The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski was after a playful, unexpected take on Hermès with this collection. And unexpected it was: Vanhee's remarkable clarity of intent, her gentle sense of control went completely AWOL this season. Instead, we got something a bit messy — deliberately so — and a little patchy. Colors, prints, patterns and volumes were mixed in haphazard, at times unflattering ways, maybe in an attempt to get a new edge.
There were many problems going on at once here: the styling, for a start, that made the bulky pieces feel even bulkier; the fit of the high-waisted trousers, not exactly faultless; the lack of coherence in the running order. Best in show, a propos, were a bunch of monochromatic looks that worked like reminders of what Vanhee can do so well, but seems at the moment to have completely forgotten.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.