MILAN, Italy — Arthur Arbesser has a fascination for uniforms, which harks back to his Viennese roots and memories of his family. This explains the gentle strictness and covertly sexy tone of his work. Arbesser also has a fascination for geometry, graphics, colour blocks and everything that sits at the intersection of rigorous thinking and childish expression. This tension between the rational and the irrational creates fascinating possibilities, but so far Arbesser's results have been mixed.
The collection he showed today — very strict, very playful and very kinky, with its flimsy nylons and equestrian booties — was his most reassured so far: conceptual, yet full of interesting pieces such as the knits and the sailor jackets. There's ample room for growth from here onwards.