Skip to main content
BoF Logo

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.

At Issey Miyake, a Designer Debut

New designer Satoshi Kondo seems to possess the creativity to re-energise the brand.
Issey Miyake Spring/ Summer 2020 | Source: Courtesy
By
  • Angelo Flaccavento
BoF PROFESSIONAL

PARIS, France — There is a new womenswear designer at Issey Miyake. His name is Satoshi Kondo and he made his debut with a show directed and choreographed by Miyake's long-time collaborator Daniel Ezralow. The extremely long performance, divided into a series of scenes, was as old-fashioned and out of sync with fashion's current language as it was captivating. Trimming it down to a few key moments — the three dresses descending from above on the models were a joy to behold, and so were the models on skateboards in ballooning duster coats — would have helped in delivering the message. But that was a minor misstep: this was a debut and overdoing things is natural.

Kondo, who has been working with Issey-san on projects such as Homme Plissé, has a focused vision of what he wants Miyake to be: a purveyor of happiness delivered through airy, floaty dressing that has dialogues with the body in engaging ways. No abstruse fabric technologies nor silly silhouettes, even though the fabrics were state of the art, as usual. This made for an interesting start.

There is still a residue of tenderness — in terms of image — from the previous designer that needs to be erased, and the woman should probably be put in focus more, but Kondo seems to possess the creative means to do so. Miyake's own powerful futurism keeps being pillaged by other designers of late. It is time for his own brand to possess it again and push it forward.

© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions

More from Fashion Week
Independent show reviews from fashion’s top critics.

What I Learned From Fashion Month

From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.


view more

Subscribe to the BoF Daily Digest

The essential daily round-up of fashion news, analysis, and breaking news alerts.

The Business of Fashion

Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
CONNECT WITH US ON
BoF Professional - How to Turn Data Into Meaningful Customer Connections
© 2024 The Business of Fashion. All rights reserved. For more information read our Terms & Conditions, Privacy Policy, Cookie Policy and Accessibility Statement.
BoF Professional - How to Turn Data Into Meaningful Customer Connections