MILAN, Italy — There is an iconic image from Missoni's past, harking back to the sixties. It depicts a series of lurex minidresses, designed for the house by Emmanuelle Khanh. The silhouettes are svelte and incisive; the bodies are healthy and dynamic; models look happy.
The show Missoni staged Sunday in a derelict warehouse at the far end of town, complete with wet concrete floor, was pretty much in that vein, updated for the moment. The centre of the collection was the tube dress, in different stages of layering and un-layering, in every kind of jacquard, leading up to a few skimpy bikinis; metallics and lurex abounded.
It made for a fast outing, with an interesting idea of modularity and Missoni's top-notch take on knitwear. As focused and essential as it was, however, it lacked the spark of joy of that initial image. Too much stress on the layering made it feel a bit forced, burying the beauty of the single pieces.