PARIS, France— Reducing the output of a brand — in terms of number of collections per year — is a winning strategy in these product-saturated, visually forgetful times. It is for Acne Studios at least. The Swedish brand decided to merge pre-collection and show collection into a single opus, presented ahead of the season in the couture calendar. Making more with less proved good.
Contrary to previous outings, which sometimes looked like crazy styling exercises and little else, this collection had focus and substance. Creative director Jonny Johansson worked around the idea of the great escape to the country leaving the big city: a choice, he said, that is often made by artists and creatives. Translated into clothing it meant lots of layering, big volumes and a mix of corduroy and moleskins with flowery silks and glittery knits. A bit nostalgic with mud and a sense of travel, with coats and jackets cinched at the waist with ropes. The effect was consistent, if a tad monotonous.
The only thing left to consider is the positioning during couture season. As both an art and a calendar, couture feels dramatically at odds with Acne. Maybe a co-ed show during men's would be even better.