The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
PARIS, France — There was a palpable melancholy to the Maison Margiela show, and not just because of the bluesy soundtrack and the enchanting location — full of marble busts. The undone quality which permeated everything looked like a reflection on time: its passing, and the effect that has on objects and lives. Hence, outfits looked like they were half finished, or peeling off; snap buttons in place of stitches allowed for shirts to be completely taken apart.
It made for a remarkable outing which also highlighted Margiela's double faced identity at the moment. In fact, while John Galliano has set a wholly new and entirely personal template in the womenswear, the menswear keeps a stronger bond with Martin, the originator. At this point, this must be an intentional business plan, and somehow it is so contradictory it is fascinating, or just puzzling.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.
BoF’s editors pick the best shows of the Autumn/Winter 2024 season.