The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — You say Paco Rabanne and chain mail immediately comes to mind. This is probably why, since the beginning of his tenure, Julien Dossena has cautiously touched on the subject. Wise move, given he was after a reboot. Now that the template of the new Rabanne is firmly set, Dossena threw caution to the wind, embraced metal and it was a blast.
There wasn't only metal mesh on display of course. The other significant half was knit: thick and slouchy, sliced into dancing, asymmetric shapes. It made for a perfect juxtaposition of the organic and the inorganic, the warm and the cold. There was a pervasive air of ease to the whole effort, and an offbeat sense of cozyness. Julien Dossena, just like Paco himself, is a futurist, albeit of a wholly different kind. There is something almost raw and primeval to his work that makes it quite unique.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.