The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — Junichi Abe, the quiet mastermind behind Kolor, has always relied on an extensive roster of references, which he manages to blend in a subdued style full of little nuances. This season the "around the world in an outfit," attitude was more evident — and at times more literal — than it was in the past. "Kolor is colour — Abe said backstage, matter of factly — I wanted to add an Asian flavour."
Hence the smattering of gold sequins and intricate patterns on sandals and tops, the bursts of bright pinks on jackets and shorts. Madras, on the other end, kept the Indian vibe alive, and stripey knits had a not easily definable but unmistakable ethnic zest. All of this was interspersed with Kolor's trademark mix of soft tailoring, loose volumes and technical details. Overall, this was a focused outing, but the show lacked a dash of lightness: many outfits looked heavy, in spite of airy mood.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.