PARIS, France — Junichi Abe, the quiet mastermind behind Kolor, has always relied on an extensive roster of references, which he manages to blend in a subdued style full of little nuances. This season the "around the world in an outfit," attitude was more evident — and at times more literal — than it was in the past. "Kolor is colour — Abe said backstage, matter of factly — I wanted to add an Asian flavour.”
Hence the smattering of gold sequins and intricate patterns on sandals and tops, the bursts of bright pinks on jackets and shorts. Madras, on the other end, kept the Indian vibe alive, and stripey knits had a not easily definable but unmistakable ethnic zest. All of this was interspersed with Kolor's trademark mix of soft tailoring, loose volumes and technical details. Overall, this was a focused outing, but the show lacked a dash of lightness: many outfits looked heavy, in spite of airy mood.