The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
MILAN, Italy — Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana entitled their collection Tropico Italiano, but it had only to do with the feisty set-up, complete with palm trees and coconut vendors, not with the clothes. After all, the two designers have already found their own tropic, a while ago: Sicily, and in general the south of Italy, with its joyous spirit, burgeoning sensuality and endless melange of everything opulent, excessive and baroque.
The collection was a reiteration of the formula, probably even more feisty. From "
bersagliere
" jackets to womanly dresses, from lingerie styles to jeans to rainbow sequins, there was a lot going on here, probably even too much. A bit of editing would be of great help. Then again, restraint is not a Sicilian quality — as a Sicilian, this writer can testify. Too much is never enough, anyone? The two have certainly no shortage of decorative ideas.
From where aspirational customers are spending to Kering’s challenges and Richemont’s fashion revival, BoF’s editor-in-chief shares key takeaways from conversations with industry insiders in London, Milan and Paris.
BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks and Imran Amed, BoF founder and editor-in-chief, look back at the key moments of fashion month, from Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen to Chemena Kamali’s first collection for Chloé.
Anthony Vaccarello staged a surprise show to launch a collection of gorgeously languid men’s tailoring, writes Tim Blanks.