 • By Tim Blanks
The Prada show was distinguished by its serene rejection of excess. Miu Miu took a more wayward route, with an improvised DIY quality that was fundamental to the collection.
Stella McCartney
2 October 2019 • By Tim Blanks
A sensuality infused even the more tailored pieces, and even her menswear fell under the spell.
Chanel
1 October 2019 • By Tim Blanks
This collection mightn’t have had the elegance of Virginie Viard’s couture, but it did share its restraint. That suggests a strong, stable future.
People
Designer Pierpaolo Piccioli has reimagined the storied Roman fashion house as an extraordinary hybrid of extravagance and inclusivity, casting black models like Sudanese refugee Adut Akech to bring a modern edge to his couture and send a message to the world.
Alexander McQueen
There have been seasons when Sarah Burton’s allegiance to her past crippled her own relevance. Time has a way of readjusting such perceptions.
Givenchy
30 September 2019 • By Tim Blanks
Clare Waight Keller wanted to play with contrasts, and the payoff would have been the opposites attracting, reconciling. But that didn’t happen here.
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